spock345
Carb Loading
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2016
- Location
- Livermore, CA
Attached are photos of the current state of my B20 head's ports and combustion chambers. What should I look at doing next? Or should I just slap it on the car and send it?
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Everything I've encountered says to not touch the short side or floor on the exhaust port.Throat 87% of valve diameter, bowl 78%, runner 80% would be considered conservative. If you can clean up the bowl and short side radius and get to those numbers easily I'd say that'd be a good place to be at.
Guides stay. Those are in very good shape. My gut tells me the intake isn't half bad but it is always the exhaust on these. There has been some work on the bad choke point just past the seat.Are you replacing the guides?
The above numbers are pretty good. It’s hard to get the exhaust to meet those and be smooth flowing without pulling the guides and shaping the hump. One thing to be careful of is going too far. But there’s a bit of flow that can be made from carving around that exhaust guide.
Oval in what way? Long axis of the oval in line with the port or perpendicular?Intake bowl and throat looks small.
I’d 100% reshare the SSR on the exhaust but don’t lower the floor. The exhaust sucks on all 8v heads. I’ll often make the bowl oval vs round to increase the flow area.
I saw something like this in one of the heads I was testing on. The bowl/throat on exhaust was ovaled/triangle towards the pushrod side, and up, so no outward near the floor, but lots of outward towards the top. Upside down trapezoid at the outlet.Oval in what way? Long axis of the oval in line with the port or perpendicular?
I'll smooth out the SSR and work on the intake bowl and throat.
I'm not really going for anything crazy here, just whatever I can easily knock out while waiting on a new camshaft.
In line with the port. I don't make it too oval on the long side of the turn (if at all), and instead focus all the effort on the SSR side of the seat. This allows for a much better SSR shape vs the sharp angle that's usually there.Oval in what way? Long axis of the oval in line with the port or perpendicular?
I'll smooth out the SSR and work on the intake bowl and throat.
I'm not really going for anything crazy here, just whatever I can easily knock out while waiting on a new camshaft.
I saw something like this in one of the heads I was testing on. The bowl/throat on exhaust was ovaled/triangle towards the pushrod side, and up, so no outward near the floor, but lots of outward towards the top. Upside down trapezoid at the outlet.
Haven’t gotten the flow bench done yet for real numbers, but I liked the shop vac yarn on a stick. Looked pretty straight when running around the valve seat.
So get the smoothest transition possible on the SSR. What does a better bowl shape look like? I'm trying to visualize it.In line with the port. I don't make it too oval on the long side of the turn (if at all), and instead focus all the effort on the SSR side of the seat. This allows for a much better SSR shape vs the sharp angle that's usually there.
In looking at this pic, what is the diameter at the smallest point?Attached are photos of the current state of my B20 head's ports and combustion chambers. What should I look at doing next? Or should I just slap it on the car and send it?
About 35-ish mm in the intake, 28mm on the exhaust.In looking at this pic, what is the diameter at the smallest point?
If using a 42mm valve that would be about the smallest you'd want to go (83% of intake valve diameter). Most of the street stuff I aim for 85-86%. With a carb, maybe there would be more fuel shear with the smaller throat ID? A valve job with 4-5 angles would take that out to ~86-88%.About 35-ish mm in the intake, 28mm on the exhaust.
It had one about 5000 miles ago. That seems to be a little bit of grime.Hold up, does that head have a new valve job?
There's what looks like a section that wasn't cut on the intake side at the top in the pic.
I found the really sharp edge on the short side of the exhaust, I'll put a good amount of my effort there.If using a 42mm valve that would be about the smallest you'd want to go (83% of intake valve diameter). Most of the street stuff I aim for 85-86%. With a carb, maybe there would be more fuel shear with the smaller throat ID? A valve job with 4-5 angles would take that out to ~86-88%.
All that being said, if that's the smallest area it will be OK and should work well. Make sure the intake port surface isn't any smoother than a 60grit finish, a burr or 36-40grit finish works well on carbs and most EFI setups.