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B23FT swap into a 1991 740

ZVOLV

ZVOLV

<Master Tech>
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Location
California
I just bought a "50k miles" 1984 B23FT. I plan to put it in my 1991 745 to replace the tired B230FT.

What modifications will need to be done to bolt this thing in?

It has the threaded holes for a crank position sensor!

I just can't think of anything right now that will prevent an "easy" drop in. I am gonna try to do this at the shop in ONE day or less.B23FT_AW71.JPGSpeedo84_760.jpgTrunkEngine.jpgB23FTintrunkSmaller.jpg
 
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ZVOLV said:
I just bought a "50k miles" 1984 B23FT. I plan to put it in my 1991 745 to replace the tired B230FT.

What modifications will need to be done to bolt this thing in?

It has the threaded holes for a crank position sensor!

I just can't think of anything right now that will prevent an "easy" drop in. I am gonna try to do this at the shop in ONE day or less.
Click to expand...
I’m glad you bought that thing so I didn’t have to. Lol
 
You will need to swap the ECT sensor for the 2.4 sensor and possibly, the knock sensor. That is such an early engine I don't know what Volvo was using for the knock sensor then. That engine might even have a single terminal sensor for the temperature gage. I would just swap the entire intake manifold with injectors and fuel rail and throttle body/TPS. Also, the IAC valve and hoses. Of course, you will use the 1991 engine harness. You will need a long coil wire to reach the block mount distributor.
 
@2many- Thx for the reminders on the coolant temp sensor/s.

@rb92- Yeah, I am gonna do fresh seals and gaskets and a good inspection before the lump goes into a daily driver.
 
Maybe obvious, maybe not...water pump is different between b21/23 and b230. Water pipe that bolts to back of the water pump is also different...the little tab is on the opposite side. So just in case you were thinking of using the b230 water pipe for the water/oil heat exhanger...or just using a cleaner or repainted b230 water pipe...it's not direct. We used a b230 pipe on my b23 rebuild, mikeP welded a tab onto the pipe for the water pump attachment and welded another piece along the back so it could be bolted through the dipstick tube attachment point on the block. I think we did that because we only would have had a non-turbo b21/23 water pipe which I think was different from the b21/23 turbo version that dipped down more (?)

Dipstick tube will be different, too, as I recall. I don't know how much stuff is coming off this B23 to get cleaned up, but little stuff like that can be different between them.

Valve cover gasket is different on the older head.

Did that engine use solid motor mounts and do you have the chassis-side brackets? I thought those were different on 7/9s, compared to the ones used for hydraulic mounts.
 
@towery- I understand the water pump and heater pipe are different. It uses solid engine mounts. I was provided the brackets. I just need to get some new rubbers. I am going to use the air-cooled heat exchanger/oil cooler setup.

PROBLEM- I ned to figure out power steering, AC compressor, and alternator setup. The B23FT used a big ol york compressor with the power steering above it (240 style) and the alternator down low on the passenger side (240 style). What needs to be done to mount my 740 B230FT power steeting pump, alternator, and compressor on this B23FT? I was told I can adapt the brackets with a little modification.
 
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Is it OK to run those injectors on LH 2.4 with resistor pack?
Because of the distributor location you may have problems when it's time to do Smog Test (if the tech spots it which is not very likely). Because the engine is older than the car it's not technically legal anyway in CA.
 
This engine was LH2.0 and EZK. I am pretty sure the same knock sensor and injector/resistor pack is used.
 
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I ran my quickest junkyard race car time with that motor in my 89 744 with lh2.4 and 15g and A cam. 12.61 at 108mph. I went with the later oil to water oil cooler setup and welded the water bung onto that heater pipe from the back of the pump to the heater core. I put it in the right spot like the 93 plus motor did. Just what I did for less sheet in the way and lighter and faster. Found the motor in a 34k mile smashed car at the pick and pull! Turned the number three rod bearing running in it lean and way to high on the revs. Ohh and if you put 90 plus on it with that T3 the hard lines should work, but if you go Mitsubishi turbo you'll need custom oil return pipe. I used to make those. Still got that 84 b23ft on a stand in my shop as the jig!
 
sbabbs- Were you able to mount the 740 PS pump using to the B23FT block using the B230FT bracket/pump?

I saw an old thread where you got the alt bracket to work by drilling the third hole. Two bolts aligned..
 
ZVOLV said:
@towery- I understand the water pump and heater pipe are different. It uses solid engine mounts. I was provided the brackets. I just need to get some new rubbers. I am going to use the air-cooled heat exchanger/oil cooler setup.

PROBLEM- I ned to figure out power steering, AC compressor, and alternator setup. The B23FT used a big ol york compressor with the power steering above it (240 style) and the alternator down low on the passenger side (240 style). What needs to be done to mount my 740 B230FT power steeting pump, alternator, and compressor on this B23FT? I was told I can adapt the brackets with a little modification.
Click to expand...
Todd Kijowski had a B23FT in his '91'ish 945...let me see if I can search up any photos to see what accessories he had where. Pretty sure he still had A/C.

For those who were not there!!!

Mods and misc to date Body Modifications 98 V 90 door handles 98 V90 Tailgate and handle 98 V90 Moonroof 98 V 90 Tailights 98 V90 Rain gutter mouldings Spegel Cup mirrors from Sweden Rear Deck lid spoiler with 3 rd light Volvo factory Aero rocker covers Volvo factory vent cover Painted front...
www.turbobricks.com www.turbobricks.com
"Custom Alternator bracket"
"A/C Conversion" <-- assuming just the later a/c, not the '84-spec?

Photos are dead links, 'turbo16psi' pbase site no longer found.
 
On my 85ish B21FT, I was able to bolt on the later accessories bracket directly with no extra holes needed - https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/b230-accessory-bracket-on-a-b21.353723/

Are you using the B23 turbo and manifold? If you plan to change this in the future, It's easier to remove the turbo from a 90+ manifold than the 89- log manifold, which is bolted from the back. The 90+ will need slightly different oil feed/return lines (like kinugawa).

You'll need the 60-2 flexplate from your B230FT, and the injectors+resistor pack. Swap the temp sensor as 2manyturbos said. I don't know the compatibility, but the later alternator bracket tensioner and PS/AC tensioners are easier to use than the pulley shims on the B21 (and B23?).

Smog legal would be head mounted distributor, which means slotted cam.
 
I used a B23 in a 1988 245 with everything (head and accessories) from the 88.
That accessory bracket is different from a 740, though. Good look.
 
I'm going to take the advice of the late Redwood Chair and "restore it to stock" and run the stock T3 for a while, instead of the overboosted 15G that's on the car now.

I'm running a M90 behind it with the auto 3.73 gears.
 
The turbo is tight and spins well. I am definitely nervous about putting an engine in that's been sitting since 1989, but I have professional skills, tools and equipment so it won't be hard. I'm probably gonna pull the engine, trans and crossmember out the bottom on the hydraulic lift table.
 
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