Harry Tuttle
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- Joined
- Jun 2, 2006
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- in your ducts
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DET17's "Project cheap thrills wagon" - '90 745
- Thread starter DET17
- Start date
The BROTHERS had it going on........ and the LONG version is simply the best.
"....I've been crushed by tumbling time....."
Last edited:
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
Transmission Time!
Since my 90 745 AW70L has around 250K on the clock, and the PO informed that at least once "it slipped and wouldn't shift" until he added more fluid...... I decided to deploy an asset sitting in my stash for, well, almost 15 years.
I own what is allegedly a lower mile ~94 AW71. Decided to dust it off and mate it to the 94 B230F which has been well documented here.
To do proper due diligence with the AW71, it would need a new filter, gasket, and of course the accumulator mod (TB Legend that it is). So out came the dust covered 71, then cleaned off and the pan & valve body removed:
It's been years, so I had to re-read the ancient thread (can you believe 2007?) on the HOW TO of the mod. Pulled the pistons out using a valve lapping vacuum cup-on-a-stick, and BINGO they came right out. Whilst the MOAR TURBO boys cut their spacers about 3mm shorter than the springs, I opted for ~5mm on my NA engine. I seriously doubt my "tight squish" NA tractor engine is going to stress the internals of the 71 much; honestly I just wanted the quicker shifts, and of course the door is cracked open for a plusTEE someday down the road.......
Here is the odd looking middle accumulator piston, which has series springs, one each end of the piston. This was apparently a running change that AISIN made for VOLVO. This 71 is supposedly a very late 1993 build (likely a 94 vehicle). Here is the unusual piston and springs:
With the springs measured (actual dims added to the epic thread in PERF), I cut the appropriate long bolts using a METABO disc, right angle grinder, and squared the ends on my bench grinder. Here are the actual spacers:
That RH spacer, largest OD, actually came from my 74 FIAT 128. I kid you not, been dragging that bolt around for, oh, 45 years!
Pan & filter will go on, a new cable was installed. Only task which will remain is to change the front input shaft/converter seal. Ordered a JAPAN made KOYO, just to keep things all Asian in the torque multiplier!
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
Transmission Time!
Since my 90 745 AW70L has around 250K on the clock, and the PO informed that at least once "it slipped and wouldn't shift" until he added more fluid...... I decided to deploy an asset sitting in my stash for, well, almost 15 years.
I own what is allegedly a lower mile ~94 AW71. Decided to dust it off and mate it to the 94 B230F which has been well documented here.
To do proper due diligence with the AW71, it would need a new filter, gasket, and of course the accumulator mod (TB Legend that it is). So out came the dust covered 71, then cleaned off and the pan & valve body removed:
It's been years, so I had to re-read the ancient thread (can you believe 2007?) on the HOW TO of the mod. Pulled the pistons out using a valve lapping vacuum cup-on-a-stick, and BINGO they came right out. Whilst the MOAR TURBO boys cut their spacers about 3mm shorter than the springs, I opted for ~5mm on my NA engine. I seriously doubt my "tight squish" NA tractor engine is going to stress the internals of the 71 much; honestly I just wanted the quicker shifts, and of course the door is cracked open for a plusTEE someday down the road.......
Here is the odd looking middle accumulator piston, which has series springs, one each end of the piston. This was apparently a running change that AISIN made for VOLVO. This 71 is supposedly a very late 1993 build (likely a 94 vehicle). Here is the unusual piston and springs:
With the springs measured (actual dims added to the epic thread in PERF), I cut the appropriate long bolts using a METABO disc, right angle grinder, and squared the ends on my bench grinder. Here are the actual spacers:
That RH spacer, largest OD, actually came from my 74 FIAT 128. I kid you not, been dragging that bolt around for, oh, 45 years!
Pan & filter will go on, a new cable was installed. Only task which will remain is to change the front input shaft/converter seal. Ordered a JAPAN made KOYO, just to keep things all Asian in the torque multiplier!
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
As the clock is running out on my window to build this replacement powertrain for the Cheap Thrills Wagon, I'm squeezing in what I can between packing & cleaning the home (going up for sale in less than 2 weeks). One of those tasks was the install and shimming of my A cam.
We know the M cam was all about meeting emissions in North America.... and as a result makes the NA tractor engines rather gutless. Based upon butt dyno data as well as actual camshaft measurements, the A & B cams from the OE give a nice little "kick in the pants" to the NA system. Relatively cheap, and sledge hammer reliable (unlike aftermarket IPD crap that wears away as you drive.... ask me how I know), those options give a needed boost and allow the RB to pull right up to at least 5500 RPM (based upon my previous experience with a B cam).
