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240 Dash cover installation

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
Working on an '81 Bertone to replace the cracked dash and the leaking heater core.

Let's do the dash first. Found CleanFlameTrap's dash removal thread: http://cleanflametrap.com/dash.html Thank you Art!

That solves most of the original dash removal issues but leaves the installation of the Coverlay cap to do. Yes, it came with instructions and adhesive but how about some real life experiences in getting this done?

Not having 3-400 pounds of lead shot to act as weights to hold the cap to the dash until the provided glue sets I am wondering how to do this effectively. Thought about cleaning with auto paint cleaner and sanding the old dash to make it smooth, clean and agreeable to adhesives. No telling what wonderful silicone products the previous owner(s) put on the dash in its previous lives. Thought about double backed tape to stick everything together rather than sand bags or lead shot.

Any suggestions appreciate.
 

nel621

Active member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Maybe some 2x4s top and bottom wrapped in towels for cushioning placed strategically and held together with some Jorgensen bar clamps? That should make for a tight dash sandwich.
 

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
The wife makes quilts. Lots, and lots of quilts. Maybe a quilt sandwich.

Heaven forbid that I got any adhesive on one of them.

Done a dash cap?
 

nel621

Active member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
No dash cap work. I did see one done by a member of VCOA. It was a black dash that he put the cap on it in black. I must say I had to look twice and he had to point it out that the car had a dash cap. I was impressed.
 

M.H. Yount

New member
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Location
Charlotte, NC
Couldn't ever convince myself that adhesive would work and hold up over time. Mine has been attached for 14 years with 4 black interior trim screws -- two down into the top of the dash on either side of the center speaker grille. And one each into the side of the cap/dash in the area that's covered when the door is closed. Easy to remove if need be. And the dash didn't have to come out to attach it.
 
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nel621

Active member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
3M VHB double side tape is good stuff. Very High Bond. On a clean surface, once it sticks it's on there for good. Make sure you place it right the first time out. I used this to reattach the cladding ( plastic trim) that runs along the bottom of the 86+ 240s. It gets washed, wet, cold, hot, always stays stuck!
 

wetplates

New member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Location
Raleigh, NC
Look for that clear plastic wrapping/packaging stuff that comes on a roll with a handle at your local Lowes. Its with the moving boxes. I use it for wrapping and holding things together when glue is drying. Its like saran wrap on steroids. Just get it started around the dash with the cover on it and pull it tight. Its constricts and sticks to itself while you wrap it. It might work well for you. No clamp marks, heavy weights to dent anything, etc.
 

M.H. Yount

New member
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Location
Charlotte, NC
Look for that clear plastic wrapping/packaging stuff that comes on a roll with a handle at your local Lowes. Its with the moving boxes. I use it for wrapping and holding things together when glue is drying. Its like saran wrap on steroids. Just get it started around the dash with the cover on it and pull it tight. Its constricts and sticks to itself while you wrap it. It might work well for you. No clamp marks, heavy weights to dent anything, etc.

That is a good idea if you're going to try adhesive.

I also take that stuff with me when I go to the JY. However dirty/messy the bits are - I just hit 'em like a saran-wrap-spider until everything is covered. All the dirt/grime is inside and I can put them in whatever I'm driving without concern about gunk transfer. Also great for keeping all the little nuts/bolts/fasteners/plastic bits with the part.
 
S

smokeyfan1000

Guest
Just use large., long tie wraps....the real TB way,..............

How 'bout ya make a "how to" on this dash cover install?

Likely others that want to know......
 

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
I got the instrument panel out but not without breaking the tamper device off. First I had to remove the speedometer cable from the transmission in order to get enough slack to move the panel out enough to get to the tamper device.

CAUTION: Don't pull the panel out by force. The first thing that will break is the plastic locking nut on the speedometer cable. Then you will have nothing holding the cable in.

Once the tamper device was off a simple twist of the locking nut and the entire panel came out. I did remove the steering wheel because it is easy and in the way.

