DET17's "Project cheap thrills wagon" - '90 745

[DET17]

Well here we go again! Purchased a few months back, but finally brought it home on Oct. 16, 2023.

After the sale of the original Project cheap thrills (sedan) and believing I was finished with 7/9 vehicles, this 1990 came up for sale not 19 miles from my house. I have always had a soft spot for the 7/9 wagons.... when SquareD sold his excellent machine, I promised myself I would keep the door cracked open if one came available.

The seller owned this car for the last 21 years, always ran Mobil 1 in the redblock, and it's rust free. While I'm ambivalent about the gold paint.... this one checked all the other boxes and the price was right. As she sits right now, basically a stock 745 drivetrain with lowered springs, IPD sways and the VOXX wheels. As you will see, the project scope will be considerably different than my original sedan.

 

[DET17]

Project cheap thrills wagon objective: reliable, comfy and low cost DD 745.

Project cheap thrills wagon strategy (method to achieve the objective):

1. Raise the Lowered: in true RWC fashion, restore the wagon to stock height and increase rear carrying capacity
2. No Paint: optimize existing paint, and send it.
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero on current Regina redblock powertrain - near term
b. Upgrade to modern 6 or 8 cylinder NA powertrain with 200+hp target and 25+ mpg highway - long term
4. Interior: restore to 1990 745 standard

Project cheap thrills wagon tactics (short term actions/tools to achieve strategic items):

1. Remove black IPD lowering springs, install Lesjofors stock front and IPD HD rear coils. Replace all front wear items including BJs, tie rod ends, top strut mount bearings. Came with Bils HD; front struts found DOA. Front end alignment once suspension work completed. Remove IPD 25mm sways and sell to offset total cost; install stock 22/19mm sways.
2. Local Dent Dr. to remove dents as possible at reasonable cost. New windshield because 1990 and cracked. Replace headlights with 90 style plastic non-fog units, but not E-codes. Buff existing gold paint, and don't spend another dime on it! Remove roof rack and plug the holes with that IPD kit or equal. Paint front & rear bumpers with correct color to remedy faded look.
3a. Regina new control items including ignition coil, powerstage, charge air temp and MAP sensors (no MAF in Regina system). Belts & top hose, new T-stat & coolant temp sensor for ECU. Convert to 95 style accessory mount to remove ridiculous elastomeric bushings. Confirm if waterpump is aged and needs replaced. Compression check to confirm HG and valve conditions. Inspect for oil leaks (seller claims none exist). Inspect AC system for deficiencies and remedy (reportedly blows fuses when AC engaged). CPS is already new (one of the items to remedy the non-running condition). Rebuild onhand Denso 100a alternator & install if needed.
3b. Find a low cost low mile 6 or 8 cylinder powertrain that easily retrofits to the Volvo existing systems (got several options here.... more to come on this). The long term future of this 745 will not include redblock tractor engine power.
4. Interior work will include restoration of speedo function (non-operable since 202K miles), rebuild/replace 7 series front leather seats due to condition, misc. pieces of trim cracked/damaged, new sunroof seal (manual sunroof in the 1990, joy). Modern head unit to enable shuffling music from my iPhone and other music data storage. Carpeted dash pad cover for existing cracked dash.

 

[DET17]

Project cheap thrills wagon total running cost:

1. Purchase of 90 745 - $600
2. Suspension springs (Lesjofors front / IPD HD rear), BJs, strut bearings, tie rod ends, one strut mount - $336
3. Regina sensors and control items including coil, powerstage, CPS, water temp sensor, fuel pump - $145
4. Front brakes rebuild rotors + metal pads - $82
5. Large NISSENS radiator (for future 6/8 cylinder) - $110
6. Pull-A-Part used parts (4x door weatherstrip, 2 brake caliper front, 3 speaker cover, Regina IAC, Intake hose, ZF rack & pinion) - $188

12/1/23 total cost ($600+$336+$145+$82+$110+$188) = $1461

 

[Cateran]

I like the your plan, very similar to what I am hoping to do to my new to me '92 240- restore to daily driver status then look for something to replace the tractor engine. Curious to see what you have in mind..

 

[DET17]

1. Raise the Lowered

Begins with a full suspension stage zero. We know the drill by now.....start by putting her on jacks and remove the front suspension. The PO installed chassis braces upper & lower; they will stay.

No ABS on this wagon, oddly enough (an option perhaps on the 90?) Impact with 24mm socket removes the Bils HD strut top nut. I pulled out my coil spring compressors, then remembered they aren't even needed for these short springs. Disconnect the 25mm IPD front sway and remove it. Sadly, discovered the rack is shot (fairly stiff steering response driving it the 20 miles home, should have known), so that will be coming out. Here's the driver side purged of the strut; didn't realize these 90's had Girling front binders, twin pistons. Apparently the PO also installed stainless brake hoses. Tie off each caliper to the lower stay rod so they don't fall and stress the hoses.

