It would be great if we could figure out some of the brake science in layman's terms. I have read car magazines for 20 years now and always laugh when I see the $1400 big brake kit go on a car and provide very minimal or even worse stopping distances.
Some of the issues seem to be whether the brakes are reproportioned front to rear, whether a full kit that includes new front and rear brakes is used, and of course, the pads that are used. I have seen the data on the Volvo 240 proportioning valve before. I think the specs have something to do with ensuring safe braking on a fully loaded car. For performance purposes, altering the proportioning and thus the bias, reportedly can make a very noticeable difference. It can also cause potentially life threatening problems if the new specs are used under conditions for which they are not intended.
Brake pedal feel is another big issue. It can be altered when you fit big brakes that have different total piston areas, unless you change the master cylinder. You can change caliper piston area, the master cylinder, or both, to dramatically change pedal feel. Where there is power assist, the balance can be more complex.
I was planning to fit a set of front and rear Wilwoods, using custom spacers, and custom hats (Wilwood does not make any 5 x 4.25 bolt pattern hats so they would have to be Wilwood blanks that were drilled) and Wilwood rotors. With the aluminum calipers and hats, there is a significant savings in unsprung weight. We have a set of front and rear Wilwoods on a BMW 635 and they work really well. The better 4 piston Wilwood calipers cost only about $160 each. 6 piston calipers are expensive. I think I could use the better 4 piston units in the front and the lower level 4 piston units in the rear.
We also need to figure out how much brake we need. Is 12 inch enough for a 3000 lb car? Do we need 13 inch? I don't really know. I'd rather not buy too much more than I need. To fit 13 or 14 inch brakes, you need big wheels. Big wheels ride worse and weigh more, so I'd rather stick with a maximum of 17 inch diameter for my 745T. Obviously, people's needs will change depending on how they use their cars. I have never overheated my brakes, so I don't drive that hard. I would be looking for just a reduction in stopping distance from speed. I don't need to repeat it 10 times in a row without fade like a roadracer might on a fast tough course.
Philip Bradley
Some of the issues seem to be whether the brakes are reproportioned front to rear, whether a full kit that includes new front and rear brakes is used, and of course, the pads that are used. I have seen the data on the Volvo 240 proportioning valve before. I think the specs have something to do with ensuring safe braking on a fully loaded car. For performance purposes, altering the proportioning and thus the bias, reportedly can make a very noticeable difference. It can also cause potentially life threatening problems if the new specs are used under conditions for which they are not intended.
Brake pedal feel is another big issue. It can be altered when you fit big brakes that have different total piston areas, unless you change the master cylinder. You can change caliper piston area, the master cylinder, or both, to dramatically change pedal feel. Where there is power assist, the balance can be more complex.
I was planning to fit a set of front and rear Wilwoods, using custom spacers, and custom hats (Wilwood does not make any 5 x 4.25 bolt pattern hats so they would have to be Wilwood blanks that were drilled) and Wilwood rotors. With the aluminum calipers and hats, there is a significant savings in unsprung weight. We have a set of front and rear Wilwoods on a BMW 635 and they work really well. The better 4 piston Wilwood calipers cost only about $160 each. 6 piston calipers are expensive. I think I could use the better 4 piston units in the front and the lower level 4 piston units in the rear.
We also need to figure out how much brake we need. Is 12 inch enough for a 3000 lb car? Do we need 13 inch? I don't really know. I'd rather not buy too much more than I need. To fit 13 or 14 inch brakes, you need big wheels. Big wheels ride worse and weigh more, so I'd rather stick with a maximum of 17 inch diameter for my 745T. Obviously, people's needs will change depending on how they use their cars. I have never overheated my brakes, so I don't drive that hard. I would be looking for just a reduction in stopping distance from speed. I don't need to repeat it 10 times in a row without fade like a roadracer might on a fast tough course.
Philip Bradley