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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

And of course the truck alternator whacks the hood quite a bit. I'd totally move the engine forward a bit to make it fit (it's hitting a hood support now) but then I'd need to do more work to make the shifter fit, need a longer driveshaft, and possibly have more issues with the steering shaft.

I've got a walbro 255 coming next week for the tank and now I've ordered the ICT low-mount alternator/PS swap bracket kit too. I'm going to have a LOT of explaining to do when multiple FedEx trucks arrive.

As soon as all this nonsense is over, the harness gets laid in and hopefully I can fire it up.
 
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Got the ICT Billet alt/ps relocation brackets installed. Having to drill an undrilled boss is a bit nervy, but it went super easy. I made a spacer for the truck throttle cable at the firewall so I was able to re-use it. I like using stock stuff just in case I need a replacement. I do have a chinese Lokar clone on the way though, just in case.

Tomorrow I wire up the starter and alternator, and maybe turn the key to make sure everything works.
 
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Starter and alternator wired up. I re-used the truck harness starter-alt-batt section with a bit of shortening. It cranks from the key now, and dang it cranks fast. The only comment I have to make is that poly engine mounts are...firm. It should be interesting to see how they are when the engine is running. Tomorrow I am going to tidy up all the loose ends and probably begin the harness install.
 
I am a broken man. I spent 5 hours contorted under the dash installing the aftermarket harness and sorting random issues...only to find the crossover fuel rail pipe was accidentally caught in the crosshairs of my grinder-shaving of the intake manifold to get the hood to close. Fuel everywhere was a surprise, lol. I also need to make ONE extra long plug wire since the stocker won't fit the angled coil I had to make to clear the booster. The broken comes into play because my back and knees are now on fire, sigh.

The good news is that the ecu sends data to the OBD gauge I have for testing, so all it needs is fuel and hopefully it will fire up.
 
Dude, you are crushing it with this swap!

Thanks man! I finally feel like I'm getting back to normal and my motivation has kicked into high gear. The past two months sucked hard.

no kidding. came back from the spine thing with a vengeance.

It bugged me to no end that I was supposed to have been done months ago. The minute I felt I could push through the remaining infection/pain...I had to finish or I was going to go crazy. 2 months in bed...UGH.

I want your energy

I want more of it! Right now after two or three hours in the garage, I'm completely exhausted and sore :(. Still not 100% but it's better than last month, haha.


Thanks for the compliments everyone. I'm so stoked to hear it run, even on 7 cyls, that I keep going out to the garage to fire it up. It's open-manifolds currently, so I'm in genuine danger of being kicked out of town from the noise, lol. DON'T CARE! :D

I have an appointment at the Heart Institute for an ECC tomorrow, and then my LAST appointment with the Infectious Disease unit at the hospital on thurs, and after that my life will almost be normal again. I don't ever want to go through this sort of thing again, so fingers crossed.
 
Got the parts on the way to make the clutch pedal stop, an extra long plug wire, and a neat little CEL for the dash (because stock ecu). I have a list of things to wire up still, like the tach and VSS, because I aim to have everything but the exhaust done before I go back to work (probably Dec 1).
 
I'M FREE! For the first time since Aug 30, I'm not sick and I don't have a PICC line anymore! It was a nightmare and now it's all gone (sorta, still a bit of leftover muscle pain). I can move on and plan my return to work (not that I want to...lol).
 
Thanks! It feels awesome to have my arm back, lol.

Update!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qqgymOtX1Y4" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Let me know if this isn't visible, I'm trying to fake out 'Youtube Shorts' by doubling up the video, lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqgymOtX1Y4
 
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Figured out that a LOT of pre-2000 Chevy/GMC products came with an alt that will bolt up and has the third mounting point for the ICT brackets I'm using. 2000 GMC Safari with the 4.3, junkyard cheap :).
 
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Swapped to the 2010 Camaro water pump to make it easier to route the coolant hoses AND the intake piping. I caused myself some grief by not getting the thermostat housing with the pump because I thought the GenIII one would fit.

Spoiler alert...it didn't. The GenIV water pumps (2008+) have a WIDER bolt pattern. Gen3 is 76mm, Gen4 is 78mm! The 2010 Camaro thermostat won't even fit into the Gen3 outlet...trust me, I tried. This info is almost nowhere and if you try to find the 2010 Camaro housing...the number doesn't exist on any GM parts diagram. The F-body outlet has a different angle than the truck outlet so luckily there's a Dorman truck part number and I can confirm it fits perfectly since I used it in the pic above. It's 902-2081, and it's for 2008+ Gen4 water pumps. I bought the 2010 Camaro tensioner too, since the Gen3 one wouldn't fit, and ended up with an 81" belt.

Maybe I'm just the one out of the loop, but when I tried looking for the answer, all I could find is "I don't know, maybe it's manufacturing differences, just hog out the holes and bolt it up". Finally TexasSpeed came to the rescue with a product for the wider pattern, and it traced back to a company that had the info explaining the 76 vs 78 mm thing.
 
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Power steering hoses installed (and heat-shielded), core support and rad installed, and the intake done. Not thrilled about the hot-air intake but it'll do. I am waiting for some hoses to finish the cooling sytem, and when that's finished...it's time to fill/bleed the clutch and see if it rolls.
 
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