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B230FT My First Rebuild

they offered to do it agin for free, but in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma, it's not easy to find a low mile redblock with squirters. i think i'm just going to ask for my money back, and when i move i'll start on Another block, one done rite.
Last night i pained the block... it was surposed to be a neon green... haa haa haa i guess it only looks neon green under the store lights now i have a core that's Almost John Deer Green! my wife was like, Great now we just need to buy a tractor to put it in!

So, Exactly what bearings do i need to get? because if i use this block (most likely i will) i want to get this thread wraped up, okay aside from bearings, is there any thing else i will need, i got a crank case gasket set... any tips or tricks there?
now.. there was a Big seal... that was tough to get out of the aluminium houseing, but when i replaced it, i put a little grease around the edge of the seak and it poped rite in. then i carefully seated it Exactly where the old one was, any issue with putting some grease around it?
Also, fcpgroton only sells the sets of 4 so if any one knows where i can get a reasonable priced single that would be Great
 
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Dear members

Hi Wolfie --
IMO: the Haynes manual puts it right -- famliarize yourself with the whole job before starting to atempt to do it yourself, these motors are finnicky. the tolerances VERY tight --.
Familliarize yourself with the tools as well, breaking piston rings and squirteres is avoidable, if the job would have been planned out right.
And consider -- Are you good enough to trust your job being worth the money you put into this project? And also, will the car be reliable?
Or maybe consider to contact the One or other member of this forum, who do that job day-by-day and buy an already overhowled engine which you can trust ??
IMO -- not much point doing a bit here and a bit there, and having the whole thing apart again in a short time.
 
I'll get it done, and i'm looking forward to the job, just going to go threw it systematicly, part by part. Plus, if i never do it, i'll never learn... and i plan to be burried in this car :)
 
So, i'm Still not shure if i'm going to use this block or not, but i did decide to try out a look for it...

GreenBlock6.jpg



Boy is that... Green....

Greenblock5.jpg



Verry Verry Green.... I Like it... but it still needs some thing....




I Don't Know......



Say......





Perhaps.....





some Blue......



2tone3.jpg




Here's the Other Side....



2toneblock-1.jpg



What do you thinks... Discrase or Cool lookin?? the downpipe is blue aswell, (not shure how olg it will stay that way)


But Most of the Vac lines are blue to...

OK Back to the imporntant things... so my wife noticed that the harmonic balancer came back from the shop... minus a bite, it looks like some one took a bite out of the edge!

/me is going to see them monday! i called today and missed them, monday i'm calling, to politely ask them to make shure they have some cash on hand, because i plan on getting it back.
 
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That paint job looks great! I like it half blue half green something new you don't see everyday. Plus word online from some Florida guy is that green blocks don't die or aleast thats what I have been told.
 
Well, the latest news, is, a few days ago, i realised it looks like a 4 year old took a bite out of the harmonic balancer....

so today, i went to the pick-n-pull and got another one. and the windshield wiper squirter motor.
But now i need to find new rings for 1 piston.. and a new oil squirter. but i will put that in the Wanted for sale.

I got my main bearings in yesterday, and fit them. looks Great... now i need to order the rod bearings...

So.. please Stay tuned for the next exciteing episode!:volvo:
 
aux bearings.... i'm guessing they need to be Pressed in? i seem to have buggered the middle one up by trying to tap it in so, here shortly i will be finding a shop that will pullout my bugger up and pop the new ones in.
 
thanks, some times i feel like man... WTF am i doing... i have a couple of other surprises aswell, but i'm saveing them till every thing is put back togather and i get to take a test drive =)
 
It's Sleeved... and i'm not happy about it.... infact because they damaged the squirtern the morning i'm sending the bill to the shop for the squirter to see if they plan on paying for that aswell
 
I'm going to edit all my posts togather and finish this off, long story short, i got 1100 miles away from my former home and threw a rod, I was however able to Drive it up on the car hauler , where he dumped it off at a gas station, till i could rent a moveing truck and car hauler trailer, i got about 300 miles from where i was moveing to, and the wheels fell off the car hauler trailer. Uhg, any body in Wa, or oregon have have a b230FT block,,, with squirters for sale? or for free?
 