Here we go..... it begins with documentation to keep track of the shims and lash/clearances achieved:
If you keep track of your original shim locations from your stock head, put them back in the SAME positions. I lost track, cleaned mine in an Ultrasonic cleaner, and as a result started with a baseline of the "55" shims (which actually measured 0.155" with my mic). I set them on the buckets and begin taking measurements:
Sorry, no pics/video of the measurements.... hands in gloves and I lubed everything with assembly lube moly & oil. When changing shims, I found these little pick tools invaluable:
Over the years of building/repairing these RB tractors, I've collected a fair amount of shims. Sadly, because of previous projects, my assortment has a nice "gap" from around 0.158 -> 0.162. Once I got the first round of lash measures taken (no hushers) I knew I was going to be tight based upon available shims.
Years ago, Tom Fritz ( StealthFTi) told me based upon his butt dyno testing, to target .012" intake, .014" exhaust on these cams. Apparently the OE spec is a flat .015" all around..... but it is well known that you can run tighter clearances for slightly more duration and minuscule lift increases. Here is my shim assortment:
Well it took exactly 3 rounds of shims to reach the "best available" clearances with my resource constraint. I'll probably be asking for someone to trade some shims with my heavy stacks of 0.156 and 0.157 thickness to gain some stock in 0.158 - 0.162 range.
When the smoke cleared, I confirmed these clearances:
#1 - .011 I / .017 E
#2 - .011 I / .016 E
#3 - .015 I / .015 E
#4 - .012 I / .016 E
So, most of my intakes ended up near Tom's target.... while all exhausts were a tiny bit looser. As the RB cam wizard Shoestring told me, it likely matters not in the case of the A cam. As Meatloaf said.... 3 out of 4 ain't bad! Well, more or less......
Here is the A camshaft, installed with moly assembly lube on bearing positions, buckets & shims. I did install the hushers when I was finished. I was reminded again for this my LAST tractor engine (hope so) to start torquing the very center cap to the 14 lb-ft (approx. 170 lb-inch) , then the #2 and #4 caps, and finally the end thrust caps at #1 and #5. Don't forget the anaerobic sealant under the edges of these outboard caps to keep oil from wicking out and leaking on your engine.
A good check to your reassembly is to turn your cam gear by hand using the timing belt sheave.... it should snap from position to position as you turn it clockwise. If you don't get this motion, you have made an error and need to remove all bearing caps and start again!
Coming up next: installation of the cam pulley with Loctite (in addition to the 36 lb.ft of torque so it stays put), Aux gear pulley (more Loctite), lower timing cover half and finally the belt. I still need to suspend this engine from my picker, then remove the Rex/Regina flex plate and install the new PENTA rear seal. When these steps are completed, then I can join the 94 RB and the 94 AW71 together to prepare them for the installation into my 745.
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
As the clock is running out on my window to build this replacement powertrain for the Cheap Thrills Wagon, I'm squeezing in what I can between packing & cleaning the home (going up for sale in less than 2 weeks). One of those tasks was the install and shimming of my A cam.
We know the M cam was all about meeting emissions in North America.... and as a result makes the NA tractor engines rather gutless. Based upon butt dyno data as well as actual camshaft measurements, the A & B cams from the OE give a nice little "kick in the pants" to the NA system. Relatively cheap, and sledge hammer reliable (unlike aftermarket IPD crap that wears away as you drive.... ask me how I know), those options give a needed boost and allow the RB to pull right up to at least 5500 RPM (based upon my previous experience with a B cam).
Here we go..... it begins with documentation to keep track of the shims and lash/clearances achieved:
If you keep track of your original shim locations from your stock head, put them back in the SAME positions. I lost track, cleaned mine in an Ultrasonic cleaner, and as a result started with a baseline of the "55" shims (which actually measured 0.155" with my mic). I set them on the buckets and begin taking measurements:
Sorry, no pics/video of the measurements.... hands in gloves and I lubed everything with assembly lube moly & oil. When changing shims, I found these little pick tools invaluable:
Over the years of building/repairing these RB tractors, I've collected a fair amount of shims. Sadly, because of previous projects, my assortment has a nice "gap" from around 0.158 -> 0.162. Once I got the first round of lash measures taken (no hushers) I knew I was going to be tight based upon available shims.
