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Cheap lh 2.3l power

sedated brick

sedated brick

New member
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Nov 20, 2024
I have a lh 2.3l, NA i could potentially get my hands on parts to turbo my car for around 300 dollars, however I want to make more power
I have a 1990 245, M47, with a ridiculously long gear ratio, everything is stock except some IPD suspension parts.
If i were to have a budget of $1000-$1500 how could i maximize performance.

I was thinking of getting a VX cam from IPD or maybe a Penta cam from KL racing
 
I know there is a bunch of information on the +T's for the N/A blocks. I did a basic +T with a small 12b, stock intercooler and turbo ecu's. I'm in the process of searching for more power and will be upgrading the turbo and rods.
 
The stickied NA performance thread has everything you need to know without getting in over your head. The VX cam is trash. It's barely a "performance cam". What's the KLR Penta cam, are you talking about the H grind they sell? To get any real gains you're going to have to remove the cylinder head at a minimum.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
The stickied NA performance thread has everything you need to know without getting in over your head. The VX cam is trash. It's barely a "performance cam". What's the KLR Penta cam, are you talking about the H grind they sell? To get any real gains you're going to have to remove the cylinder head at a minimum.
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how do i distinguish the difference between different cams? A buddy of mine was telling me to get a penta cam.
Also would i have to change the cylinder head to make more of a difference?
 
sedated brick said:
how do i distinguish the difference between different cams?
Click to expand...
They're lettered on the back.

shoestring

Thread 'We measured Redblock cam valve events; here's what we got.'

So for years and years now, there's been no reference as to any kind of real, hard data concerning the redblock cams as far as, well, anything. The duration figures we have, what lift value is it? How does one manufacturer compare to another? If you do get some kind of info, it's often at some mystery measurement. As someone who values data versus speculation, it's been a challenge.

Anyways, we took matters into our own hands and measured up 5 of the 6 cams we have access to and put it all in a Google sheet which I'll share here. Here's what we did:

Installed each cam in my '91...
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There's a google spreadsheet in this thread that shows in depth what the valves are doing for each and every OE cam (minus X and Y) and some popular aftermarket grinds. I like to think of cams as what the head is doing, and less-so a cast iron spinny stick.
sedated brick said:
A buddy of mine was telling me to get a penta cam.
Click to expand...
Penta is the marine branch of Volvo, there's probably half a dozen cams that came in marine sohc redblocks. A,V,K,H,D, etc...
sedated brick said:
Also would i have to change the cylinder head to make more of a difference?
Click to expand...
Not to change, but to deck 1mm+ to up the compression. Deshrouding the valves in the combustion chamber and blending the port through the bowl and to the throat is also important. I don't think a lot of the hotter OE cams play well in an "unopened" B230F, especially with an automatic (hence why the VX is popular, even though it performs poorly). For instance I had a B in a stock B230F and I thought the idle was a deal breaker, even my wife complained. I have an H in my car now with a worked over head and it idles nicer than some M cammed B230F's I've encountered.
 
Just sell me your 245...

Only kidding, sounds like you're on a fun path! I've found the google search "site:turbobricks.com" is super useful for finding older articles about power adding.

Going +t is definitely the easiest and most documented route. As others have said, if you want a bit more out of the stock motor, a cam is a good choice. I like the A and B cams, the stock M cam neuters the motor after 4k or so (others feel free to correct me) so the motor can rev a bit higher. Wheels and tires can also really help with that performance feel, especially since you've got some suspension bits already done.

There's a user on here who sells +t kits, @white855T I believe. I bought my turbo bits from him, he's aces. Do you know if you have lh2.4 or 3.1? You'd want to consider some chippable ECU/Ignition boxes if you have 2.4, not sure what options 3.1 has though.

Start a project thread and post some pics dude!!
 
You're good, we've all been there! The google search function works wonders, stick with key words and check the sticky threads. After that don't be afraid to jump into the deep end! Hardest part for the +t assuming you don't pull the motor is drilling the block or pan for an oil drain. Folks have gone both routes but seems like the pan route is preferred as it's much easier.
 
Great thing with the redblock is they last a long time with proper care making a lot more power than delivered with. When I was into air cooled VW they were great for making more power than stock. But they never lasted that long for me.
 
sedated brick said:
I know some people out of town who are willing to give me chips for free.

I have a lh2.4
its a lot of stuff i have to do my research on, this is my first project volvo
Click to expand...
The first thing you need to do is figure out what power level you are trying to achieve. The 8 valve redblock engine is not capable of making the kind of power modern engines are making in naturally aspirated form. If you are after anything more than 140-150 hp in a nice daily driver, you better go with turbocharging the engine. It is relatively easy to hit 200 hp and still have a nice mannered daily driver.
 
You can get about 25-30 more hp easily n/a. With a turbo you can get 50hp or more easily if you tune it and set it up well. The turbo 200-250hp range is a nice power range for these cars. Plus that's a reasonably priced level of performance.
 
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