• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

dirty, old and rusty: a tale of a $600 meatball

I've cut that thing on 2 diffs, and never had any issues, I would doubt it would clamp on the bearing stop. Thin sheet metal would deform between the hardened surfaces over time, and when pressing it together.

Those bearings however look pretty worn compared to mine, so that might be your issue, here's mine for comparison, a second stop appears to hold the bearing. Both sides have the same gap:
I do vaguely recall seeing a step on the carrier itself the bearing seated against but I just wanted to be sure! thx for the pix.

I looked through my photo album and couldn't find any better images of the carrier bearings. In person though they looked fine. (1.5 years ago) No pitting or major discoloration but with this many miles their time is probably up.

Does the sound in the video remind you of any specific failure in mind? People on other forums seem to claim different failure modes can produce different sounds. If it's just carrier bearings I can bang those out in a weekend. But the pinion bearing work is new to me.
The noise it makes does not sound like backlash to me, that is more of a whine on acceleration and decelleration. I recall my locker sometimes being slightly rattely, but also mostly on decel and roundabouts. I have heard that the engagement of the locker can start to wear out over time (2-3years), does it give the sense of locking up less firmly?

Following this guide it might just be the bearings on the carrier, since it is not that high pitched and rumbly from what I could tell, as the pinion moves a lot faster
Heyo! I'm coming back to TB a bit and almost all of your photos aren't working for me. When I try to open just the image in a new window/tab, it gives me a security warning:
Websites prove their identity via certificates, which are valid for a set time period. The certificate for esmth.com expired on 7/18/2021.


Anyway, back to the car. :oogle: Why'd you go back to a stock exhaust manifold and did you notice any difference in performance between the two? Did you port the factory manifold and/or modify the downpipe/2-1 section to have a larger merge than the factory 2" or whatever it is?

Regarding your valve lash, the tight one was definitely a bit tighter than you'd like, and the rest definitely looser than wanted. Where you have them now would make a noticeable decrease in dynamic compression with the valves being open longer. This will reduce the tendency for detonation, reduce idle vacuum, increase emissions and increase HP by an also tiny amount. :)

I can't comment on your ignition timing as I can't see the pictures.

Keep it up!
About the cert, thank you for letting me know. I had scripted it to automatically update but missed the last crucial step, letting the web server know about the new cert file name. Whoops!

I went back to the stock manifold mostly because rust but also because it made oil changes hell. The only change really noticeable was less of a tinny exhaust sound in the cabin. Butt dyno stayed the same. I did not port the manifold itself, I did not really see anywhere I could improve it. For the downpipe, I cut a hole right before the 2-1 merge and stuck a long burr in with a die grinder and cleaned up the merge and removed all the extra pipe left in there as there was a ton. The pipe itself was 2.25 so I left that as it was.

honestly ignore that ignition map. not long after I made det cans and it was way too much in the 1500-3500rpm high load range. Just consistent but light enough ping to not hear over the exhaust:oops:
This is what I've been running for a couple months now. No ping on 93 octane, verified with det cans. Well, ignoring the ever prevalent tip-in ping. Vac advance may be a bit much, but a lot of those cells can't be reached with my gearing or whatever. A consistent cruise nets me upper 30s to mid-low 40s degrees depending on the terrain. almost reaching 28 mpg average over the last 1000 miles.
I remember reading that the disc on the diff is just to retain the ring gear bolts in case they back out. Early ones didn't have it.

Interesting. I did notice on the diff I just pulled apart there is a little blob of glue on the bolt heads to the shield thing. Makes sense to me:-P
I bought some new HDs and 250lbx12in springs to replace my 300x10in. When trying to install them the old gland nut top broke off. I cut a slot into it with a dremel then ended up cold chiseling it out. It was a tedious couple hours. I pre heated and PB'd the other side before taking my pipe wrench to it and it came right out without breaking.

The bilsteins did not fit in the strut tubes without coersion. I ended up making a hone with a sponge and sandpaper to clean out the ID of the strut tubes. Slid in nice after this along with some lube.

My crappy joint from the back of the cat to my terrible exhaust started rattling. I sealed it up with generic exhaust bendy-pipe.

The power wire to the in-tank fuel pump decided to break off. Luckily it happened in my friends driveway where I could fix it without a tow. I also figured out why my gas gauge wasn't working, the level float was not attached and floating around in the tank. I have no idea how I'm going to get it out.

I've been having an occasional problem with crank case pressure causing my oil to be blown out the dipstick tube during sustained on-ramp pulls.

I got this smog pump from here a couple months ago with the idea of playing around with it as a vaccuum pump for the crank case. I rebuilt it and added an inlet port barb and plugged the stock inlet. I also tore apart a spare oil filler cap to add a regulator and a small barb to get measurements of the crank case pressure situation. I tested hooking up the pump and it does pull a good vacuum, 12 inches of mercury at cruising speed.