Years ago, Tom Fritz ( StealthFTi) told me based upon his butt dyno testing, to target .012" intake, .014" exhaust on these cams. Apparently the OE spec is a flat .015" all around..... but it is well known that you can run tighter clearances for slightly more duration and minuscule lift increases. Here is my shim assortment:
Well it took exactly 3 rounds of shims to reach the "best available" clearances with my resource constraint. I'll probably be asking for someone to trade some shims with my heavy stacks of 0.156 and 0.157 thickness to gain some stock in 0.158 - 0.162 range.
When the smoke cleared, I confirmed these clearances:
#1 - .011 I / .017 E
#2 - .011 I / .016 E
#3 - .015 I / .015 E
#4 - .012 I / .016 E
So, most of my intakes ended up near Tom's target.... while all exhausts were a tiny bit looser. As the RB cam wizard Shoestring told me, it likely matters not in the case of the A cam. As Meatloaf said.... 3 out of 4 ain't bad! Well, more or less......
Here is the A camshaft, installed with moly assembly lube on bearing positions, buckets & shims. I did install the hushers when I was finished. I was reminded again for this my LAST tractor engine (hope so) to start torquing the very center cap to the 14 lb-ft (approx. 170 lb-inch) , then the #2 and #4 caps, and finally the end thrust caps at #1 and #5. Don't forget the anaerobic sealant under the edges of these outboard caps to keep oil from wicking out and leaking on your engine.
A good check to your reassembly is to turn your cam gear by hand using the timing belt sheave.... it should snap from position to position as you turn it clockwise. If you don't get this motion, you have made an error and need to remove all bearing caps and start again!
Coming up next: installation of the cam pulley with Loctite (in addition to the 36 lb.ft of torque so it stays put), Aux gear pulley (more Loctite), lower timing cover half and finally the belt. I still need to suspend this engine from my picker, then remove the Rex/Regina flex plate and install the new PENTA rear seal. When these steps are completed, then I can join the 94 RB and the 94 AW71 together to prepare them for the installation into my 745.
Last edited:
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
Offers are beginning to arrive on the GA home.... my window for this powertrain "upgrade" are heading toward closure. It remains to be seen if I will have enough time to swap ONE last drivetrain in the Swedish Underground Garage before the home closes and we move all to east TN.
Since we are currently in "home staged for sale" & multiple showings mode.... I have some time to get the 94 engine wrapped up. Jumped right back into things with a full timing belt install.
Based on prior experience, both the AUX and CAM belt sheaves (pulleys) needed installed and torqued to 37 lb.ft WITH blue Loctite 242. Failure to torque & lock these will definitely ruin your day. My trademarked "old belt trick" gets usage one more time:
It is imperative that the full circle surrounding the sheave is "cinched up tight" or the belt won't hold when you hit the center bolt with spec'd torque. I use the belt tensioner stud as the holding point to resist rotation...... your old belt and a pair of vice grips are all that is necessary. Keep those old belts!
Begin the belt install by turning the crank to #1 TDC (center key aligns with aluminum casting "rib"), camshaft on it's DOT mark which lives on the backing plate piece of the cover, and the AUX. sheave pulley at it's roughly 4pm location (more on this later). Orient your round tooth belt so you can read the text printed whilst standing in front. My engine has the side mounted distributor (the oddity of the 94 Rex/Regina system), which caused me some head scratching.....things should look like this:
A good doublecheck is to roll your new belt over the crank #1 TDC tooth/key slot and the dual line marks straddle them and are centered on the cast aluminum TDC rib:
Lay the belt tightly starting from the bottom of the crank sheave, up and around the AUX sheave, then finally over the top CAMshaft sheave at 12 o'clock. Once these are all aligned, begin the slipping of the belt over the small smooth belt tensioner idler. I purchased a new tension spring, as the old one was 31 years old..... and belt tension is a GOOD thing on these tractor engines. I'll tell you, the new spring is a bugger to depress far enough to install the 3mm / 1/8" drill bit! I used a pair of large channel locks to compress the idler enough to pull the drill bit out and tension the new belt.
So with the system installed and belt properly tensioned, I noticed the distributor notch wasn't really in proper alignment with the small notch in the side of the body (the target for the #1 plug wire). It took my old brain a couple of minutes to recall that the spark doesn't fire at TDC, it fires between 12* advanced (idle) and various cruise advance per the REX or EZK control at 20-25* when operating at speed. Here's the crank and now installed harmonic balancer at TDC showing it's mark at 0*.
Here if you look closely, you see the rotor center is well past the notch for TDC... something like 10* degrees on the camshaft.