With both struts out, more bad news. The Bils HD (perhaps as much as 18 years old) are dead, with virtually no rebound left in them. This pic shows the stock 22mm sway which will be reinstalled to replace the IPD 25mm bar.

Finally a bit of good news. The 745 has been fitted with what I believe are the old IPD "black sport springs". They are in excellent condition, rust free. Hopefully that full set of springs and IPD sways will nearly cover the cost of the Bils B6 dampers. I know from previous experience that stock height wagon springs and Bils B6 (the old HD I believe) are a dynamite combination. The 745 will be ready for forest service gravel roads as well as pavement.

Does Bilstein even offer rebuilding services any more? Likely not worth the hassle of shipping and waiting for them. Next, the old worn out steering rack comes out.

 

[oldnfast]

I’ll be watching since your last build was excellent. Is that some kind of cold air intake on the airbox?

 

[ISTHATA940]

So fresh, so clean! What a steal for $600! Personally love that gold color

 

[DET17]

I’ll be watching since your last build was excellent. Is that some kind of cold air intake on the airbox?

PO installed some custom PVC plumbing to replace a damaged inlet hose ( leading to high pressure area near headlight). I think the NA airbox is otherwise bone stock. Should be a fun utility wagon, with an improved drivetrain.

So fresh, so clean! What a steal for $600! Personally love that gold color

It's growing on me. Years ago had a tan/beige colored sedan, and the advantage was it still looked decent when dirty.

2. NO PAINT, one of the core strategies. Whatever we get "buffed out" is what we've got.

 

[blkaplan]

Does Bilstein even offer rebuilding services any more? Likely not worth the hassle of shipping and waiting for them. Next, the old worn out steering rack comes out.

They do but last time I checked, the rebuild cost was similar to replacing them.

They might have value to someone who wants to revalve a set.

I would verify because that stuff tends to swing.

 

[940 16 valve]

Welcome back! I was genuinely sad when I saw you sold your last one, after following your project thread.

 

[DET17]

Welcome back! I was genuinely sad when I saw you sold your last one, after following your project thread.

Thanks, but I wasn't really gone as I also have an 84 242 languishing in my underground garage. This 745 will make an excellent DD without the anxiety of a high dollar vehicle (such as my old sedan).

 

[DET17]

1. Raise the Lowered (continued)

In the suspension disassembly process, discovered the rack & pinion was toast (poured oil out inner tie rod once strut was removed). The search then began to find a suitable replacement.... talked to TB parts sellers about used (about $150), and found new reman pricing from $300 to $450.

Had been waiting for a late 960/S90 to surface in our ATL Pullaparts, when one appeared. Decided to drive the 75 minutes to the ATL South yard to inspect the power train for possible salvage and transplant. The subject S90 had a tough life and much of it was suspect, so passed on it and decided to review a 90 740 that also happened to be on the same yard (for 2 months already, what could be left?).

Man, did I hit paydirt:

To my amazement, the sedan was fitted with the hen's teeth ZF rack! I have never seen one in all the 7/9's I've looked at over the last 12 years around ATL. This one was tight.... no lost motion on inner tie rods. She turned smooth as silk from lock to lock. With an out the door price of $57, how could I go wrong? The above pic is after cleaning with kerosene. A couple more pics for 7/9 posterity..... this is what you look for to positively confirm the ZF rack (made in W. Germany):

The large disc in the end of the inner tie rod boot is the sure tell of the ZF; the JAPAN racks all have a small boot end that clamps directly on the inner tie rod shaft. Just tonight I've got the old dead rack pulled and the cleaned ZF installed. From the remnants of my RB hoard, I found a 75K mile PS pump, hose and reservoir that came from a 95 Wagon somebody parted years ago. Might as well use them.... she will get a fresh load of Type F ATF which is the designated PS fluid for these cars.

The 90 740 sedan which donated this rack also provided 4x near perfect door seals, 2x spare front Girling calipers, 3x speaker covers, a REGINA only IAC (NLA), the intake air hose, and the REGINA coil/power stage. Felt bad for the old sedan.... it had obviously sat many years based on the molded paint, and there wasn't a dent or impact anywhere. Probably had a fuel issue and languished until destiny brought the carcass to Pullapart.

Working to source the Bils B6 (HD) for the front suspension..... so that is the deal breaker for now in getting her front feet back on the ground. I've also got the drivers side hub bearing to deal with... quite stiff to rotate in comparison to the pass side hub. For the cost of a complete strut from that same 90 740 I can buy a replacement hub with bearing installed; I'll likely just buy that hub kit and change it out.

 

[JCol91]

Working to source the Bils B6 (HD) for the front suspension.....

I have a pair of front HDs that have been laying around for a few years. I can pull them out and see how they look and feel this week if you’re interested. Also got a lower IPD brace. Was planning on taking a shot at making it work on the 240 but at my rate nothing will happen. Probably best to sell them and fund proper braces

 

[940 16 valve]

Score on the rack!

