"Barn Find" 1980 242, Turbo 5.3 L33, TKX, 8.8, Haltech

[brendon_ak]

Any chance the boom tubes will come back?

Don't forget about the white letter tires too...and Jeff Gordon livery

 

[mopar318]

Very cool photos, The roll racing looks like a blast. I haven't been able to get mine to a roll event, but would love to. The 1/4 mile stuff gets really hard on parts I've come to realize. I noticed you mentioned you may turn it up a bit, you may find a h2o/meth kit to be more effective for your goal than E85. It keeps the injector duty down, and still gives you the knock protection and extra timing advantage when in boost. Also, twice the fuel mileage vs E. The power these things make is just obnoxious anyway, so any benefit to the E isn't going to change overall performance on the street enough to matter.

I ran strictly ethanol on the 16valve setup. There really wouldn't be a benefit to running a piggyback meth kit. I sized my injectors for 800hp with ethanol. We have E85 everywhere here and it is usually $2 a gallon or less. I have a flex fuel sensor with blend tables so I just dump whatever into the tank.

 

[stevE85]

I ran strictly ethanol on the 16valve setup. There really wouldn't be a benefit to running a piggyback meth kit. I sized my injectors for 800hp with ethanol. We have E85 everywhere here and it is usually $2 a gallon or less. I have a flex fuel sensor with blend tables so I just dump whatever into the tank.

I see your point, if you already got it set up for flex and the fuel in plentiful. Why not? It ain't that way out here in commiefornia. We have it, but it is like E60ish by me.

 

[mopar318]

I see your point, if you already got it set up for flex and the fuel in plentiful. Why not? It ain't that way out here in commiefornia. We have it, but it is like E60ish by me.

We grow the fuel here. It's a great alternative to buying from the creators of the War on Oil.

Next month is the Half Mile sponsored by the Indiana Corn Growers and Market Counsil.

 

[mopar318]

Here's a quick 3rd gear pull video.

 

[stevE85]

Wow, you have quite a lot of timing in it at 10psi, I'm very conservative there I guess. You definitely got a lot of injector to go though. Is this pull on pump gas?

 

[mopar318]

Wow, you have quite a lot of timing in it at 10psi, I'm very conservative there I guess. You definitely got a lot of injector to go though. Is this pull on pump gas?

20 degrees is pretty conservative still. The tuner I used, ShorTuning has the highest HP stock block LS measured on the dyno.

This is regular 93, which has about 10% alcohol. Running ID 1000cc injectors

 

[244tiCanuck]

My IAT's are at or below ambient tetemp.
 

Are you running water/meth then?

 

[mopar318]

Are you running water/meth then?

You caught me. I should have said track temp. Track temp was around 120F and my logs were showing a high of around 105 after the 1/4 mile.

Actually air temperature on that day was in the lower 90's

 

[244tiCanuck]

You caught me. I should have said track temp. Track temp was around 120F and my logs were showing a high of around 105 after the 1/4 mile.

Actually air temperature on that day was in the lower 90's

Ah okay. With WMI I sometimes see a few degrees below ambient after a pull. I run it because we can't get E85 where I live.

 

[stevE85]

20 degrees is pretty conservative still. The tuner I used, ShorTuning has the highest HP stock block LS measured on the dyno.

This is regular 93, which has about 10% alcohol. Running ID 1000cc injectors

I guess I should've specified, with ungapped rings and flat top pistons it just seems high for pump gas. That timing under 9psi boost and right through the torque peak @ 20* creates a lot of heat. I'm only mentioning it because it can lead to the rings butting/breaking. Did you have the car tuned on a chassis dyno?

 

[mopar318]

I guess I should've specified, with ungapped rings and flat top pistons it just seems high for pump gas. That timing under 9psi boost and right through the torque peak @ 20* creates a lot of heat. I'm only mentioning it because it can lead to the rings butting/breaking. Did you have the car tuned on a chassis dyno?

Just street tuning. I will verify with the tuner that the timing tables are as intended. This is with 10% E as well. The blend tables to work since I have the custom blend tables enabled with the Flex Fuel Sensor.

 

[stevE85]

Just street tuning. I will verify with the tuner that the timing tables are as intended. This is with 10% E as well. The blend tables to work since I have the custom blend tables enabled with the Flex Fuel Sensor.

I would be conservative through that area of the map until you see what the more/less timing is doing for power production on a dyno. I had to replace the head gaskets in mine, and since have been much more safe with my tuning. I believe I had about 16*@12-14psi in it when it started to push water.

 

[mopar318]

Short idle video. I love this cam.

I also added an anti-lag button. It's a Volvo 240 heated mirror switch.

Next up is adding in the clutch switch for 2 step and FFS + cruise control.

 

[stevE85]

Love the rolling anti-lag, I was just reading on how to set that up in my car the other day. Is the cruise all handled by the ECU?

 

[mopar318]

Love the rolling anti-lag, I was just reading on how to set that up in my car the other day. Is the cruise all handled by the ECU?

Yep, it is done through the Haltech. I have not decided if I want to use the remaining inputs (it takes 4 in total), or add a CAN switch panel. I'll probably go the switch panel route because I really don't want to go crazy with wiring. Then I could add a PDM-16 and rewire the whole car with a PDM.

 

[mopar318]

The car is running extremely well and super reliable. I've put 2400 miles on it as of this morning, with the only issue being a starter and some clutch engagement/slippage.

This winter I am going to upgrade the slave cylinder/TOB. The current HOWE bearing does not use a spring and has inconsistent pedal travel/engagement. Tick finally released one for a LS/TKX

TKX Clutch Hydraulic Conversion Kit

Late model performance specialists, offering parts at competitive prices, LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 LS9 LSX

www.tickperformance.com

I'll probably switch to a twin disc as well. https://www.tickperformance.com/mcl...IKQ1MCLU0LGvQnJgTEmN2m06IHw_uDYULOGS0RUkWJWb4

 

[JohnMc]

I might look over your shoulder and copy your homework on the clutch slave. Mine is vastly, hugely improved with the smaller master cylinder, but the engagement point is inconsistent. Sometimes down low, sometimes in the middle. It's using a stock Camaro T56 slave currently.

 

[mopar318]

I might look over your shoulder and copy your homework on the clutch slave. Mine is vastly, hugely improved with the smaller master cylinder, but the engagement point is inconsistent. Sometimes down low, sometimes in the middle. It's using a stock Camaro T56 slave currently.

Tick should be able to get you setup. The parts are pricey, but I know their stuff works as it should.

 

[mopar318]

I was running the stock 165-amp alternator, and it was working fine until I did some 7,000 rpm pulls. It started squeaking really bad. It was also giving eratic voltage from 13.5 to 14.5 up and down. I pulled off the alternator and took it apart. The shaft was bent by .10" overall.

I grabbed a 335-1068 AC Delco 105 amp from Amazon for $87. Pinned the connector to match the old alternator and we are back in action. Put about 100 miles on it on Sunday with the new alternator to make sure it can keep up with the fans and electronics. It's holding a steady 14.3-14.4 and 14.1v with the fans running, with a set point of 14.4. It's also 16v compatible, if I ever want to go with a 16v system.