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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

Absolutely nothing better than car-parts-delivery-day!
My Gsellstr GM bellhousing adapter and DeeWorks.ca torque converter adapter both showed up at the same time.

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Now, all I need is a transmission...torque converter...driveshaft...fuel injection...boost...etc.
 
...and of course, since I just got my GM adapters, a 1995 940 NA wagon shows up at my local scrappy. I spent the morning pulling the transmission, so I now have an AW-71L, as identified on the tag :).

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It needs a rebuild, but I've done that before. The big problem is that the pan has been punctured, and the dipstick is FUBAR'd at the fitting. I hope I can find those things new or slightly used...
 
Love this project! Keep up the good work, and I look forward to your updates.

I've always wanted to take a 245 in this color and make a 240 version of an 850R. Dark grey Pegs and R interior, tinted windows, 5 cylinder whiteblock swap (or better yet an LSX swap), and maybe even an 850 front valence. Maybe one day...
 
I'm in Canada :(.

The AW71L from a 95 940 that I got the other day has turned out to be a good score. No internal damage, and all the clutches come in at 0.089", so I may replace them. I am going to check the gaps between circlips/top plates tomorrow and see how far it's out before I pull the trigger on parts though, since the money tree has died for the year. It's neat to see the big-bearing tailshaft, and the small tube that feeds ATF into it though. There's not much info on that, so I was kinda surprised when I pulled it apart and everything fell out, lol.
 
^I don't think he's too far away. It might be a day's drive, including the border crossings, but, might still be worth getting. About 500 km, so 6 hours or so.

Cool. You'll need to switch to an electronic speedometer from an '86 or newer car, since the Aw71L isn't compatible with a mechanical speedo drive.

-J
 
Well, I pulled the trigger on a full master rebuild kit. My wallet isn't happy...and my wife will be less happy...but it's done. A spare block will have to wait :(.

As far as the speedo goes, for the immediate future I'll just use my spare GPS unit. I don't like being without a working speedo, but I'd much rather have a decent transmission.
 
Went back for the G80 in the 940 today and ran into a couple other volvo guys picking it over. Luckily they were 7/9ers, so didn't need what I was after, haha.

It came out without a hitch, except the races fell off the bearings when I pulled it, so now I don't know which one is for which side. Arg. I suppose I'll just install it, check the backlash, flip them, check again, and take whichever is closest to proper specs. I guess it's kinda moot if I do the job and find my preload is too loose, so I'll worry about it later.

I got it for $24 after tax, because the cashier was new. I even pointed out what it was I was taking, on their price list on the wall. It SHOULD have been $40 + $20 core...AND I had the aluminum pumpkin cover too. Not my fault if dude can't read or use the register :).
 
Got bored, went for a drive. Ended up at St. Albert's cheese factory (locals will know what that is) for some cheese curd. The lineup for poutine was too long, so I just ate in the car. While munching, I found an old stone corner guard in a field, so I figured I'd take a pic. I really need to lower the car...

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No pics, because it's all just junkyard parts.
Last week I was stoked because an 84 GL came into my local scrappy, so I went out and grabbed the driveshaft (AW70)...which is of course the small output flange and 44.5mm diameter. Doesn't fit my late AW71L (of course), so I was kinda miffed. I drove the wife out to Oktoberfest at a local brewery and headed off to Laval (a suburb of Montreal, for anyone familiar with Canadian geography) to the junkyard. It's 2 hours from my house...and it paid off big. Got a big driveshaft AND a salvageable tranny pan! I was able to remove the dipstick tube with no fuss, and the hole they stab into the pans to drain them was easy to weld up. The one in Laval is an 88, so it had the right driveshaft :). I've also snagged a couple of hall-sender distributors for my MS conversion, so I'm pretty happy.
 
Today I decided to start the winter project work, even though there's probably a couple more weeks I could have driven it. This way I can still work with the garage doors open, haha.

Swapped in the EFI fuel level sender with the Airtex mustang pump, and was pleasantly surprised to see that all the EFI fuel pump wiring was already there! It's not live, obviously, but I am pretty sure all I need is the factory fuel pump relay, and I'll be good to go (once it's MS'd). Hell, the fuse spot is populated, and the wires are there even :). Next up will be the engine removal to clean the bay and install the AW71L.
 
Yep still no pics in the world's most boring build thread :).

Finished the transmission tonight, and made one dipstick tube out of two. I sure hope my welding is up to snuff, or it could get leaky.

I'm still trying to decide if I should mod my MS1 v2.2 for spark, or just leave it fuel-only, since I know that I won't be boosted next year.
 
PICTURE!
I wanted a separate fuse box for the MS setup, because there's no way I am going to rely on having those silly volvo fuses on hand if something happens.
I checked out the scrappers and found that the Kia Sportage has a nice little fusebox, and it was pretty easy to sort out for universal use :).

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Note: When making a 'quick' harness to get 12v to your MS1 v2.2 in order to update the firmware...the 12v 'in' is pin 28.
NOT PIN 26.

If you send 12v in on pin 26, you explode a trace, and possibly damage a few other things. Sigh.

So far everything checks out, but I need a replacement C21 cap, since I broke one of the legs removing it from the board to test. The voltage reg is fine, and the 40pin socket is powered up properly, but there currently is no VCC or Vref, probably due to the missing cap. Always double check your work.
 
...and the answer is...: dead processor.
With the processor out, every part of the board tests perfectly fine. The minute I installed the chip, the board failed everything except the batt volt ref checks. Luckily they're cheap, so there's already an order in to DIY for a replacement :).

I removed the fuel level assembly again, to put clamps on the pump to sender hose (oops, forgot) and it's a good thing I did. The level sender had snapped off the return pipe! I tacked it back into place and decided to make fuel pump work 110% easier in the future. I took a grinder and cut down the hump that the factory access panel is on. I went down about two inches, and then cut across. Now it's VERY easy to take the pump in and out, and the part I cut out is now part of the access hatch. To hell with fighting with fuel pumps.
 
Get some of the small Corona center caps and some chrome Virgo lugnuts... That's what I've done. On the rear suspension, a pair of wagon springs will get rid of the saggy butt syndrome. Need to do that on my 242.

-J
 
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