 

[DET17]

Score on the rack!

Amen Reverend!

 

[GeorgiaTechFan12]

Had been waiting for a late 960/S90 to surface in our ATL Pullaparts, when one appeared. Decided to drive the 75 minutes to the ATL South yard to inspect the power train for possible salvage and transplant. The subject S90 had a tough life and much of it was suspect, so passed on it and decided to review a 90 740 that also happened to be on the same yard (for 2 months already, what could be left?).

I'm glad you scored those parts of that 740! I saw it when it first landed and it was the first Regina car I'd seen in an Atlanta junkyard.

 

[DET17]

I'm glad you scored those parts of that 740! I saw it when it first landed and it was the first Regina car I'd seen in an Atlanta junkyard.

First Regina car I've seen in Pullapart ATL as well. You don't happen to recall the miles? Instrument cluster was long gone when I arrived.

 

[DET17]

3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero on current Regina redblock powertrain - near term


For the sake of having reliable AC (until the future powerplant upgrade) I purchased a 94-95 (not sure about 93?) accessory mount. Thanks to 2ManyTurbos for providing. Based on previous experience with my sedan, the early version combination alternator/AC compressor mount with it's many rubber isolation bushings is next to worthless.... I could never keep my AC belt tensioned properly on that sedan because the isolation bushings would "creep" and then the belt squeal would resume. Volvo engineers solved the problem with the late 9 series accessory mount, which attaches the bottom of the AC compressor via thicker steel plates and bolt/aluminum mount sans bushings. Once and done when you tension your belt (AC is important down here in the south)! The early version mount used on this 90 and my old 92, bottom steel plates also "waller out" (southern term) creating another failure point. All resolved now with the latest design RB mount. A few pics here for the project record:

It is worth noting that what you see here is a "hybrid" of the late design..... there is a more HD top bracket set & adjustment stay that requires breaking the AC hard lines open; my charge is still good so I chose not to create more work and dump the AC charge just to install them. With a strategically placed thick flatwasher, the early top adjusters & AC compressor drive sheave line up perfect with the harmonic balancer; the bottom AC mount is the improved 94-95 version, all metal.

Finally, I found the AC belt used (13A0980) was just barely able to be installed. If you go this route, I recommend you buy a longer belt, say a 13A0990 or 13A1005. As you can see, there is adjustment left to tension these longer/proper belts.

With that failure point shored up, we move back into the front suspension next.

 

[DET17]

1. Raise the Lowered (continued)

Happy New Year 2024 update.

As indicated earlier, my 18 year old Bilstein B6 dampers were shot. After some research I decided to replace them with Bilstein B4 Touring struts and shocks. Found the best deals I could (eBay), and fitted the new struts into the housings. The Bils come with new retention nuts of the struts into the housings; I added blue Loctite to the threads to ensure they stay put. The OE bumpstops were also gone, so I purchased a new set of FEBI parts from FCP Euro for both the bumpstops and the strut boots. I also bought new Lesjofor front springs (stock height and rate) and am fitting them to the struts now. Spring compressors are a bit tricky for these cars; the Volvo OE tools would be ideal but I have a set of the standard compressors that are slightly modified to work. Here is my pass. side strut with spring compressor in position:

You will note I have pipe coupling spacers between the 21mm hex drive point and the bottom of the lower clamp. You are lucky to grab 4 live coils with this setup (I think you can catch 5 with the factory tool). I always apply oil to the acme threads of these spring compressors to ease the work. My compressors require a 21mm drive socket; grabbed a 6 point impact socket and turned my pneumatic impact all the way down to the lowest setting to walk the springs down evenly, each side bit by bit:

So the first side is ready for install.

The rear suspension needed full removal to extract the short springs and mostly dead shocks. Once these items were out, close inspection to the rear suspension links (torque reaction) found one of the rubber bushings fully blown up. I suspect the PO installed the lowering springs without releasing these rubber bushings to the new height; failure to do this results in too many degrees of rotation when the suspension travels which caused that top bushing to fail.

Here is the failed bushing:

My hoarding habit nearly paid off in spades as I had a complete 95 940 frame with perfect torque links. Unfortunately I damaged one of them on the original Cheap Thrills sedan, so the exact one I need is missing. Looks like I'll be heading back to the local Pull-a-Part to extract the upper torque link. I've also discovered a smattering of other items missing/damaged, so I hope the 7 series sedan that donated my ZF rack is still there.

 

[tintintin]

... I have a set of the standard compressors that are slightly modified to work.

Thanks for that! I'll use your great idea next time I need to R/R the fronts!

...close inspection to the rear suspension links (torque reaction) found one of the rubber bushings fully blown up.

Had you been noticing any symptoms? I've been trying to track down an elusive longstanding clutch engagement judder problem. Replaced the motor mounts, trans mount, clutch, PP, clutch cable, large rear axle bushings. These small ones are hard to inspect and verify.