I decided to drive around with the pump pumping nothing for a couple days to make sure it doesn't explode but this morning it started making this noise.
<video width="560" height="315" src="https://esmth.com/f/210923/IMG_5520.mp4" controls></video>
Last edited:
The succ pump was about to explode anyway so I hooked it up straight to the crank case. The outlet was hooked up to the exhaust collector evac bung I had installed months ago. It managed to pull 1 in/hg at idle and 6 at 55mph cruising speed. 2200 engine RPM * 0.66 pulley reduction had the pump spinning at 1475RPM.

And 4 miles later, what I assume to be blow by goo mixed with whats left of the carbon brushes ejected itself from between the pump housing and back plate. I need to re-seal it better:oops:
lh3.1 swap with ezk from euro 940 b230fd. The harness is installed and the car runs but i still need to pull out the old harness.
Been running the stock LH3.1 computer stock the last week or so and it feels better mapped to the manual transmission than the 946 (automatic b230fd lh24) computer I was running before. Getting maybe 5% less MPG than my wrecked 946+231 bin. I was listening to the det cans to see how the stock 169 ezk sounds knock related and at high RPM i heard some rattle/resonance type noise that sounded like a ton of ping but it didn't otherwise make sense. I eventually found my alternator was vaguely mounted and vibrating, which was weird because I put in aluminum bushings for it a couple months back.

Pulling the alternator bracket, the bushings just fall out. Originally they pressed in pretty nice. Replaced them with stock aftermarket rubbers.

While the alternator was out I replaced the pulley with a smaller 54mm pulley to help it charge better at idle with my underdrive crank wheel. I also found a 27 inch v belt and drove the alternator direct off the crank to reduce a rare slipping issue, which was probably only caused by the wallered out bushings. I also replaced the stamped alternator fan with the original alternators cast fan.
Last edited:
I'm going to try to retrofit the B230FD EGR system to my LH3.1 car using the European 231 ezk box. I am curious if the redblock EGR system can help my fuel economy any. Doing some reading, it looks like EGR should theoretically increase fuel mileage. Some sauce here and here.
The stock EGR lines go around the back of the engine and under the intake but I noticed I could cheat as the egr valve can be threaded straight onto the fitting on the back of the exhaust manifold. I hope the temp sensor won't have a problem with this.

I plan to drill and tap the old B21 egr port boss in the throttle body for an M16 banjo and have the egr pipe go around the side of the intake manifold over the valve cover. I also noticed the egr valves' pintle creates way smaller of an orifice for the exhaust gas to go through than I'd expect. It can't seem to completely pull the pintle out of the hole. The third picture here shows it propped it all the way open. This seems strangly small to me when they've picked 12mm tube for the EGR.

I pulled apart the egr vacuum solenoid to see how it works. It looks like it rapidly switches the solenoid coil which moves a rubber paddle that connects either atmospheric air or engine vacuum to its sealed main body which is linked to the egr valve diaphragm. The top part of it seems to be a vacuum reservoir or check valve or limiter of some sort. I couldn't open it further without killing it.
By the way, before I opened and cleaned it, this valve was clogged solid with some black goo. There was no way this was correctly controlling the egr in the car it came out of. (got it at a junkyard.) There are 2 little filters protecting the atmospheric ports and one was completely rotted and mushy.

I wonder if this ezk output to this could be used to control a mac valve instead.
Last edited:
This thing was nasty.

Rusty with the drill press, but I got the M16 banjo fitting in the LH3.1 throttle body.

This is the clearance with the EGR valve in the manifold, but it turns out this will not work. The valve gets way too hot and the ezk throws the flow too high code. I will use the stock around-the-back pipe then cobble in my own pipe to the throttle body.

I haven't gotten a good look in the light at how the IPD stainless header pipe held up for awhile and it looks pretty good. It purple'd from the heat and it lasted a good Massachusetts winter without a spec of rust!

I have a chance this week to disable the car while I fix the exhaust situation. I am cutting the header pipe off at the merge, cleaning it up internally, and having a 2.5 pipe welded in to replace the 2.25 OD pipe. a V band to either a flex pipe or catalyst will be stuck at the end, not sure of the order yet.
The old exhaust. I hacked it a lot over time and it is now time to fully retire. It was leaking in multiple places and pretty obnoxious. (I kept the tailpipe as it was only ~3 months old.)

The original trip back from the welder. Marked up the over axle pipe for the 2nd trip to the welder.

Back from the 2nd trip, compared to the original exhaust axle adjacent portion.

This is how I mounted it at the resonator spot.

Pretty bad pictures of the over axle portion. I kept the pipe about an inch from the body 'roof' of the over axle hump so the axle can articulate all around with no interference. It also has about 1.5 inches of clearance to the spring and about an inch from the gas tank, but the perspective is off. I will get better pictures of this next time the car goes on jack stands. The body of the rear/tailpipe muffler just barely bangs on one of the gas tank mount bolts. I need to find a hanger for the rear that is about half an inch longer ear-to-ear than stock. Or now that I think of it, A BFH inspired dent in the muffler might suffice.