That observation is what took a minute in my brain to recall.... that ignition must LEAD the TDC event in order to achieve peak cylinder pressure at roughly 7* ATDC to create the torque at the crank. Both REX and the LH set idle timing at 12* BTDC and cruise at ~20* BTDC. When you roll the crank back to that position, the rotor is back near dead center on the distributor body mark. I realized looking at it, why the rotor tip is as wide as it is..... these distributors have no mechanical or vacuum advance, all that is performed by the width of the rotor! Those OE Engineers, pretty smart guys!
The the spark timing confusion now cleared out of my brain, it was time to seal up the VOLVO camshaft valve cover for hopefully the last time. I know many old sages say to install lithium grease on both sides of the cover gasket. However I broke into auto's on a 67 VW bug, and those folks taught me to glue one side of the new gasket to the head/cover... and grease the other for cover removal. Also recall that these SOHC heads need a dab of sealant in the sharp corners where the #1 and #5 cam retention caps live, or oil will leak out. So I start with a thin coat of Indian Head shellac on the surgically clean 530 head flange; this is followed by the tiny wedges of ULTRA BLACK in the 4 corners:
Next, the lithium grease applied to the valve cover body. A light bead will suffice...... and it sure is easier than handling the gasket with it coated in grease! I only use VOLVO / PENTA gaskets.... poor luck in the past with ELRING and other aftermarket units weeping oil.
One finger inside the latex glove, and the grease is nicely spread for cover installation. While the green books states the cover torque spec is 9 lb.ft, I have found that too much and results in a total crushing of the cover gasket. I'm in alignment with the UK Volvo Club folks, who say to "wrist tighten" with a small ratchet. I used my 1/4" drive ratchet and the 10mm socket.
That's a wrap then on the cover installation. Next, replacement of the rear main seal before the AW71 is joined up to my 94 RB.
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
Offers are beginning to arrive on the GA home.... my window for this powertrain "upgrade" are heading toward closure. It remains to be seen if I will have enough time to swap ONE last drivetrain in the Swedish Underground Garage before the home closes and we move all to east TN.
Since we are currently in "home staged for sale" & multiple showings mode.... I have some time to get the 94 engine wrapped up. Jumped right back into things with a full timing belt install.
Based on prior experience, both the AUX and CAM belt sheaves (pulleys) needed installed and torqued to 37 lb.ft WITH blue Loctite 242. Failure to torque & lock these will definitely ruin your day. My trademarked "old belt trick" gets usage one more time:
It is imperative that the full circle surrounding the sheave is "cinched up tight" or the belt won't hold when you hit the center bolt with spec'd torque. I use the belt tensioner stud as the holding point to resist rotation...... your old belt and a pair of vice grips are all that is necessary. Keep those old belts!
Begin the belt install by turning the crank to #1 TDC (center key aligns with aluminum casting "rib"), camshaft on it's DOT mark which lives on the backing plate piece of the cover, and the AUX. sheave pulley at it's roughly 4pm location (more on this later). Orient your round tooth belt so you can read the text printed whilst standing in front. My engine has the side mounted distributor (the oddity of the 94 Rex/Regina system), which caused me some head scratching.....things should look like this:
A good doublecheck is to roll your new belt over the crank #1 TDC tooth/key slot and the dual line marks straddle them and are centered on the cast aluminum TDC rib:
Lay the belt tightly starting from the bottom of the crank sheave, up and around the AUX sheave, then finally over the top CAMshaft sheave at 12 o'clock. Once these are all aligned, begin the slipping of the belt over the small smooth belt tensioner idler. I purchased a new tension spring, as the old one was 31 years old..... and belt tension is a GOOD thing on these tractor engines. I'll tell you, the new spring is a bugger to depress far enough to install the 3mm / 1/8" drill bit! I used a pair of large channel locks to compress the idler enough to pull the drill bit out and tension the new belt.
So with the system installed and belt properly tensioned, I noticed the distributor notch wasn't really in proper alignment with the small notch in the side of the body (the target for the #1 plug wire). It took my old brain a couple of minutes to recall that the spark doesn't fire at TDC, it fires between 12* advanced (idle) and various cruise advance per the REX or EZK control at 20-25* when operating at speed. Here's the crank and now installed harmonic balancer at TDC showing it's mark at 0*.
Here if you look closely, you see the rotor center is well past the notch for TDC... something like 10* degrees on the camshaft.