Bummer about the rod throw.
So did ya ever get the car working
how you wanted it to work?
Do they use salt on the roads in Alaska?
 
Daaaaaaang

HansW said:
Hi
Just typed it out -- makes for better readability:

Engine Specifications B 230 Ft

Cylinder head
Warp-limit acceptable for use:
Lengthwise: 0.50 mm
Across: 0.25 mm
Warp limit acceptable for refinishing;
Lengthwise: 1,00 mm
Across ; 0.50 mm
Height:
New: 146,1 mm
Minimum after refinishing: 145.6 mm

Inlet Valves
Head diameter: 44mm
Stem diameter:
New: 7,955 to 7,970 mm
Wear limit: 7,935 mm
Valve head angle: 44deg 30?

Exhaust valves
Head diameter: 35 mm
Stem diameter
New: 7,945 ? 7,965 mm
Wear limit: 7,925 mm

Valve seats inserts:
Diameter (standard)
Inlet: 46 mm
Exhaust: 38 mm
Oversizes available: +0,25 and +0,50 mm
Valve seat angle: 45 deg

Valve guides
Length: 52 mm
Internal diameter: 8,000 ? 8, 022 mm
Height above cylinder head:
Inlet: 15,4 to 15,6 mm
Exhaust: 17,9 - 18,1 mm
Stem to guide clearance
New: ( inlet) 0,030 ? 0,060 mm
New ( exhaust ): 0,060 ? 0,090 mm
Wear limit (inlet and exhaust) 0,15 mm
Fit in head: interference
External oversizes available 3

Valve springs
Diameter: 25.9 mm
Free length: 45,5 mm
Length under load:
280 to 320 N 38,00mm
702 ? 782 N 27,5 mm

Cylinder bores
Standard size:
C: 96,00 ? 96,01 mm
D: 96,01 ? 96,02 mm
E: 96,02 ? 96,03 mm
G: 96,04 ? 96,05 mm
First oversize: 96,30 mm
Second oversize: 96,60 mm
Wear limit: 0,1 mm

Pistons
Height: 64,7 mm
Weight variation in same engine: 16 gram max.
Running clearance in bore 0,01 ? 0,03 mm

Piston rings
Clearance in groove
Top compression: 0,060 ? 0,092 mm
Second compression: 0,040 ? 0,072 mm
Oil control: 0,030 ? 0,065 mm
End gap:
Compression rings: 0,30 ? 0,55 mm
Oil ring: 0,30 ? 0,60 mm

Gudgeons pins
Diameter standard: 23,00 mm
Oversize available: + 0,05 mm
Fit in rod: light thumb pressure
Fit in piston: firm thumb pressure

Auxiliary shaft
Bearing journal diameter
Front: 46,975 ? 47,000 mm
Centre: 43,025 ? 43,050 mm
Rear: 42,925 ? 42,950 mm
Bearing running clearance: 0,020 ? 0,075 mm
End float: 0,20 mm ? 0,46 mm

Crankshaft
Run out: max. 0,04 mm
End float: 0,080 ? 0,270 mm
Main bearing journal diameter:
Standard: 63,00 mm
First undersize: 62,75 mm
Second undersize: 62,50 mm
Main bearing running clearance: 0,024 ? 0,072 mm
Main bearing out of round: 0,006 mm max.
Main bearing taper: 0,006 mm max.
Connecting rod bearing journal diameter:
Standard: 49,00 mm
First undersize: 48,75 mm
Second undersize: 48,50 mm
Connecting rod bearing running clearance: 0,023 ? 0,067 mm
Connecting rod bearing out of round: 0,1mm max.
Connecting rod taper: 0,01 mm max.

Connecting rods
Length between centres: 152 mm
Endfloat in crankshaft: 0,25 ? 0,45 mm
Weight variation in same engine: 20 gram max.
Click to expand...

I don't even know if you're still on the forum at all, but this is FANTASTIC info. All the links are broken, all the photos are gone, and K-jet.org is no more. In fact, I think the site owner may have died based on his last few posts :( Hopefully he isn't.

I just ordered a paper copy of the engine refurb manual off ebay for $13.

I'm trying to find limits for the cam journals.
 
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