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Back to pushrod performance

I’m familiar with how they are lubed from the factory, I’m just curious if you were going to pressure feed oil through the rocker to the adjuster cup. If you’re going this route you’d want to use a lifter with an oil feed hole on the face of it as well.

I’m a big fan of the OEM lifters. They’re a lot lighter than the GM ones, and it’s cheap enough to get them lapped and DLC coated if you are really worried about them.

I need to get a pushrod block to poke around (plenty of heads) to see how difficult a lifter spray/drip bar would be. Also, looking into bushing and reaming the lifter bores or converting them to a roller lifter setup. Easy one you have the right machinery (which I now do)
 
Yeah, pressure through the rocker down to the lifter. Thinking about the feed through the face, or maybe a groove in the outs of the lifter. Either way you get a bit more oil down there. And with a 70-80 year old design, anything helps, right?

Going full roller would be interesting. But seems like a lot of work. Roller cam, clearancing the block, lifter straps, etc. sounds like it would fall into the 1-2% of builds.

Hoping that a 1.7 ratio bolt on roller rocker affair that falls under a 1k price tag opens up to more people. And if it included some of the tools needed to set it up correctly, that might help. Might be kinda cool to have the kit include a setup pushrod for someone to measure for their specific build.
 
I've got some roller lifters and custom made straps that I could donate to the project. I had Isky replace the rollers and gave them my steel billet cam so they could regrind the lobes because the rollers had worn them a bit. Unfortunately they lost the cam which is a shame because it was rather special. The second journal was made the same size as the first so a larger lobe could be used. The cam wear was most likely caused by the triple valve springs.

I can also donate the custom rocker setup that T&D made for me. It uses pairs of Chevy shaft mounted rockers but the geometry is off because the rockers were moved toward the pushrod holes to make room for the triple springs. The pushrods rubbed on the outer side of the holes and when clearanced, broke through the casting. I sent that head to Chris already.

VolvoT&DRollerRockers.jpg
 
hiperfauto said:
I've got some roller lifters and custom made straps that I could donate to the project. I had Isky replace the rollers and gave them my steel billet cam so they could regrind the lobes because the rollers had worn them a bit. Unfortunately they lost the cam which is a shame because it was rather special. The second journal was made the same size as the first so a larger lobe could be used. The cam wear was most likely caused by the triple valve springs.

I can also donate the custom rocker setup that T&D made for me. It uses pairs of Chevy shaft mounted rockers but the geometry is off because the rockers were moved toward the pushrod holes to make room for the triple springs. The pushrods rubbed on the outer side of the holes and when clearanced, broke through the casting. I sent that head to Chris already.

VolvoT&DRollerRockers.jpg
Click to expand...
I would be totally game for this!
 
hiperfauto said:
I've got some roller lifters and custom made straps that I could donate to the project. I had Isky replace the rollers and gave them my steel billet cam so they could regrind the lobes because the rollers had worn them a bit. Unfortunately they lost the cam which is a shame because it was rather special. The second journal was made the same size as the first so a larger lobe could be used. The cam wear was most likely caused by the triple valve springs.

I can also donate the custom rocker setup that T&D made for me. It uses pairs of Chevy shaft mounted rockers but the geometry is off because the rockers were moved toward the pushrod holes to make room for the triple springs. The pushrods rubbed on the outer side of the holes and when clearanced, broke through the casting. I sent that head to Chris already.

VolvoT&DRollerRockers.jpg
Click to expand...
I’ve pulled some scans of that head in the hopes of designing a billet aluminum one. There’s some really special stuff going on with that one.

It’s probably way outside the range of what most people would be looking for, but it’s definitely a fun one to look at. I’ve got a couple other heads that I need to sacrifice to make it all the way round. I’m slowly getting oiling and water jackets working. But it’s very unlikely that anyone else would be interested in a full billet head at what it will cost to make. So it’s kinda been on the side burner for a while.
 
cwdodson88 said:
I’ve pulled some scans of that head in the hopes of designing a billet aluminum one. There’s some really special stuff going on with that one.

It’s probably way outside the range of what most people would be looking for, but it’s definitely a fun one to look at. I’ve got a couple other heads that I need to sacrifice to make it all the way round. I’m slowly getting oiling and water jackets working. But it’s very unlikely that anyone else would be interested in a full billet head at what it will cost to make. So it’s kinda been on the side burner for a while.
Click to expand...
A billet pushrod head would be very easy to manufacture, especially if you went with an electric water pump.
 
culberro said:
A billet pushrod head would be very easy to manufacture, especially if you went with an electric water pump.
Click to expand...
An electric water pump would definitely make it easier to manufacture. And even in its current form it’s not too bad. There’s a few things that I would change and make it slightly more interesting. The design I have started moves the intake and exhaust ports upward by about 5/16”, biased spark plug towards the exhaust valve, oil and coolant passage
 
The intake port is at a decent height from the factory, but more is always better.

Raising the exhaust port 1/2”+ would be ideal.

Good call on moving the spark plug. I think the spark plug location was probably designed on a Friday after lunch. It’s not good at all.
 
culberro said:
The intake port is at a decent height from the factory, but more is always better.

Raising the exhaust port 1/2”+ would be ideal.

Good call on moving the spark plug. I think the spark plug location was probably designed on a Friday after lunch. It’s not good at all.
Click to expand...
Yeah, the 5/16 was enough to get a decent ssr and not require any special upgrades to headers, and accessories. But I could probably get a good bit more. Might have to get back at it and see what could be done with a bit of angle adjustment to the valves. I had started playing around with moving the intake to the opposite side, but that requires more work on the accessories like headers, intake, etc.
 
cyclist said:
Raise the exhaust ports – I saw this at least once on the Scandinavian internet.

Care to entice us with some CAD views of your choosing?
Click to expand...
Not yet. Going through some CFD and other fun things. The aim is to have this using as many stock replacement parts as possible, with little risk of downstream fitment problems. So raising all 8 ports about 1/2”, but keeping spring/valve/rockers very tight to original design.

I’m kind of waiting until I get the EOS M400 in the shop and setup. I’d like to get closer to a prototype this summer, but I have a couple more cylinder heads to cut in half.
 
We ordered a billet cylinder head for our single cylinder research engine. We just told the company that exhaust valve is 35 mm, that comes from another design criteria. We asked them do you have any good suggestions for exhaust port?
"Yeah I got very good Toyota port. I can use that"
 
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