That observation is what took a minute in my brain to recall.... that ignition must LEAD the TDC event in order to achieve peak cylinder pressure at roughly 7* ATDC to create the torque at the crank. Both REX and the LH set idle timing at 12* BTDC and cruise at ~20* BTDC. When you roll the crank back to that position, the rotor is back near dead center on the distributor body mark. I realized looking at it, why the rotor tip is as wide as it is..... these distributors have no mechanical or vacuum advance, all that is performed by the width of the rotor! Those OE Engineers, pretty smart guys!
The the spark timing confusion now cleared out of my brain, it was time to seal up the VOLVO camshaft valve cover for hopefully the last time. I know many old sages say to install lithium grease on both sides of the cover gasket. However I broke into auto's on a 67 VW bug, and those folks taught me to glue one side of the new gasket to the head/cover... and grease the other for cover removal. Also recall that these SOHC heads need a dab of sealant in the sharp corners where the #1 and #5 cam retention caps live, or oil will leak out. So I start with a thin coat of Indian Head shellac on the surgically clean 530 head flange; this is followed by the tiny wedges of ULTRA BLACK in the 4 corners:
Next, the lithium grease applied to the valve cover body. A light bead will suffice...... and it sure is easier than handling the gasket with it coated in grease! I only use VOLVO / PENTA gaskets.... poor luck in the past with ELRING and other aftermarket units weeping oil.
One finger inside the latex glove, and the grease is nicely spread for cover installation. While the green books states the cover torque spec is 9 lb.ft, I have found that too much and results in a total crushing of the cover gasket. I'm in alignment with the UK Volvo Club folks, who say to "wrist tighten" with a small ratchet. I used my 1/4" drive ratchet and the 10mm socket.
That's a wrap then on the cover installation. Next, replacement of the rear main seal before the AW71 is joined up to my 94 RB.
Last edited:
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
Had a walk thru tonight with a prospective buyer... if our luck holds we will have the GA home under contract and begin making the hard commitments to the BIG move to east TN.
Wrangled some more hours (out of the home packing schedule) to complete the new rear main seal install.
My 77K mile OE seal was seated 2.5mm inside the edge of the aluminum seal retention casting. Based upon others recommendations, I bought one of the V-Prints RMS tools.... price/value is good so why chance a leaking rear main? I've been down this road with the original Cheap Thrills sedan.... don't want to repeat that result. As I mentioned before, I found an NOS Penta seal on eBay as I will never trust another ELRING red seal.
We begin:
AS FOUND, the OE seal was sitting 2.5mm deep. My sweet RMS tool arrived after we returned from visiting all of our grandchildren:
With a light coating of white Lithium grease, the seal goes straight in without any drama. For the record, the white plastic "tool" that the seal comes with from PENTA is worthless..... it might work to place a seal in the bare aluminum seal housing, but you cannot pass the tool over the crank end.
Using the V-Prints tool... you can see the bolt holes which could be used to walk the seal it. I didn't install any bolts, as the seal went into position with light tapping of my small plastic hammer.
With the new seal installed, time to correctly position and install the REX flex-plate. Crank locked at #1 TDC, I marked the clock positions when I removed it. Clean bolts were BLUE Loctited (241 I think) and then torqued to 52 lb-ft. Of course I used the star pattern torquing the 8 cap screws.
Rex/Regina, just like LH2.4, needs those flex plate windows/blanks in the PROPER position..... failure to mark these and return to the correct orientation will result in non-starting and considerable consternation!
My AW71 received a brand new KOYO front seal (OE spec from TOYOTA). Pulling it out was a bit tricky, and I had to find just the right length screw driver (-) to leverage it out.... the JAPAN fit on that seal is tight. I set the KOYO seal back flush with the housing, as I found it. With seal in place, I drained some of the foul fluid from the torque convertor, and poured back roughly an equal amount. Care must be taken to line up the fluid pump drive tang slots with the converter dogs..... Even tho I took care eyeballing things, when the converter engaged it must also mesh with the shaft splined teeth which rotated it a bit. I think I had to spin it around ~ 3 revs with light pressure until the fluid pump drive tangs drop into place. WHEN you have it right, the mounting face of the converter will be around 5/8" (roughly 16mm) below the bell housing mounting plane. If you do not get this TC engaged proper, you will have a disaster attempting to pull the RB and AW together.
Now with the AW71 TC installed, I wheeled the trans (riding on the sweet $120 HF trans scissor jack, a must for OLD guys too wise to use a floor jack and 2x12) into position.
Swedish Tractor engine, meet Japanese torque multiplier!
