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Dead cylinder for the first mile

Valve stem seals are new.

My pistons look must worse than that. I will get a picture later this week.

At the moment I have no other lead with regards to the dead cylinder and there is so much oil everywhere that I need to investigate this separator box.
 
I doubt it could be the cause, but what says the test with a glove on the oil filler cap?
If it doesn't swell it means that the pressure in the block is ok and blow-by system is not clogged.
 
What happens is H is fitted wrong?

1696331559738.png


I will do the glove test, but the fact is that everything is always covered in oil

And no, I don't know how that causes a dead cylinder, but I am beginning to think the dead cylinder issue is not fixable.
 
Do you have removed H? On volvoclub.co.uk they say to never touch that hose since if it breaks or slip down you have to remove the sump and I don't know if it is the same on the 240, but on 940 is a pita since you have to lower the whole front subframe
I replaced the PCV box some years ago, the procedure says to be careful fitting that pipe at the right height, but not what happens if you don't.
 
the procedure says to be careful fitting that pipe at the right height, but not what happens if you don't.
That hose lets drain into the sump the condensed oil. If it's bad installed I suppose you could have an oil leak from the side of the engine
 
Good morning.

What a neat trick with the latex glove on the oil filler neck! Lots of pressure, it ballooned up hard.

I'm hoping this can solely be attributed to a problem with the PCV? I blew into the inlet manifold thin hose, and it was clear. As said previously, I have measured compression regularly over the last twenty years, and it has always been the same.

I also took the sparkplug out of cylinder #2 and lay it on top of the engine, and it fired fine. Put it back in the engine and my timing gun showed no spark.

Here are two photos of the cylinder from before running it:

PHO00002.JPG

PHO00006.JPG

It is a little bit wet, and oily on top. The next two photos are after running the engine for ten seconds:

PHO00008.JPG
PHO00010.JPG


It now looks wetter. Also, what's that white stuff at the top of the wall?


I also had to top up coolant again. This may be un-related but it worries me. It's also odd the way i can drive around for six months with no coolant loss, then suddenly it is empty.

I need to get the oil separator out and inspect it, next weekend.

I'm really hoping it isn't rebuild time for the engine? It's not high mileage.

Regards,
Henrik Morsing
 
It is possible you have bad rings, pistons, or cylinder bores. That would cause the excessive crankcase pressure.

I work on a certain couple of modern engines that are known for misfire codes and/or excessive oil consumption. If we see ONE scratch on a cylinder wall we replace the engine. If there is no damage to the cylinder walls, we do new pistons and rings.

You also could have coolant and/or oil burning off on a cold start. Or a possible leaking injector. The piston crowns shouldnt look wet like that.

Maybe try a leak down test.
 
I've tested the injectors, no leaks, however, pulling #1 & #2 injector they always appears soaked in fuel.

Do I need a compressor for a leak-down test? O is that something else?

Regards,
Henrik Morsing
 
Use a compression gauge to do a static compression test, a running compression test, and a snap-throttle compression test. You probably won't see anything conclusive, but maybe it will show something useful.

Use a leak down tester to check the sealing qualities of the cylinder. You apply compressed air and check the leaking percentage and also listen around to see if you can hear air escaping from thr intake (bad intake valve), exhaust, (bad exhaust valve) or the dipstick tube/oil cap (bad piston rings, piston/bore).

Looking at those pics, it looks like oil. I am gonna guess you have a problem with piston rings. The fact that the misfire goes away once warm, also leads towards a piston/ring/bore issue.

We put a borescope in the spark plug hole and if we see an oily piston, we then take the head off and inspect the bores for damage. We get a certain 1.5L turbo engine with misfire codes and we check the misfire history data and there is usually oil on that suspect cylinder's piston when there is a bottom end problem.
 
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I know this thread has become a bit long and things get lost, but compression is fine. It's the same as it was 20 years/270 000 miles ago.

I will try again, and maybe hire a rig to do a leak-down test.

I still think the misfire is just down to wet-ness of the spark-plug or cylinder.

Maybe I just need to pull the head.

P.S. Still not sure if blocked oil separator could cause this, but it's easier to check than pulling the head, so I will check it out.

Regards,
Henrik Morsing
 
What a neat trick with the latex glove on the oil filler neck! Lots of pressure, it ballooned up hard.
Or the crankcase gas recirculation system is clogged or there is too much blow-by throught the rings.

But let me understand better: the plug made the spark outside the cylinder but not inside? I think an automotive scope could help you a lot. If you can find someone with the right equiment I suggest the following tests:
- primary/secondary ignition waveform
- in-cylinder pressure waveform (both affected cylinder and another one for comparison)
- cranckcase pressure pulses waveform (for example by attaching the pressure tranducer at the oil dipstick tube)

All tests with engine cold.
 
Or the crankcase gas recirculation system is clogged or there is too much blow-by throught the rings.

But let me understand better: the plug made the spark outside the cylinder but not inside? I think an automotive scope could help you a lot. If you can find someone with the right equiment I suggest the following tests:
- primary/secondary ignition waveform
- in-cylinder pressure waveform (both affected cylinder and another one for comparison)
- cranckcase pressure pulses waveform (for example by attaching the pressure tranducer at the oil dipstick tube)

All tests with engine cold.

Wow - this is all getting very advanced. Not sure what kind of shop would be able to do that, I think modern garages just go by what the ECM says, replace random stuff and then scrap the car if it doesn't work.

I think think whatever the wetness in the cylinder is, makes the spark plug not fire. First things first, I will do a cold compression test, then a running compression test, and then clean the oil separator out. Then take it from there.