Most of the connectors are unique and do not require much documentation. There are three single connector wires. The red/white goes to the tach. I sorta lost track of the other two but noted the wire colors on the other hobby car panel with a Sharpie. If I can't figure it out I know how to and will come back and document the connections.

Following CleanFlametraps guidance on the mystery connectors removal I got the dash out without breaking anything else.

20150515_164141.jpg


The 3M tape solution is attractive but the temperature specs on the tape is 200*F. While the interior may not get beyond 140* or so the dash itself will certainly hit 200*. The Coverlay Sil-Bond RTV 4500 is rated to 400*F.

Now I have to figure out how to get the heater core out.

If I wasn't having so much fun I might get frustrated about now.
 
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M.H. Yount

New member
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Location
Charlotte, NC
Tip - note the driver's side and passenger's side HVAC vents that go into either side of the dash. They are side specific -- designed to channel a bit of air over to the window for defrost purposes. It's easy to get them mixed up and installed on the wrong sides. Don't ask how I know.

Be sure to let us know how many screws, clips, etc. you have left over when it's back together.
 

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
Done . . .

. . . for better or worst.

I used an electric sander to sand the raised cracks and to rough up the surface for the adhesive.

20150518_153237.jpg


I followed through on my flash of adequacy regarding using 3M Super Strong Attachment Tape. Ran strips all around the edges that the cap instructions say requires a silicone adhesive seal which I applied. The instructions are to attach at the edges leaving the open areas free to move. Hope that doesn't mean bubble/warp up. The intent is that the double backed attachment tape would hold the cap tightly to the dash until the high strength adhesive had time to set.

Note on the tape: the backing of the double backed tape is a little difficult to get off. It would be a good idea to peal them off before applying the silicone as it took me 15 minutes to get all that off and the work time of the silicone is supposed to be 10 minutes.

20150518_154658.jpg


Seemed to have worked. The cap is held down pretty tight to the dash. Now, if it just won't release before the silicone sets.

60fbf835-de6b-4663-96b8-30738ee3d926.jpg


Plastic bags of water was plan B.

Now, to address the part about the Coverlay brown, which was the closest selection to the dark palomino of the original color. It has got to be refinished and I have yet to find a close match. The local auto color shop is ordering in a can of SEM Palomino but I suspect that it is going to be too light. Next closest if the SEM Camel.

7db65a59-dedd-4508-99d5-8b420b90be2f.jpg


SEM Camel from their color chart.

The Bertone dash does not seem to be a 'normal' color for Volvo's of the period. The local paint shop says that they can mix a match for only a few dollars more but I would have to provide the spray equipment. I have that. Leatherique could do that also with their vinyl paint that they claim is suitable for dashes. Cost $50 vs. $20 for a can of SEM vinyl paint.

Decision for another day.
 
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TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
Five hours after assembly nothing seems to have sprung out of shape and everything seems tightly bonded to the original dash. Maybe this worked.
 

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
Here is a picture of the lower glove box cropped to display the color as best a digital camera can display. This is what I need to duplicate for the entire dash.

20150518_072258-1.jpg


Any suggestions appreciated.

Doing a pretty through restoration on this Bertone without any more than reasonable budget constraints is driving me to duplicate this color.

Anyone got a suggestion of anything closer than SEM Camel and Palomino?
 
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nel621

Active member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Tom, the SEM camel color tend sto be more "orange". I used it change the color on some door "snap ring" trim from black to tan. It was darker and didn't really match. The car was for sale so it didn't really matter, just wanted it to "look" tan. In my pic you can see the cap color. Next to it is an ash tray from a later car, different tan color. I sprayed half the ash tray so that you can ( hopefully) see the difference. Next to it Bertone seat belt real covers from the lower 1/4 panels. once again a different tan. They are lighter in color and I don't think these are faded.
<a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/nel6211/media/79%20and%2081%20Bertones/SENM%20camel%20color%20002_zps1lcu6qfh.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh77/nel6211/79%20and%2081%20Bertones/SENM%20camel%20color%20002_zps1lcu6qfh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo SENM camel color 002_zps1lcu6qfh.jpg"/></a>
 
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