B230ft no compression timing correct

[ZVOLV]

I knew a dog named Had Balls.


Be careful with used junk. It could be cracked, corroded coolant passages, over-milled, scored cam journals, leaking valves, etc. I would want a turbo head with the sodium filled exhaust valves.

 

[Ayce]

Baz thanks for the link. That guy is always selling some good redblock parts for super fair prices. He got back to me just now saying he’s got someone heading over, honestly I’m surprised it’s not already gone.

Good idea Zvolv, I really don’t think it’s timing related anymore, hopefully I can get some answers from those who know more
Here’s a video of the cam
Is this a good way of including videos? I’m using an iPhone and it never wants to insert photos into the threads.

 

[ZVOLV]

That looks like a stock T cam. Hmmm....

The biggest red flag so far is those pulses of smoke coming from the intake side while cranking. I am really curious to find out where that is coming from.

So put the cam to top dead center on number one. I wanna see what your cam lobes are pointing at. Sheared roll pin isn't out of the question. Dont take that head off yet!

 

[Ayce]

That looks like a stock T cam. Hmmm....

The biggest red flag so far is those pulses of smoke coming from the intake side while cranking. I am really curious to find out where that is coming from.

So put the cam to top dead center on number one. I wanna see what your cam lobes are pointing at. Sheared roll pin isn't out of the question. Dont take that head off yet!

The smoke is coming from what I am pretty sure is a coolant line for the heater core. It comes out of the head, under the intake mani and into the firewall, there are two rubber hoses going into the firewall behind the mani and it is the lower one, there is a vaccum actuated valve. See post 16 for a better video

Cam at TDC

 

[ZVOLV]

I didn't see the cam gear timing mark in that video, but your cam is at number 4 TDC and your crank "looks" like it is at number 1. That ain't right. Your number 1 lobes should be pointed upwards at number 1 TDC. Your number 4 lobes are pointed upwards. Your cam is at number 4 TDC. It looks like your timing is way off. (EDIT-rotate the crank another 360 and your number 1 lobes should be pointed up. Your cam timing could be correct).

Your crank "looks" to be at number 1 TDC, but never assume your harmonic dampener mark is correct. The rubber slips. You need to look down into the lower timing cover and check the crank sprocket timing by using the notch in the washer compared to the raised edge on the engine. (Look for pics. I will search too)

Confirm the crank is at TDC using the notch in the belt guide washer. You gotta look down there with a flashlight. Then post a pic of your cam gear mark and where the lobes are pointing. It looks like we found the problem, but you gotta confirm it.

The good news is, the stock cam isn't interference. It looks like your belt may be on wrong or your cam gear has slipped on the cam. Or both.


googled ------------ site:turbobricks.com crankshaft timing mark

30 seconds later here ya go

 

[ZVOLV]

The smoke is coming from what I am pretty sure is a coolant line for the heater core. It comes out of the head, under the intake mani and into the firewall, there are two rubber hoses going into the firewall behind the mani and it is the lower one, there is a vaccum actuated valve. See post 16 for a better video

Cam at TDC

I find it hard to believe that the heater hose is puffing smoke, but I guess it is possible if you have a blown head gasket. I have a feeling the air is just reverting out the intake due to the cam timing being off and you are seeing vapor coming from an air leak. Hoses can pop off when there are backfires from cam timing being incorrect. Maybe a PCV hose popped off.

 

[Ayce]

Ok Tomorrow I’ll take a look at the crank gear and make sure everything is all lined up and update the thread. Oh and unravel that leaky hose and reconnect it

 

[KortStubin]

I would want a turbo head with the sodium filled exhaust valves.

Off topic but why?

 

[OVERDRIVE]

Off topic but why?

The heads from turbo engines had sodium filled exhaust valves, they help cool the valve by dissapating heat to the stem. Cooler valves also mean more detonation resistance too. I've seen standard exhaust valves in overworked redblock engines burn, though it isn't common.

 

[shoestring]

I didn't see the cam gear timing mark in that video, but your cam is at number 4 TDC and your crank "looks" like it is at number 1. That ain't right. Your number 1 lobes should be pointed upwards at number 1 TDC. Your number 4 lobes are pointed upwards. Your cam is at number 4 TDC. It looks like your timing is way off.

If you turn the crank over another full revolution, cam #1 would look the way you want it to. 2:1 ratio on the gears and 1 and 4 are across from each other in firing order. The way it is in the video is OK, in a gross sense. I would still check for pin shearing.

 

[culberro]

I think if the pin sheared the cam gear bolt would stop spinning and it looks like everything is turning together in his video

Not always.
I've seen the pins shear but still rotate, the cam is just massively out of time.

