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B230ft swapped 83 242, no lights, blinkers, wipers or horn and have to pull fuse to kill car.

242Tim

242Tim

New member
Joined
Mar 29, 2018
Location
Olympia, Wa
I feel like I’m missing something obvious, I’ve searched around and haven’t found anyone with similar problems. Any ideas? Thanks
 
There should be a smaller size large red wire from the positive battery post to the left inner fender power distribution connection. It has a black cover over it. That is where all the devices that work with the key off like lights and the ignition switch get the power from the battery. If that is not connected you can't crank the car or have lights.
 
dl242gt said:
There should be a smaller size large red wire from the positive battery post to the left inner fender power distribution connection. It has a black cover over it. That is where all the devices that work with the key off like lights and the ignition switch get the power from the battery. If that is not connected you can't crank the car or have lights.
Click to expand...
Ignition switch seems fine. The car does start and drive, but just have to pull a fuse to get the car to turn off. I’ll check the power distribution wires and report back.
Thanks.
 
Cars that stay running can have a short in the alternator excitor wire to the large B+ wire in the alternator harness. If that happens then the car keeps running even with the key off. The wires in a bad wiring harness will short at the large gray plug at the back of the engine this will also cause a stays running issue.
 
Are you powering the ecu from a constant 12v instead of a switched 12v?
If you turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pumps prime? If you turn the key on-off-on, do you hear the pumps cycle each time the key is on?
 
dl242gt said:
Cars that stay running can have a short in the alternator excitor wire to the large B+ wire in the alternator harness. If that happens then the car keeps running even with the key off. The wires in a bad wiring harness will short at the large gray plug at the back of the engine this will also cause a stays running issue.
Click to expand...
I forgot I did replace the wire for the power distribution box while doing the engine swap, it had kinda fried itself while trying to get the engine to start for the first time.
I replaced the engine harness with a new, Dave Barton wire harness for this swap, I guess it could be bad past the connection at the firewall.
 
culberro said:
Are you powering the ecu from a constant 12v instead of a switched 12v?
If you turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pumps prime? If you turn the key on-off-on, do you hear the pumps cycle each time the key is on?
Click to expand...
If I turn the key on off on it does not prime, it does start within a few seconds still.
 
242Tim said:
If I turn the key on off on it does not prime, it does start within a few seconds still.
Click to expand...
Do you have a voltage meter?
Can you check both fuel pumps fuses to see if they go to zero volts after a few seconds. If it stays at battery voltage, I would guess that you’re using a constant voltage instead of a switched voltage to supply voltage to the ecu.
 
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