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dirty, old and rusty: a tale of a $600 meatball

trying to squeeze a w917 underneath the header and behind the alternator was a chore so I found a 10mm shorter filter that should do the job. 10x easier to get in/out

my ostrich ribbon spontaneously combusted
been playing around with the timing map for the first time in a little bit. A couple weeks of tweaking and this is where i'm at. The left table is the idle/stabilization map and the right is the main map. I keep getting some stubborn det around max load 2800-2400 rpm column that is difficult to map out. I think I need more of a plateau in that area.

I am also not sure if I should have more or less timing down in the low rpm section, or have a steeper ramp like ms people seem to be doing on these. It is difficult to hear det down there as my exhaust is stupid loud, which hopefully should be fixed sooner rather than later.


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Whoops, should have included that. It's a B cam straight up and as far as i know an uncut head and stock gasket, for now at least. until it warms up :cool: 180psi cranking compression
And it detonates as it passes through that RPM range, or if you're there and then jump on it there's tip-in detonation? Also, are you tracing it and know for sure it's using the highest load cell?
And it detonates as it passes through that RPM range, or if you're there and then jump on it there's tip-in detonation? Also, are you tracing it and know for sure it's using the highest load cell?

It usually happens at wot or very high load (tracing the bottom two rows of the map) as it passes though that area. Aggressive tip in always induces light ping where the ezk pulls 7 magic timing units (-2.625 degree) pretty much every time time no matter what, even on the factory bins ime.

We noticed last night all the factory 8v na (and even the turbo?) ezk programs have a pretty substantial dip right in that area so I guess it's just detonation prone or some weird redblock resonance. Last night I pulled the whole wot area back 4-5 degress and it was still happening. (audible ping or resonance and the ezk pulls a bit of timing, right in that 2700rpm area.)

Chicks dig B-cam 244's.
yas you know it!:nod:
Hmm. Mine doesn't do it, with 0.040" off the head and a V cam. The only time it did was when we combined the car's EGR EZK (I don't remember the number, ask Cam) with a -951 LH, but that was years ago, and only for about 20 min.
I gave up on it for a short time and just left the wot section conservative. Until last night I went back to a similar map posted above and it was not happening... :wtf: going to double check tonight.
The only things I have changed since last week are a new intake pipe with a better breather port and a ricer (but still paper) air filter, and cleaned the maf with some maf cleaner spray. And new 93o gas of course.

also happy 350k
Rebuilt this POS for hopefully the last time. Chinese regulators suck. Idiot lights work now! Sanded down the commutator to stop it from eating brushes. I thought I was going to need to replace it but it cleaned up nice.

minty fresh plug. I bought some ngk bpr7es plugs to replace these.

assume suspension clunk service position

I bought an under drive crank pulley and thought it'd be 1/2 inch smaller diameter at most. It actually fits inside the old crank pulley. Having second thoughts but i'll still install it and hopefully the alternator stays happy at idle.

what a pos

Had local exhaust shop that has helped me about a dozen times now weld in a new O2 bung in the collector of the header pipe, and weld a flange to my race car catalyst. All I need now is to figure out how to connect the cat outlet to the rest of my exhaust. I am also thinking about painting this with the same paint as the manifold below.

I sent this manifold to the machine shop for a blast and a kissy kiss. I painted por 15 header paint with 2 coats so far, might go for a third tonight but it looks great right now. Hopefully it holds up.

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new manifold/header pipe shifted the catback part of the exhaust enough to rub on the body. mr vise helped me fix that.

Pretty. The heat right at the ports already did a number on the paint. I think I layered it on too thick.

parking buddy spotted
Are those ports in the manifold for egt sensors? Never seen those ports on a b230 manifold before?

yeah they are 1/8 npt bungs for egt. only put em in for curiosity as i've never had an egt gauge in any of my cars
Cool, I've made a controller for 4 of those at some point, just with an Arduino and some Chinese sensors and sensor interfaces. Still have to finish that project at some point.

If you want the code let me know:)
Cool, I've made a controller for 4 of those at some point, just with an Arduino and some Chinese sensors and sensor interfaces. Still have to finish that project at some point.

