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D24 lost timing belt...

northman said:
this here is the quality post a forum is meant to provide, thankee kindly
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You must think you’re on Brickboard. This is TurboBricks. You're lucky that there are a few folks here that are into diesels. I just sold my diesel wagon to someone that loves diesels. He now has a 1991 245 diesel and a 740 Turbo diesel sedan. Good luck with your car.
 
fatcatbestcat said:
If the whole thing is coming apart, that's a good time to reseal the injection pump. I tried to be lazy and replace the one leaky seal on mine and it just started leaking out of another one. Good idea for a car that gets driven often, a leaky pump loses its prime fast and then you burn the starter motor out trying to build pressure.

The PO of mine just rigged up an electric fuel pump to prime the VE, but that's kind of a bandaid solution to a car leaking fuel out from the front.
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I have found that the small cover on the bottom starboard side of the pump seems to be the most prone to leaks (It's a simple O-Ring underneath)...also needs the pump to be removed to replace, so good time to do that as well.

If you want to get a little more power from the engine when everything is back together time the pump between .90mm and .95mm (.95mm is pretty loud, FYI) Also use the thinnest MLS head gasket possible (After measuring deck height)

Also, just a heads-up, the bottom, rear nut on the rear exhaust manifold, may or may not be a total PITA to remove...some are, some aren't.
 
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VolvoScout said:
I have found that the small cover on the bottom starboard side of the pump seems to be the most prone to leaks (It's a simple O-Ring underneath)...also needs the pump to be removed to replace, so good time to do that as well.
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I'm not sure if it actually did anything to help me, but I lapped the side plate before I put it back on. It was definitely not flat when I took it off to replace the seal - this is on the motor side. Pardon the blurry pics, this was back when I used an actual camera for my build thread photography and it was really damn heavy and hard to focus on small objects :lol:

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To my credit, it didn't leak out of that side again. Instead it sprung a leak on the opposite side plate.
 
northman said:
this particular greased brick gets up and scoots well enough without the unnecessary GM small D garbage being involved. never mind its guzzeline, and not Diesel, has a wiring loom to scare away a knitting crazed grandma, and means having to probably source a new trans, rear end, fabricobble suspension and frame just keep the damned thing together. But sure, lets drop 400hp in car that can barely handle 80

Doesn't stop jerks tailgaiting even though she's generally doing 10 over...
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I always get tailgated in a 240
I could be doing 80 and people will get right on my ass
 
Jack said:
I always get tailgated in a 240
I could be doing 80 and people will get right on my ass
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I think its a perception thing, the 240's have a weirdly narrow hind end, so it looks like they are farther away then they really are.

still annoying as Frig though.
YE Ole Diesel will happily do 70 when the overdrive cooperates, gets a little rattley and can get a wee warm in just 4th though.

Its radiator has seen better days too, so its got several tubes sealed off... so its can get a little warm on long hills and higher speeds... has several more that continue to leak, probably should source a good one while I'm at it.
 
I'm surprised to hear of a D24 200 series still in use as a daily driver and outside of some diehard diesel fanatic who's willing to overlook its laundry list of failings. Hopefully you can find all the parts and special tools it's gonna need
 
RAPTOR479 said:
I'm surprised to hear of a D24 200 series still in use as a daily driver and outside of some diehard diesel fanatic who's willing to overlook its laundry list of failings. Hopefully you can find all the parts and special tools it's gonna need
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its the Wifey's hoopty... she's gainfully unemployed but drives it 3-6 days a week running errands, couple of big stoopid mutts in the back to keep her company... not to mention rescuing my hairy A when one of the trucks throws a fit and needs towed

It had a recent rebuild when we bought it... 12 years ago... it has issues, but most of them are a matter of me having enough time to fix em, I also run a logging/excavation/welding/machining/land clearing business, so I usually end up fixing my trucks/equipment vs doing actual maintenance to her car.

From the looks of the "special tools" I can make most of them fairly easily, the cam alignment tool is dirt simple, the pump locator is just a pin. the only mildly difficult one, and one I hope to avoid needing is for setting the advance on the pump, which is basically just a hollow bolt with a dial indicator, I have several indicators, and can probably even make do without the special adapter, but I also have a mill and a lathe, so making them will certainly be cheaper then sourcing them.
All that said, I would like to find the enginerd that decided spade connectors on EVERYTHING was a neeto idear and kick them in the squishy parts, as well as whoever is behind the burned out light sensor abortion...
 
Well earlier cars had soldered on bullet connectors. Those were even more prone to corrode than the spade connectors.
I'd suggest browse the archive at OZVolvo.org/archive to see if the D24 green book is there. That usually has good pictures and part numbers of the tools needed.
 
welp, finally managed to tear into it today,
Cam is in a couple few pieces, and looks like one of the valve retainers is loose?