I saw someone in a Youtube video pour a bit of oil into the cylinder and time how long it took to disappear. The only annoying thing it the redblock is slanted, so the oil would just sit on one side of the piston.

Could a head-gasket leak cause the crank-case pressure?

Regards,
Henrik Morsing
 
Could a head-gasket leak cause the crank-case pressure?
Interesting question... I think that if the leak is between cylinder and one of the oil path it could also increase increse the pressure inside the block like when the leak is between the cooiling path it increase the pressure inside the radiator

I think think whatever the wetness in the cylinder is, makes the spark plug not fire.
When you had removed the plug it was wet? And if it was wet, wet of what? Oil, fuel or water?

First things first, I will do a cold compression test, then a running compression test, and then clean the oil separator out. Then take it from there.

I saw someone in a Youtube video pour a bit of oil into the cylinder and time how long it took to disappear. The only annoying thing it the redblock is slanted, so the oil would just sit on one side of the piston.
That's why others suggest you to make a static compression test instead.
For the test of inserting oil on top of the piston I had known this for improve pressure during compression tests, not for running the engine and I don't know if it could work but if you want to try, since the redblock is slanted, you could rise a side of the car putting it on stands or parking with two wheels over something to level it
 
Interesting question... I think that if the leak is between cylinder and one of the oil path it could also increase increse the pressure inside the block like when the leak is between the cooiling path it increase the pressure inside the radiator

I do find it very confusing. I'm tempted to pull the head just to investigate, but it would be a double job if I'd have to pull it again for the rebuild.

The head gasket went in... 2007? and I just put a new one on without having the head skimmed. I did check for warping though.

When you had removed the plug it was wet? And if it was wet, wet of what? Oil, fuel or water?

I can't tell. Doesn't smell like fuel, however, the injectors are wet and smell of fuel. None of them are leaking though, nor is the cold-start injector.

Actually , the plugs are only oily on the outside/thread, the tip is dry.

That's why others suggest you to make a static compression test instead.
For the test of inserting oil on top of the piston I had known this for improve pressure during compression tests, not for running the engine and I don't know if it could work but if you want to try, since the redblock is slanted, you could rise a side of the car putting it on stands or parking with two wheels over something to level it

I'll give it a go.

I think multiple issues are confusing the problem.

- Coolant randomly disappearing
- Injectors are soaked in fuel (from no-where)
- Crank case over-pressure
- Pistons wet on top

Who knows which ones are related. With 388 000 miles, maybe it's just rebuild time, no matter what?

Regards,
Henrik Morsing
 
What were the running compression readings?

It's pretty clear you have a mechanical problem. You can try some block tester fluid to check for combustion gases that have made it into the cooling system. Or you may just have a coolant leak you can't find. The pistons look wet with oil. If it were a lot of coolant, you could see the piston steam cleaned compared to your 3 and 4 cylinders that you say are working fine.
 
What were the running compression readings?

Hi, not tried that yet.

It's pretty clear you have a mechanical problem. You can try some block tester fluid to check for combustion gases that have made it into the cooling system.

Already done that, see other thread. No leak.

Or you may just have a coolant leak you can't find. The pistons look wet with oil. If it were a lot of coolant, you could see the piston steam cleaned compared to your 3 and 4 cylinders that you say are working fine.
 
I think that you have more than one problem. You have been given some good advise by several people. You need to be systematic about your diagnosis. We still don't know what your compression test results were. I'd recommend doing a cold compression test, starting with cylinder #2 first. Then do a leak down test while still cold. Then a, at running temp, compression test. Then a, at running temp, leak down test. Note all data. I'd also recommend doing another block check, you may have to do several. Intermittent head gasket failures are intermittent. You may also have a slight crack in the head. It's possible that the white discoloring that you asked about in your cylinder picture at the top of the cylinder may be cooked coolant residue staining. Regarding the crankcase pressure, it sounds like you do have an issue. Have you checked the arrestor/filter fitting on top of the breather box for restriction/plugging. The return hose below the box, going down into the block may plugged or kinked/restricted, or you might just have a bad box. I'd also recommend taking pictures of all the piston tops. You might just find that they are all looking the same. Remember that you have a CI injection system, all your injectors are spraying all the time, from cranking when starting till shut down. They aren't necessarily going to be dry when you pull them out. If you breather box is plugged, then you're probably getting some oil seepage from a lot of places, like collecting around the injector housings/wells, also around the spark plug recesses (possible valve cover gasket leakage). If the engine isn't smoking at cold start, and/or when driving, accelerating/ decelerating, and it's not using any oil, and your compression tests/ leak down tests are acceptable, then you're back to a misfire #2 when cold (head gasket?/head?/?), and oil leaks everywhere (breather box?/hose?). Just my thoughts, don't give up, or start taking it apart until you've done all your testing. Good luck!
 
Hi tbrcktch,

I think I have been pretty systematic, but people have also been suggesting tools I don't have. I'm looking at buying a leak-down tester on Ebay and hiring a compressor. Some tools are just a bit expensive for single use, like £250 for a coolant system pressure tester. Not saying I won't buy it if I need to, but would rather exhaust cheaper options first.

I was asking previously about the oil separator box drain hose, as I replaced the box about ten years ago. I removed the flame trap 20 years ago.

This weekend, I will run a cold compression test, a warm compression test, and a running compression test and report back.

I will also remove and inspect the oil separator.

And I do appreciate and heed the suggestions from this thread.

Regards,
Henrik Morsing
 
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