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Corivus' 1991 740SE v8 swap

lookforjoe said:
What did you do for the Volvo OP and coolant gauge senders? Do they need an adaptor for the stock GM block & head location?
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I havne't gotten there yet, I was originally thinking of just running the sensors to an aftermarket pod on my pillar mount but I wouldn't mind using an adapter to run them on the stock volvo sensors
 
corivus said:
I havne't gotten there yet, I was originally thinking of just running the sensors to an aftermarket pod on my pillar mount but I wouldn't mind using an adapter to run them on the stock volvo sensors
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Understood.

Hey Corivus - another question - did you have to deal with a VATS bypass of some kind? My drivetrain is 2004 - looks the same as yours - did you need to address that? Can't seem to get a definitive answer.
 
So after responding to someone on FB about shifter linkage I realized the hodgepodge setup I made was lost when the DB had to be restored for TB. That said I'll try and explain whats going on in the photos I'm including on this post.

This was the adapter we made to run the GM trans mount something super simple that thelostartof welded up for me.
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I originally used the Chevy silverado shift cable and discovered that its waaaaaay to long. I looked into getting a custom one made by a driveline shop and apparrently no one will fabricate custom ones locally anymore. Before going off and finding somewhere online I checked on v8volvos and one of the members mentioned the Dodge charger shifter cable worked for him perfectly. Thats where this comes into play, it looks long but it really only loops about a foot or so and I think I've managed to find a way to keep it from getting in the way of anything.

HyofJQB.jpg


Now that I had the cable all figured out I needed to secure it so I could adjust it. So after some cardboard cutting I came up with the following.


This would hold the shifter cable in place at the transmission, its not pretty but not many people are going to be looking at it. And no... I haven't thought of making a second mounting point at least 3 times a day.
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Next is the mounting point for where the cable mounts to the shifter and secures to the body. this is where I had the most space to give it some play so I could manually adjust the cable position when shifting.

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I think that covers my shift cable setup? I'm using the stock volvo shifter mostly because I wanted to have as stock of a feel as possible from the inside.
 
lookforjoe said:
Understood.

Hey Corivus - another question - did you have to deal with a VATS bypass of some kind? My drivetrain is 2004 - looks the same as yours - did you need to address that? Can't seem to get a definitive answer.
Click to expand...

Yes I had brandon at lt1swap disable it I spoke with him over the phone and then sent him my pcm to remove all the things that wouldn't be needed. the big plus is he does not lock his tunes which is great if you are like me and down the road want to get your feet wet in tuning a bit more heavily then just using diyautotune.
 
corivus said:
Yes I had brandon at lt1swap disable it I spoke with him over the phone and then sent him my pcm to remove all the things that wouldn't be needed. the big plus is he does not lock his tunes which is great if you are like me and down the road want to get your feet wet in tuning a bit more heavily then just using diyautotune.
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OK - I'll need to contact him about that & all the emissions/EVAP stuff I don't need.
 
corivus said:
So after responding to someone on FB about shifter linkage I realized the hodgepodge setup I made was lost when the DB had to be restored for TB. That said I'll try and explain whats going on in the photos I'm including on this post.

I originally used the Chevy silverado shift cable and discovered that its waaaaaay to long. I looked into getting a custom one made by a driveline shop and apparrently no one will fabricate custom ones locally anymore. Before going off and finding somewhere online I checked on v8volvos and one of the members mentioned the Dodge charger shifter cable worked for him perfectly. Thats where this comes into play, it looks long but it really only loops about a foot or so and I think I've managed to find a way to keep it from getting in the way of anything.

I think that covers my shift cable setup? I'm using the stock volvo shifter mostly because I wanted to have as stock of a feel as possible from the inside.
Click to expand...


Any specific year Charge/trans? Do you have a part number? I think I'll copy you on this - I want to keep the stock shifter. Unless there is a shorter cable option, yours looks good. Nice work on figuring out the bracketry.

You driveshaft looks like it not seated in the trans very far?
 
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lookforjoe said:
Any specific year Charger? I think I'll copy you on this - I want to keep the stock shifter. Unless there is a shorter cable option, yours looks good. Nice work on figuring out the bracketry.