I would have had the ICE and torque multiplier assembled, but discovered one of my M12 locating dowel pins was missing from the B230F mounting flange. One dowel won't do, thou shalt have 2 to locate those critical centerlines together. Found an eBay seller, and the bag of dowels are on there way to the Swedish Underground Garage!
Getting REALLY close to engine yanking time.... but the home sale is the wildcard. If time allows, we'll do it. However the move takes precedence over everything else, so we shall see. My son is coming out from NM in early August, and we just might perform once last engine R&R in my basement shop. If not, the assembly will get a trailer ride to east TN.
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
Had a walk thru tonight with a prospective buyer... if our luck holds we will have the GA home under contract and begin making the hard commitments to the BIG move to east TN.
Wrangled some more hours (out of the home packing schedule) to complete the new rear main seal install.
My 77K mile OE seal was seated 2.5mm inside the edge of the aluminum seal retention casting. Based upon others recommendations, I bought one of the V-Prints RMS tools.... price/value is good so why chance a leaking rear main? I've been down this road with the original Cheap Thrills sedan.... don't want to repeat that result. As I mentioned before, I found an NOS Penta seal on eBay as I will never trust another ELRING red seal.
We begin:
AS FOUND, the OE seal was sitting 2.5mm deep. My sweet RMS tool arrived after we returned from visiting all of our grandchildren:
With a light coating of white Lithium grease, the seal goes straight in without any drama. For the record, the white plastic "tool" that the seal comes with from PENTA is worthless..... it might work to place a seal in the bare aluminum seal housing, but you cannot pass the tool over the crank end.
Using the V-Prints tool... you can see the bolt holes which could be used to walk the seal it. I didn't install any bolts, as the seal went into position with light tapping of my small plastic hammer.
With the new seal installed, time to correctly position and install the REX flex-plate. Crank locked at #1 TDC, I marked the clock positions when I removed it. Clean bolts were BLUE Loctited (241 I think) and then torqued to 52 lb-ft. Of course I used the star pattern torquing the 8 cap screws.
Rex/Regina, just like LH2.4, needs those flex plate windows/blanks in the PROPER position..... failure to mark these and return to the correct orientation will result in non-starting and considerable consternation!
My AW71 received a brand new KOYO front seal (OE spec from TOYOTA). Pulling it out was a bit tricky, and I had to find just the right length screw driver (-) to leverage it out.... the JAPAN fit on that seal is tight. I set the KOYO seal back flush with the housing, as I found it. With seal in place, I drained some of the foul fluid from the torque convertor, and poured back roughly an equal amount. Care must be taken to line up the fluid pump drive tang slots with the converter dogs..... Even tho I took care eyeballing things, when the converter engaged it must also mesh with the shaft splined teeth which rotated it a bit. I think I had to spin it around ~ 3 revs with light pressure until the fluid pump drive tangs drop into place. WHEN you have it right, the mounting face of the converter will be around 5/8" (roughly 16mm) below the bell housing mounting plane. If you do not get this TC engaged proper, you will have a disaster attempting to pull the RB and AW together.
Now with the AW71 TC installed, I wheeled the trans (riding on the sweet $120 HF trans scissor jack, a must for OLD guys too wise to use a floor jack and 2x12) into position.
Swedish Tractor engine, meet Japanese torque multiplier!
I would have had the ICE and torque multiplier assembled, but discovered one of my M12 locating dowel pins was missing from the B230F mounting flange. One dowel won't do, thou shalt have 2 to locate those critical centerlines together. Found an eBay seller, and the bag of dowels are on there way to the Swedish Underground Garage!
Getting REALLY close to engine yanking time.... but the home sale is the wildcard. If time allows, we'll do it. However the move takes precedence over everything else, so we shall see. My son is coming out from NM in early August, and we just might perform once last engine R&R in my basement shop. If not, the assembly will get a trailer ride to east TN.
Alan29
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2019
- Location
- Jax Adjacent, FL
That vprints seal tool is a great idea. Would love that for the front seals too.
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
Happy August! The home is now sold and we will be moving to TN the last week of the month. HOWEVER, we are boldly proceeding with the powertrain swap on the 745. My son is flying back east to assist the old man (payback is a bitch) with one last engine swap in the Swedish Underground Garage.
In preparation, the 94 RB and AW71 have been assembled:
The HF trans jack has proven to be a good asset for such work. With the tractor engine floating on the chain sling from my hoist, the AW71 is easily elevated to the correct height so the joining can be performed.
