B230 into a 145

[Minnesota Ryan]

I just started this project last night. It’s my first engine swap. I’m way over my head. I started by pulling the wiring harness and labeling things.

I’ve got the yoshifab engine mounts for a slant mount.

I have a T5 mustang transmission with the necessary adapters on the way.

Right now I can tell that the AC compressor (and everything AC) needs to go. (We don't use much AC in northern Minnesota anyway) and the alternator looks like it needs to be moved. I don't hear much mention of those things on these threads. The power steering pump looks like it needs to be relocated too.

I decided I better jump into this before I chicken out!

I'll take any advice.

 

[cwdodson88]

Does your 145 have power steering? I don’t believe that a 700 rack would work, so ditch that ps pump. Add in a Toyota Yaris epas if you need power steering. I don’t think that you’ll need to relocate much of anything, but you will need to remove it all before setting the engine into place

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Does your 145 have power steering? I don’t believe that a 700 rack would work, so ditch that ps pump. Add in a Toyota Yaris epas if you need power steering. I don’t think that you’ll need to relocate much of anything, but you will need to remove it all before setting the engine into place

It doesn't look like the 145 had power steering. That's a great point! I won't need the power steering pump from the b230.

 

[cwdodson88]

I’d say get as much hardware out of the way on the engine and install, then start throwing hardware back at it, follow that with plumbing and finish off with the wiring.

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

I needed a plan. Thanks! I’ll do that.

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Can any of you guys tell me what flywheel I need? I think it's the last thing I need to put the T5 transmission behind the B230. This B230 came out of a 1991 240 and it's going into the 1974 145 in the picture.

 

[John242Ti]

A friend of mine did a similar swap into a 1972 145E back in 1999-2000. In his case, he used a B23F, instead of a B230F. From what I remember, the tube between the brake booster and the master cylinder will need to be extended to clear the intake manifold, some modification is necessary to the oil pan so it'll clear the crossmember, and you'll need a 700 series alternator/AC bracket to move the alternator next to the distributor with a long belt that will run the alternator, water pump, and crank. There may still be photos in the Brickboard gallery. Found one, plus the description:

"This is the results of four months of work stuffing a b23 into our 72 145. I had to do quite a few modifications to get it to fit ( motor mounts, moved batt, removed fan and replaced w/electric on the front of the radiator, extended the brake booster mount to allow for the throttle body intake, and most importantly, cut and welded the oil pan to fit over the cross member.
As you can see it is installed slanted. I did this to take advantage of the 4 speed o/d that came with the engine package.
I still am working the bugs out but hope to have it nicley packaged by 2K ( 16 days!). And yes, it does run!"

 

[bgpzfm142]

Can any of you guys tell me what flywheel I need? I think it's the last thing I need to put the T5 transmission behind the B230.

Presuming you're using LH2.4, an 8-bolt flat flywheel with a 60-2 pattern for the RPM sensor.

STS Machining drill yours or will exchange your good flywheel for a drilled one plus dollars, or Yoshifab and others can supply lightweight fancy ones.

You'll also need a suitable spigot bearing, 17mm x 35mm OD x 17.4mm similar to Australian Clutch's ASB501R. (There's a Ford US part number kicking around on this forum somewhere).

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Presuming you're using LH2.4, an 8-bolt flat flywheel with a 60-2 pattern for the RPM sensor.

STS Machining drill yours or will exchange your good flywheel for a drilled one plus dollars, or Yoshifab and others can supply lightweight fancy ones.

You'll also need a suitable spigot bearing, 17mm x 35mm OD x 17.4mm similar to Australian Clutch's ASB501R. (There's a Ford US part number kicking around on this forum somewhere).

Thank you! I’ll look into those.

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Do you think this yoshifab flywheel and clutch combination would do the trick?

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Thank you! I’ll look into those.

Sounds like I still have a clutch problem. A friend mentioned the following

“I was looking at Spec Clutches for the 240 earlier in the week. Issue of getting them to sell the Volvo pressure plate with a 8.5" disc with ford splines - would be for 1980s 4 cylinder mustang.”

Would the yoshifab set up solve my problem?

 

[widewagon92]

Southbend has a listing specifically for mating a t5 to a b230 with a flat flywheel. Mine arrived in under a week and once I got it adjusted correctly it's worked like a charm. I ordered mine through sts machining.

 

[msweeney]

The Yoshifab piece is pretty darn nice and the piece of mind the steel flywheel gives me is worth it. I've seen a couple pretty scary flywheel failures before.

 

[bgpzfm142]

Oh - by the way, OP - what are you doing about a gearbox crossmember?

If you're not rolling your own, Yoshifab has really nice ones, ready to go, straight off the shelf.

And what about the tailshaft? Hell, if you've gone this far down the road, it might be worth getting a 740/940 tailshaft pair, with it's superior centre support bearing, and shortening it to suit. I did spy from your photo that you have a slip yoke ready to go for the T5, but you may want to change that over for the slip yoke with a weight on it - it's Ford part number F6ZZ-4841-BA. See the thread "B230+T5 3k rpm shake" for why it's worth thinking about.

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Presuming you're using LH2.4, an 8-bolt flat flywheel with a 60-2 pattern for the RPM sensor.

STS Machining drill yours or will exchange your good flywheel for a drilled one plus dollars, or Yoshifab and others can supply lightweight fancy ones.

You'll also need a suitable spigot bearing, 17mm x 35mm OD x 17.4mm similar to Australian Clutch's ASB501R. (There's a Ford US part number kicking around on this forum somewhere).

STS looks like a winner for the flywheel.

I have the spigot bearing but I seem to be getting different advice on the clutch I’ll need. Sounds like it needs to work with the T5 spline.

Any ideas?

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Oh - by the way, OP - what are you doing about a gearbox crossmember?

If you're not rolling your own, Yoshifab has really nice ones, ready to go, straight off the shelf.

And what about the tailshaft? Hell, if you've gone this far down the road, it might be worth getting a 740/940 tailshaft pair, with it's superior centre support bearing, and shortening it to suit. I did spy from your photo that you have a slip yoke ready to go for the T5, but you may want to change that over for the slip yoke with a weight on it - it's Ford part number F6ZZ-4841-BA. See the thread "B230+T5 3k rpm shake" for why it's worth thinking about.

I just bought the yoshifab crossmember for the gearbox. Good idea.

 

[widewagon92]

STS looks like a winner for the flywheel.

I have the spigot bearing but I seem to be getting different advice on the clutch I’ll need. Sounds like it needs to work with the T5 spline.

Any ideas?

The t5 does have a different input spline count from a volvo m46/47. The clutch you're looking for has it's own part number with southbend, if you haven't bought your sts flywheel yet you can add it to your cart right on their website. Barring that, I believe some people here run a clutch/pp combo from a saab, although I don't know if your sts flywheel will have the correct pinning for that pressure plate.

 

[Minnesota Ryan]

Ive got the B230 sitting in the 145 using yoshifab engine mounts and 140 rubber motor mounts. The oil pan just misses the frame's cross member but the transmission tunnel is a touch small for the bell housing.

I know I could cut out a transmission tunnel from a 240 and weld it in here, but I'm thinking of using a little brute force and widening the spots using a big hammer. This isn't a show car.

Any other ideas before I pull the motor out and do some banging?

 

[dl242gt]

If you keep the two piece Volvo driveshaft. STS sells a HD center support and bearing. Edit:That is unless your car uses the small driveshaft. Generally wagons get the larger driveshaft because they are the heaviest car. Check it out and it might be the same as the larger 240 driveshaft.