Cam seals on a V70/S60R

[isaac]

So I?m about to do this job on my 04 V70R and am pretty intimidated by the dual adjustable timing gears. Is there a trick to really making sure those things are set right and aren?t misadjusted? Thanks!

 

[MasterBlaster]

So I?m about to do this job on my 04 V70R and am pretty intimidated by the dual adjustable timing gears. Is there a trick to really making sure those things are set right and aren?t misadjusted? Thanks!

First, install Volvo special tool 9995451 through the proper hole in the block to lock the crankshaft in position.

Then install Volvo special tool 9995452 onto the non-sprocket ends of the camshafts to lock them in position. You'll need it to torque the VVT sprocket unit retainer bolts to 120nm (88 ft-lbs). And also to loosen them (feels like a LOT more than 88).

Then do the rest of the complicated and precision stuff.

 

[GTJordan]

Honestly, I never lock the crank. In fact, I don't think the VIDA instructions even tell you to lock the crank. Turn the crank until the line lines up and you can get the cam tool on. Then just don't touch the crank.

Jordan

 

[isaac]

Mmbien

 

[Kjets On a Plane]

Honestly, I never lock the crank. In fact, I don't think the VIDA instructions even tell you to lock the crank. Turn the crank until the line lines up and you can get the cam tool on. Then just don't touch the crank.

Jordan

This, tho had one green-horn mech second guess/not trust the crank mark (which isn't always TDC on #1 except on the 4-hole S40 whiteblock?) & use a chopstick to put #1 @ TDC, do a T-belt & bend uhhh...IDK...something close to all 24 valves?
I couldn't believe the engine started looking back on it/noises it made after the fact!

'murika idiocracy / elroy FTW?

Tho that one was particularly funny to me because it takes a certain kinda foreknowledge/imagination to even think to do that, but also not refer back to the factory manual or check with the spark plugs out that it spun over no resistance/bending of valves or something by hand gently once the t-belt was on IDK?

Poor kid just outta auto-tech school finally fessed up to it.
Nice kid, didn't get fired, but did have to go source a head on his time (pistons survived that little mis-adventure) & recondition it.
One of my favorite bumper sticker slogans applies I think?
"oh no!,
not another learning experience!"

I don't use the crank lock tool, either, but technically I suppose if you use both cam & crank lock tools, you can't get it 'wrong,' easily...tho where there's a will & smarter (deviant/imaginative?) idiots, there's gotta be a way!

 

[isaac]

Far out. I was gonna keep the car in gear and pull the parking brake.

I was more interested in the variable timing gears since they have to be reclocked on the way back together.

 

[linuxman51]

I outsourced that operation myself.

 

[GTJordan]

Far out. I was gonna keep the car in gear and pull the parking brake.

I was more interested in the variable timing gears since they have to be reclocked on the way back together.[/QUOTE

You need the cam lock tool.

Turn the crank until the bottom line lines up and the VVT marks line up with the marks on the cover. Roughly, It doesn't need to be BANG on.

Remove the rear cam sensors and reflector wheels. See if you can turn the crank back and forth enough to get the cam tool on (separate it at the center) then you can mount the two pieces of the cam lock on each cam, rotate the crank until they touch, then lock the center of the tool.

Loosen and remove timing belt.

Remove center bolts for the cam gears and remove cam gears (VVTs) (oil will spill out).

Install cam seals.

Install the cam gears (VVTs). ONLY put the center screws in finger tight.

Install timing belt.

SET THE TENSION on the belt with the VVT cam marks as close as you can get them to the marks on the cam cover as possible.

Once the belt is tensioned, set the torque of the center bolts on the cam gears (VVTs).

Remove cam lock tool.

Reinstall all components.

You're done.

I left out the aux belt, covers, wiring harness you have to move out of the way. But that is all pretty straight forward.

Jordan

 

[MasterBlaster]

Honestly, I never lock the crank.

I don't use the crank lock tool, either

Not sure why not... it's right there in the kit on the top shelf, right between the "clamp the head down straight and level" tools.

And at the moment IPD has a kit On Sale for $219.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/104...king-Tool-Set-Whiteblock-for-Volvo-Ipd-121804

 

[GTJordan]

Not sure why not... it's right there in the kit on the top shelf, right between the "clamp the head down straight and level" tools.

And at the moment IPD has a kit On Sale for $219.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/104...king-Tool-Set-Whiteblock-for-Volvo-Ipd-121804

You have to remove the starter to lock the crank. Why spend all of that time doing something that you don't need to do?

And again, I'm 99% sure the Vida instructions do not mention locking the crank. But I haven't had to look at the instructions for cam seals in probably 10 years.

 

[MasterBlaster]

You have to remove the starter to lock the crank. Why spend all of that time doing something that you don't need to do?

And again, I'm 99% sure the Vida instructions do not mention locking the crank.

I guess working on other people's cars in a shop, we try not to just "wing it" and hope for the best. If there's a procedure called out, we follow it.

So, if our ALLDATA says:

Remove the starter motor mounting screws.
Pull out the starter motor and put to one side.
Remove the blind cover plug from the hole for the adjustment tool.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise slightly.
Install adjustment tool 999 5451 ADJUSTMENT TOOL
Ensure that the tool bottoms out against the engine block.
Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until it stops against the adjustment tool.
Check that the marking on the crankshaft timing gear pulley corresponds with the marking on the oil pump.