The large bolts which fix the AW71 to the RB cast iron were installed with blue loctite and torqued to ~ 60 lb.ft. It's been almost 10 years since the last time I joined these power train elements together. I had forgotten how tricky it is/was to get the right rotation of the RB.... but it sure is! I must have adjusted the chain about 10 times to change front - back angle and then rotation angle. What complicates it further, is I always like to use the lower BH large bolts to anchor my lift chain.... but you can't attach there while you are attempting to install bolts in the same holes. I finally reattached the hoist chain to the flimsy metal bracket bolted to the #4 exhaust mani bolt stud. I sure am thankful for the HF trans jack which greatly assisted in getting this put together.
After the 6 primary bolts have joined the RB to the trans, I installed the 77K mile starter (which are the female threads to anchor the long bolts). When that is done, you must attached the torque converter to the REX flex plate. Those 4 ea 16mm hex bolts are torqued to 36 lb.ft. and installed in a cross pattern to pull things square. Once those trans flex plate bolts are made up (all of these were installed with Loctite Blue 242), then the last piece of the puzzle is the U-shaped casting which closes off the bottom of the AW71 and attaches with 4 bolts to the RB casting and 2 long bolts to the AW71. I used one from the B23 I parted out and it fits the B230 holes perfectly:
Well, she's ready to install. We should begin the disassembly this Sunday. Stay tuned!
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
Happy August! The home is now sold and we will be moving to TN the last week of the month. HOWEVER, we are boldly proceeding with the powertrain swap on the 745. My son is flying back east to assist the old man (payback is a bitch) with one last engine swap in the Swedish Underground Garage.
In preparation, the 94 RB and AW71 have been assembled:
The HF trans jack has proven to be a good asset for such work. With the tractor engine floating on the chain sling from my hoist, the AW71 is easily elevated to the correct height so the joining can be performed.
The large bolts which fix the AW71 to the RB cast iron were installed with blue loctite and torqued to ~ 60 lb.ft. It's been almost 10 years since the last time I joined these power train elements together. I had forgotten how tricky it is/was to get the right rotation of the RB.... but it sure is! I must have adjusted the chain about 10 times to change front - back angle and then rotation angle. What complicates it further, is I always like to use the lower BH large bolts to anchor my lift chain.... but you can't attach there while you are attempting to install bolts in the same holes. I finally reattached the hoist chain to the flimsy metal bracket bolted to the #4 exhaust mani bolt stud. I sure am thankful for the HF trans jack which greatly assisted in getting this put together.
After the 6 primary bolts have joined the RB to the trans, I installed the 77K mile starter (which are the female threads to anchor the long bolts). When that is done, you must attached the torque converter to the REX flex plate. Those 4 ea 16mm hex bolts are torqued to 36 lb.ft. and installed in a cross pattern to pull things square. Once those trans flex plate bolts are made up (all of these were installed with Loctite Blue 242), then the last piece of the puzzle is the U-shaped casting which closes off the bottom of the AW71 and attaches with 4 bolts to the RB casting and 2 long bolts to the AW71. I used one from the B23 I parted out and it fits the B230 holes perfectly:
Well, she's ready to install. We should begin the disassembly this Sunday. Stay tuned!
atomicdeathmonkey
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
- Location
- Texas
Congratulations on getting the house sold !
You'll have that swap done in quick order !
You'll have that swap done in quick order !
Doing it solo would be misery..... but with a helper it's much easier. I plan to retain the in situ intake & injectors for now..... the 90 injectors appear to be yellow in color and the 94 blue? I want to send the latter off for cleaning / flowing and will run them later. I don't think there are any other magic elements that differ across the 4 year span. The REX/Regina IAC is a unique piece but I have several onhand. I need to move my SAAB C900 out of the shop and position the 745 for the surgery. Hopefully this week we prep for a concrete porch at the TN Barn, then picking up the son who is flying in Knoxville. Need to buy more coolant, startup oil for flushing, WM cheap DEXRON fluid for a flush of the AW71; If the auto_tragic shifts well, then I plan to install Mobil 1 synthetic ATF at a later date.
atomicdeathmonkey
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
- Location
- Texas
I find the Walmart euro coolant works well if you're resurrecting something and anticipating leaks, it's cheap enough to not worry too much of it dumps and cools nicely in Texas at least.
Also if you're looking just to clean you injectors at home real quick there are little 12v sets on Amazon that do a bloody great job. Cheap as chips, have used them to clean out old injectors on cars that have sat for years.
Also if you're looking just to clean you injectors at home real quick there are little 12v sets on Amazon that do a bloody great job. Cheap as chips, have used them to clean out old injectors on cars that have sat for years.