So... new head it is.
 
got ta get it out and on the stand first

anybody know if you can unbolt the bell housing insitu and pull the motor that way while leaving the main part of the trans behind? or is it just simpler to yard the whole damned thing out?

needs the bellhousing for timing marks etc (and whoever that enginerd is needs a heavy boot to the squishy parts) but I'll be working mostly alone, and pulling trans and engine together can be uh.. problematic...
 
If it's a M46/7 manual, you need to remove the engine in order to get to 4 bolts that hold bellhousing to the trans from the inside. Bellhousing is also trans cover/bearing retainer, oil is going to leak and you're going to need new trans-to bellhousing gasket. Fun stuff.

I'm late to the party, but you seem to be well set shop/equipment-wise. Only thing, even though pump dial indicators are exactly what you understood they are and can make an adapter for an indicator you already have, bear in mind they're less than 100$ online and nice to have in their own box. Speaking as someone who always makes "adapted" tools, then the next time spends days looking for them.

As for timing marks on flywheel, you could skip bellhousing saga just by dial-indicating TDC with head removed and scribing a mark on FW and the block. Bear in mind that there are two marks - O|T and a diamond. OT - TDC in german, used for cam-crank timing, and the diamond is for start of injection timing.

Early engines have 11mm head bolts, newer 12mm. Cams are not the same, bearings are spaced differently apart, make sure you buy cam that you need. Myth that Turbo vs N/A cams are different is just a myth. Your head will have cracks between valves, but they're normal, just have the head hydrotested. If it passes and didn't drop a valve, don't bother replacing it. Light surfacing is fine, no matter what Greenbook tells (prohibited).

I have yet to see a bent rod in one of those.
 
nordmaschine said:
If it's a M46/7 manual, you need to remove the engine in order to get to 4 bolts that hold bellhousing to the trans from the inside. Bellhousing is also trans cover/bearing retainer, oil is going to leak and you're going to need new trans-to bellhousing gasket. Fun stuff.

I'm late to the party, but you seem to be well set shop/equipment-wise. Only thing, even though pump dial indicators are exactly what you understood they are and can make an adapter for an indicator you already have, bear in mind they're less than 100$ online and nice to have in their own box. Speaking as someone who always makes "adapted" tools, then the next time spends days looking for them.

As for timing marks on flywheel, you could skip bellhousing saga just by dial-indicating TDC with head removed and scribing a mark on FW and the block. Bear in mind that there are two marks - O|T and a diamond. OT - TDC in german, used for cam-crank timing, and the diamond is for start of injection timing.

Early engines have 11mm head bolts, newer 12mm. Cams are not the same, bearings are spaced differently apart, make sure you buy cam that you need. Myth that Turbo vs N/A cams are different is just a myth. Your head will have cracks between valves, but they're normal, just have the head hydrotested. If it passes and didn't drop a valve, don't bother replacing it. Light surfacing is fine, no matter what Greenbook tells (prohibited).

I have yet to see a bent rod in one of those.
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well... I have the tools... but internal motor stuff I can be a little dumb (ignorant isn't even the correct term, this is all stuff I've done, just not often enough to be good at it)


of course dialing in the piston to TDC would be WAAAYYYYY easier then the goofy timing marks lol


sometimes a second set of eyes/brain lobes can make a job so much easier

I'm guessing that there will be multiple valves bent, and it does appear that one of the valve retainers has failed, so barring any miracles a new head is in order, need to pull it apart still and see just why the retainer isn't in the right position, but I'm not hopeful at this point.
 
northman said:
well... I have the tools... but internal motor stuff I can be a little dumb (ignorant isn't even the correct term, this is all stuff I've done, just not often enough to be good at it)


of course dialing in the piston to TDC would be WAAAYYYYY easier then the goofy timing marks lol


sometimes a second set of eyes/brain lobes can make a job so much easier

I'm guessing that there will be multiple valves bent, and it does appear that one of the valve retainers has failed, so barring any miracles a new head is in order, need to pull it apart still and see just why the retainer isn't in the right position, but I'm not hopeful at this point.
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6-8 bent is my bet. Still, vales are easier and cheaper to replace than entire head, considering how thin on the ground those heads are, especially ones that aren't cracked. I never put one of those on if I haven't pressure tested it beforehand.
 
Guess who finally got it the motor out of the car...
between everything else falling apart, including me, I've only been able to poke at it a few hours every couple weekends
 
Where are you located? I've got a cheap D24 that is complete and spins/has compression I would sell complete and stick on a pallet.

Friend of mine who is into Audis/VW wants the manual transmission stuff for a RWD swap in a VW truck.
 
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