Then that's exactly what we do.

There's other things like:

Note! Crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned more than is stated in the method description!
If the shafts are turned in any other way the valves may be damaged.

For some reason, the boss man doesn't feel like having to replace a head or an entire engine if something goes wrong because a procedure was skipped. Liability and all that. Plus, I don't feel like getting fired.

But, for an owner working on his own car under a tent, feel free do do it any way you like.

 

[Kjets On a Plane]

^You're not 'wrong,' but if it's auto-tragic & you don't move the crank/roll it over by hand after or are reasonably confident you can remember that the crank isn't 'locked,' it's fairly low risk to skip the crank pinning, no?

It has a mark behind the crank pulley that's fairly fool-proof, after all, eh?

They still kinda make me nervous / all those neglected beat to hell whiteblocks with rattly VVT gears or clogged solenoids with cheap oil not changed on time to inspect for...various things...now that we're ~30 years into the whiteblock saga...
...& ~20 years into outright Ford controlling share/american business model top-down slow implementation/imposition...
...& ~10 years into the Ford-Geely hand/spin-off...
...what's the next turn in the road?

At least we still have a Volvo-only dealership that's been here since 1957...
...can't say the same if ya got a...SCAAB?

 

[MasterBlaster]

...can't say the same if ya got a...SCAAB?

I get the feeling I'll be the "lucky" SOB that gets to do a timing chain on the 2000 9-3 waiting outside.
I assume it's the "SAAB Cam Timing Kit" box a couple of rows to the right.

 

[Kjets On a Plane]

^All I see is access to ~$50K(+?) in tools?

Bad news: You're low man on the totem pole partnership in grime?
(someone's gotta do the diagnosis & repairs/work)
Someone's gotta know how to deal w/those cars & will be the big weiner of that 'prize' / 'cornered' market.

 

[GTJordan]

I guess working on other people's cars in a shop, we try not to just "wing it" and hope for the best. If there's a procedure called out, we follow it.



But, for an owner working on his own car under a tent, feel free do do it any way you like.

I'm a Shop Foreman at a Volvo dealership and we follow Volvo's VIDA instructions. Hence why I suggested VIDA has no mention of locking the crank when doing the Cam seals. I don't know what AllData (Halfdata?) says.

Since starting in 2006, we've never had a bent valve without locking the crank.

I am all for following the instructions YOU have at your hand.

Jordan

 

[Harlard]

Honestly, I never lock the crank. In fact, I don't think the VIDA instructions even tell you to lock the crank. Turn the crank until the line lines up and you can get the cam tool on. Then just don't touch the crank.

Jordan

Mmbien

Yep, I didn't bother on the ol' P2. The location is a gigantic pain in the dong to access, too.

EDIT: wanna buy my special tool? $45 shipped and it's yours.

 

[isaac]

You need the cam lock tool
…
You're done.

I left out the aux belt, covers, wiring harness you have to move out of the way. But that is all pretty straight forward.

Jordan

I really appreciate the step by step. This is how I’m gonna do it. Hope I can be in and out without anything breaking and hopefully less than a day.

 

[isaac]

I finally did this job as per what Jordan said and it all worked out, though parts of it were a pain in the ass. Timing it up while putting it back together I ended up centering the cams directly in the middle of the zone of adjustability they had, right on the timing marks, which took a while.

It's also insane to me that Volvo doesn't have a keyway or locating pin to locate how the center of the VVT hub connects to the end of the cam. You just have to torque the **** out of it and pray it doesn't ever get slightly loose. This step alone makes the cam lock tool absolutely essential.

BTW this seal on the back of the VVT hub, about an inch and a half in diameter, and maybe 1.5mm thick, is critical to replace. It ended up being what was bad. I had not planned on replacing it because barely anything mentions it. The cam seals were actually fine and very pliable, basically like new, but the seals on the back of the VVT hub were dried up and flattened significantly and required to hold back very high oil pressure, so I know they were passing oil. You can right now buy them for $7 on ebay for a pair of them, which is one of very few places on the internet where they're easy to find, let alone for cheap.

FCP also has the actual green ones that look OEM but might not be (my originals were so old they were completely black but scraped it off to reveal green), and they're only $9.99 each

Reading about the VVT hub wear I strongly considered buying a new one for the exhaust cam (more than $300 right now) but after I went to the junkyard and literally all four hubs I pulled had identical in-out play (measured with the letters on a penny) compared to my exhaust hub I said screw it and reused the old one. If they were actually worn at about 3.25mm it doesn't make sense they'd all be identical.

 

[GTJordan]

Can't say I've ever changed those seals. But honestly, I don't do many cam seal replacements.

I can't remember if I/someone mentioned above, but have you checked your PCV?

Also, if you're north of 120K miles, you should change the PCV banjo bolt under the intake manifold.

Jordan

 

[isaac]

Yeah I've checked and cleaned the everloving **** out of the PCV early on after it started leaking though I might need to check again. I've only driven this car a total of about 30,000 miles in 5 years so not an awful lot of mileage added past the last PCV check. The car has 239,000 miles on it.