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
We are nearing the finish line for this old Swede.... a quick pic update:
Out with the old.......... and in with the 94 enhanced tractor drivetrain:
Today we install the intake (and terminate all sensor I/O); air supply hoses, install fluids. Fingers crossed, our goal is to FLAME ON yet today!
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
We are nearing the finish line for this old Swede.... a quick pic update:
Out with the old.......... and in with the 94 enhanced tractor drivetrain:
Today we install the intake (and terminate all sensor I/O); air supply hoses, install fluids. Fingers crossed, our goal is to FLAME ON yet today!
Quickie update - no JOY just yet. I've got a defective Denso ALT which needs changed out, and as of yet we have no START.
Suspect my 77K mile starter motor is DOA..... we've just moved 2 classic cars from GA to TN so I won't resume troubleshooting until Sunday. I need to get to the solenoid green/yellow wire and confirm if we have power during key position 3. When we installed the AW71 I did mark the shifter rod position and "stay" rod (anchors to the shifter housing) but those adjustments have me wondering if the P-N switch has been moved out of position? My friend 3Wagons will be bringing me a "known good" starter and DENSO to install so that should resolve the no START condition.
Stay tuned for the exciting outcome!
Suspect my 77K mile starter motor is DOA..... we've just moved 2 classic cars from GA to TN so I won't resume troubleshooting until Sunday. I need to get to the solenoid green/yellow wire and confirm if we have power during key position 3. When we installed the AW71 I did mark the shifter rod position and "stay" rod (anchors to the shifter housing) but those adjustments have me wondering if the P-N switch has been moved out of position? My friend 3Wagons will be bringing me a "known good" starter and DENSO to install so that should resolve the no START condition.
Stay tuned for the exciting outcome!
atomicdeathmonkey
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
- Location
- Texas
Popcorn ready! Hopefully an easy fix !
3. Powertrain reliability:
a. Perform thorough stage zero oncurrent 77K mile 94 Regina redblock powertrain - near term
Mission accomplished!
Car starts and drives as it should (as expected). No fluid leaks anywhere (yet)....AW71 is shifting just like accumulator modded versions do.
About the only nuisance issue at present is a very low idle speed. The car didn't do this before the engine upgrade, and the same idle air motor is installed (I have a couple spares from other Rex/Regina donors as backup).
Brought her up to operating temp and then dumped the startup oil..... a fresh load of Mobil 1 0W-40 has been installed with an OE filter. Coolant is brand spanking new as well. The AW71 has a blend of 5 quarts of WM's finest "SUPERTECH" ATF plus whatever lay sleeping in it for the last 10+ years.... but I've got 9 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF being shipped to the house for a near future IPD host kit fluid replacement. Once that is done the fluids will all be AOK (brake fluid swapped and bled out when the wagon was originally received).
Tomorrow the 745 goes on top of a U Haul transport trailer and takes a ride to east TN. We've got our hands full for the next week with the move to the new location.
For the time being, she's done in the Powertrain Department. The 94 RB tractor engine has found a new home......
a. Perform thorough stage zero on
Mission accomplished!
Car starts and drives as it should (as expected). No fluid leaks anywhere (yet)....AW71 is shifting just like accumulator modded versions do.
About the only nuisance issue at present is a very low idle speed. The car didn't do this before the engine upgrade, and the same idle air motor is installed (I have a couple spares from other Rex/Regina donors as backup).
Brought her up to operating temp and then dumped the startup oil..... a fresh load of Mobil 1 0W-40 has been installed with an OE filter. Coolant is brand spanking new as well. The AW71 has a blend of 5 quarts of WM's finest "SUPERTECH" ATF plus whatever lay sleeping in it for the last 10+ years.... but I've got 9 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF being shipped to the house for a near future IPD host kit fluid replacement. Once that is done the fluids will all be AOK (brake fluid swapped and bled out when the wagon was originally received).
Tomorrow the 745 goes on top of a U Haul transport trailer and takes a ride to east TN. We've got our hands full for the next week with the move to the new location.
For the time being, she's done in the Powertrain Department. The 94 RB tractor engine has found a new home......
magicianman89
Active member
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Location
- Murfreesboro, TN
Love to see it!!
TouzinFish
I like my Volvos old and barely running.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2017
- Location
- Idaho
Congrats on the move, hopefully it works out well!
atomicdeathmonkey
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
- Location
- Texas
Awesome 
great to get it done before the move !
great to get it done before the move !