You driveshaft looks like it not seated in the trans very far?
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So I used one out of a 6th gen charger (Challengers and Chrysler 300's work as well) so I'm not sure about the 7th gen ones. but it was pretty easy to just walk into the first yard and find 7 different 6th gens in the yard.


And yes i thought the same and have tried seating it in without anything connected and can't get it to go further in then that. the gm end I used was the one that "came" with it and stuck out that far as well no matter how many times I tried to reseat it.
 
corivus said:
So I used one out of a 6th gen charger (Challengers and Chrysler 300's work as well) so I'm not sure about the 7th gen ones. but it was pretty easy to just walk into the first yard and find 7 different 6th gens in the yard.


And yes i thought the same and have tried seating it in without anything connected and can't get it to go further in then that. the gm end I used was the one that "came" with it and stuck out that far as well no matter how many times I tried to reseat it.
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Can you clarify "6th gen" I don't know anything about American cars. If you can give me a year I'll research that - I'm assuming for auto trans? There are no JY in my region any more - they all went away with the EPA land cleanup of the late 80's.

The driveshaft seats all the way in my trans, up to the yoke. How much insertion depth do you have?
 
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lookforjoe said:
Can you clarify "6th gen" I don't know anything about American cars. If you can give me a year I'll research that - I'm assuming for auto trans?

The driveshaft seats all the way in my trans, up to the yoke. How much insertion depth do you have?
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2006-2010

I'll check when i'm finally back at the shop with covid haven't been there all week to poke at anything.
 
Ok so things left to do/address:

Pull engine and trans and widen the tunnel a bit more
While engine is out switch out the oil pan with a lower profile pan - Speaking with one of the v8volvo fb guys he said the gen 4 pan worked perfect for his application. I do have the low profile one from sts machining that I may try out but i'll see if I can grab a gen 4 pan as well to see which fits better.
Clean up the wiring harness and sheath and heat shield were needed.
Finish the exhaust - this is really going to be all thelostartof since I can't weld to save my life.
Figure out issue with loss of pedal signal to the throttle body - possible tac module or ground issue
Pull the driveshaft and try to reseat it, possibly have it modified again
Hook up Tach signal - modification thread https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=364664 (thanks lookforjoe for finding this)
Redo my Trans Oil cooler lines - I really liked how clean lookforjoe's lines were so I think I will copy that route and switch to all AN lines.
Modify the hood (yes this was always the plan, I do want to go turbo at some point)
Address hoooking up the a/c system (needs a key on power source for all of the sensors and then G2G)

I think thats it... but I may add more down the road.
 
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I actually do not remember, once I'm back home in tempe I'll take a look at my notes and see if I wrote that down as it was something that gave me pause as well.
 
lookforjoe said:
Revised the link, the way you posted it it didn't work

Do you know where the range selector wires go to? They weren't part of the main harness on mine, and I can't figure out from the LT1 post where they even go to.

index.php


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ok looked back on my notes and apparently I didn't have that issue as my harness came from the same year as his so it wasn't something I noted. I will say I'm going to be pulling the engine and trans hopefully next week if its slow enough at work (I didn't schedule any one this week so it should be) so once I have the harness I'll poke at it to see where those go if you haven't already figured it out.
 
corivus said:
ok looked back on my notes and apparently I didn't have that issue as my harness came from the same year as his so it wasn't something I noted. I will say I'm going to be pulling the engine and trans hopefully next week if its slow enough at work (I didn't schedule any one this week so it should be) so once I have the harness I'll poke at it to see where those go if you haven't already figured it out.
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Many thanks! I don't have any clue yet how to combine the range switch wires. On Tues I can call the company I bought the standalone harness from, and ask them also.
 
Finally back at work but it was a bit to busy to do anything to the volvo but I am trying to decide if I should go for stock silver look on my rims (driver side) or the polished aluminum with black highlights (passenger side) or just throw my hands up in the air and paint them gold.
edit: yes i'm aware the grill is angled weird, it was just in place to see how much I need to trim off the trans cooler bracket.
 

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I am leaning towards the silver, its cleaner looking, these rims are originally from an Audi with classic volvo center caps adapted to fit on the rims. they need to all be repainted either way so I might prep them all for that.
 
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