Best check @Ayce:
1. TDC #1 verified with something in the spark plug hole to find TDC.
2. Take off the oil cap and visually inspect that both cam lobes are facing up (relative to the valve cover gasket/head plane) about the same amount. If the cam lobes are pointing towards the combustion chamber, rotate engine over another revolution and check at the next TDC #1.
3. Check all of the timing marks: crank, aux, cam

Move on from there.

 

[bobxyz]

From your first video and comments, it sure seems like it has no compression at all. If the cam pin was sheared, I'd still expect some compression on at least one cylinder.

The valves could be bent but still move up and down. To check properly, you need to measure the cam-to-bucket-shim clearance. Rotate the engine until the cam lobes are pointing upwards, then slip a feeler gauge in between the lobe and the shim. You may need to push down on the bucket by hand if the engine still has soft rubber hushers under the buckets. Factory clearance is 0.012" to 0.016". If you have much larger than this, the valve is probably bent.

If you have an air compressor with a blowgun nozzle, you could set it to a really low pressure, say 10psi, and pressurize the cooling system through the small overflow bottle hose. Listen for hissing/spitting noises. You can also pull the plugs and use a piece of small hose held to your ear to listen if there's hissing in any cylinder.

 

[ZVOLV]

If you turn the crank over another full revolution, cam #1 would look the way you want it to. 2:1 ratio on the gears and 1 and 4 are across from each other in firing order. The way it is in the video is OK, in a gross sense. I would still check for pin shearing.

It was late last night when I was posting. I was thinking of firing order and all that stuff, and considered that he was just off a 360 turn of the crank as a possibility.

Spin the crank 360 and confirm that number 1 lobes are pointing up.

 

[Ayce]

It was late last night when I was posting. I was thinking of firing order and all that stuff, and considered that he was just off a 360 turn of the crank as a possibility.

Spin the crank 360 and confirm that number 1 lobes are pointing up.

Yes I was off one turn. I also pulled the lower cover off and made sure the crankshaft was aligned. Timing is correct. The intermediate shaft isn’t lined up though, since I read on head mounted distributors all that it drives is the oil pump. I had it lined up, but it spun while I was installing the belt

If you have an air compressor with a blowgun nozzle, you could set it to a really low pressure, say 10psi, and pressurize the cooling system through the small overflow bottle hose. Listen for hissing/spitting noises. You can also pull the plugs and use a piece of small hose held to your ear to listen if there's hissing in any cylinder.

I couldn’t get the .012 shim in between the cam and bucket for 7 of the valves. There’s definitely something wrong with valve #7 (counting from front to back, is this an intake, it’s #4 exhaust valve I think). I was able to stuff 0.118 inches in there.

I have the air hose connected to the little hose like you suggested and I hear gurgling and see some coolant spilling out from the same place I saw the smoke coming from

 

[Ayce]

Now that I’m looking at that coolant leak a little closer I’m thinking how do these connect? The female end that the hose would slip over is obstructed by the valve system. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be some kind of piece between the two? I feel like this is the least of my concerns right now. I’m going to see what I can find about it though.

 

[AnthonyHardy2]

That looks like a broken heater valve to me so smoke coming out of there while cranking is very concerning. A broken heater valve can very quickly dump all of the coolant and if someone kept driving it after that happened and severely overheated it that would explain your compression issues.

Now that I’m looking at that coolant leak a little closer I’m thinking how do these connect? The female end that the hose would slip over is obstructed by the valve system. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be some kind of piece between the two? I feel like this is the least of my concerns right now. I’m going to see what I can find about it though.

The barb that the hose would normally connect to is broken off and is probably still inside of the hose. Heater valve failures on 7/940s are pretty common

 

[ZVOLV]

I think you have found the cause of the problem here. Heater valve broke, engine overheated, headgasket is probably popped between two cylinders and causing your lack of compression.

The previous owner conveniently didn't tell you that they drove it overheated for who knows how long.

The blown head gasket $500 brick!

You are probably going to need a new cylinder head. I have seen one where they said the pulled over right away, but there was molten aluminum coming out of the exhaust ports.

 

[Ayce]

That looks like a broken heater valve to me so smoke coming out of there while cranking is very concerning. A broken heater valve can very quickly dump all of the coolant and if someone kept driving it after that happened and severely overheated it that would explain your compression issues.

Yeah, I bet youre right about that. I think im clear to pull the head now, I don’t really want to deal with swapping the motor, but I’m debating it since it would be good practice for +t’ing my 245. Do you guys think the bottom end will be severely damaged? Only one way to find out right

 

[HardBaz]

Yeah, I bet youre right about that. I think im clear to pull the head now, I don’t really want to deal with swapping the motor, but I’m debating it since it would be good practice for +t’ing my 245. Do you guys think the bottom end will be severely damaged? Only one way to find out right

if you do i have a spare intercooler not sure if its 2/7/9 series

just guessing but since its a cast iron block, it should be fine for the most part

 

[ZVOLV]

Block should be good. It's worth laying a straight edge down on it and making sure.