If you want the code let me know:)

wow thanks, I really appreciate it but i have already implemented it in 8051 assembly for an at89lp52 mcu for practice. I used four mcp9600 thermocouple ICs (which in hindsight i should have only used one and made a multiplexing circuit as the refresh rate of the probes are only like 250ms) and 4 k type EGT probes from thesensorconnection.com. it's all up to the wiring and installation and then testing now.

Over the weekend I replaced the shwacked rubber steering shaft damper with a solid unit. I found the upper steering u joint is getting pretty sloppy, going to need to replace that sooner rather than later.:grrr:

I installed the KL underdrive pulley. I only bought a 2 belt row pulley so I needed to space back the power steering pump a wee bit. 11 home depot 5/16" washers did the trick. Man, I am destroying this car. it no longer charges the battery at idle. because race car

i am hackerman

this is my new home

Scored some mint seats from a 90 240!

The driver side wheel bearing all of the sudden got very noisey. it was amplified by the solid strut mounts and i made it about 2 days before it drove me crazy to fix it.

It looks like the rear seal plate somehow worked its way out and m******* salt marsh water washed all the grease out. Luckily I caught it before it welded itself to the spindle :oops:

I haven't checked the valve lash for 60-80k so I got that over with. I don't know what I was thinking before but one of my valves was at 0.28mm and others were at 0.53mm. I could have sworn I did it perfectly last time. whatever, its fixed now, with all of them at 0.33mm to 0.34mm. A little tight for the spec but it's fine.

I also did the hushers as I didn't touch them last time. They all were hard as a rock and shattered as I extracted them. I also have a sneaking suspicion that they are indeed directly correlated with the knock sensor and ezk pulling all the timing it can on hard pulls, as that stopped happening once I replaced these and fixed the lash.

While doing the lash, I noticed how worn my timing belt and gear were. Probably 1 or 2 degrees of play of the belt on the gear.

I ordered a new belt and on a lazy friday night with nothing to do I played around with the cam timing and did some highway pulls. I ranged it from -6 to +6 degrees and after ~200 miles i figured +2 felt all around the best. But with the play, who knows what it was actually at.

this doesnt look right :omg:

I did a round tooth belt conversion as I had the parts from spare motor. I also used the cam gear plates from my 398 head.

Wow this thing got chewed up!

the lines on the belt don't even line up!

I ended up taking the cam gear plates off because the belt was proving difficult to get on. Once I re tension it in 1000 miles or so I'll try reinstalling them. The round teeth are definitely quieter as they say. Less of a slight whine that was prevalent when the worn belt was tensioned.

I ordered a smaller alternator pulley to get better charging at idle but it is too far off in multiple dimensions to use without modification. It needs the bottom step and the back side of the pulley turned down maybe 2mm to line up right. It also drags against the alternator housing. I'll see if I can use my friends lathe to fix it myself.

My mann pro vent keeps clogging up so I relocated it to next to the radiator for more heat. It also had the side effect of a more straight shot for the drain into an oil quart bottle. It was snaking around the strut tower before.

i will never get rid of this car. i love it :)
my diff has been making scary noises for a little bit. I changed the fluid a couple of times as seen in the history of this thread. This pic is a comparison from 2 week old oil vs brand new oil. The dark stuff in the oil is not metallic, the magnet collects nothing substantial.

The noise is the worst at like 50-80% on throttle. I hear nothing on decel/coast. I am not 100% sure about noise at WOT because my exhaust is obnoxious. (i'm working on that, lol)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gWv94QVoFcQ" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

opinions? probably 400k+ miles on the diff.
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Ok so I scanned thru this thread for the first time in a little bit and I recall during my spartan locker install 1.5 years ago (which is still working beautifully, BTW) I had to cut out the weird bolt retainer/oil slinger to get the ring gear bolts out. It was pressed in between the bearing and the carrier. I am thinking the carrier bearing may have shifted slightly with this removed affecting the backlash? Maybe this thing is a requirement for correct oiling? I put 60k+ miles on this thing since the install.