I was trying to track down a leak at the manifold to header pipe flange and it turns out the flange to pipe interface cracked at the welds. It hadn't held up like I thought in the previous posts. Went back to the welder for the last time to have this fixed.

I replaced the cone filter with a stock airbox with the back cut off. I can not run a stock unmolested airbox as the 940 radiator and eventual e-fan setup interferes with it. I haven't gotten a scope on the maf signal line or anything, but tracing the maf translation map at WOT with the ostrich, it would jump around 20+ cells. With the paper filter back in, it only jumped around ~8 cells. I think it helped.
The new exhaust system has been pretty nice. It is way quieter but has a single nasty drone frequency right at about 1850 RPM. I've just been avoiding driving around that engine speed. I want to experiment with a J-pipe or Helmholtz branch, but am not sure where in the system it should go. I have access to a mig welder at my new place, so I may begin experimenting with some of the spare pipe I have.

I made my own wasted spark board for the EZK that will power the inverted logic (compared to the stock power stage) of LS D513a coils. I had to reduce the dwell time by a lot, as these take about 2.5-3ms nominal, according to GM PCM data I've found. I have a temporary harness created from a junkyard truck coil harness and will need to put together a cleaner and loomed one. I haven't yet removed the old wasted spark 2x2 coil and power stage from the firewall in this image.

I ended up deleting the spartan locker and returning to an open diff as the ratcheting was getting old. I do miss my traction but I think it was worth it. I still have a habit of anticipating my sharp turns and slipping the clutch in gas stations and parking lots that I'm trying to stop. Also a new equally bad habit of screeching the inner tire from a stop into a turn like a jackass. :roll:

One of my rear calipers seized up so it got a rear brake job.

I got new Continental DWS06+ tires again as I wore out the Toyo Proxes. I like these tires, but the sidewalls are considerably more limp than the toyos. The ride is quite a bit more cushy, though.

I also hit the big 400K miles! This cluster is disgusting :oops:

I added a breather vent to the valve cover. I then proceeded to blow all my oil out that tube, filled up the catch can, and inhaled it into the engine. :oops: It soaked the MAF and air filter.

I added a MAP and IAT combo sensor and the spartan 2 wideband signal to the spare ADCs in the lh box, just to log. for now :oogle:

I installed the Yoshifab DSM CAS adapter and wrote a decoder with an atmega1284p for it for no good reason.

I removed my cobbled up aluminum/silicone intake monstrosity and replaced it with a stock intake bellows.

I took a closer look at the adjustable cam gear I had installed a bit ago and it become a whole brain-melting ordeal. It turns out the advance/retard are printed backwards, and the center/"straight-up" point of the gear is NOT straight-up. It is about 4-5 degrees off. I think this was the cause of my previous pinging problem :omg:

I then installed a K cam to replace the B. I got to look at the hushers I installed in May of 2021 to see how they held up. 2 of 8 of them blew apart, but they were all still pretty supple. They weren't hard and I could still feel them damping the followers, even the broken ones. It got new hushers and I shimmed the K a little tighter than stock, all 0.011-0.012 across. I need to correctly tune the ignition map for the K cam but it still has a nicer top end than the B while feeling slightly limper down low, as the forum lore suggests. It's got a lumpier idle but I hope I can reduce it with some more idle timing.
oh, here is an exhaust video, the same one as the other thread in showroom.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7vLb4ul8tnc" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
t5 pic dump

The brand new rattle box in all it's glory. I am trying to replace the 0.63 fifth gear with a more sane 0.80:1 gear set for a small 4 cylinder.

The tailshaft housing is off

5th gear fork and slider/synchro assembly is out

The original overdrive driven gear is kept on with a snap ring, needed to buy the tool for this.

Off comes the cover and the input shaft retainer

Mainshaft has been liberated

Went out and bought a HF press, the 5th gear was really stuck on there.

The new 0.8 gearset, quite a bit more beef to the teeth.

And here is where the ****-up happened. While pressing on the new 5th driven gear, the block I was using to support the other end of the output shaft that the 5th gear is being pressed on slipped out and destroyed the inner input shaft bearing. This bearing is specific to the Ford T5Z so was not as easy to find as the normal rollers for the oem T5 WCs. I did find a source for it though, and need to pull the output shaft back out to get this one off and the new one on.

Part 2 of the ****-up: The new 5th driven gear I pressed on absolutely refuses to budge, either pressing it on, or off with my large puller.

I am sort of stuck here, the gear absolutely will not move. I did some searching online and found I could cut the race of the rear/output shaft bearing to be able to remove the output/main shaft from the housing. This will get me better access to the 5th gear where I can stick it in my buddy's 50ton press. I have a die grinder, but I don't have a small enough cut off wheel that will fit inside the housing to cut the race. I do have a dremel tool with mini cut off wheels, but I moved and cannot find it. :rofl:
This is pretty sweet, what protocol are you using to read out the adress?

It is really embarrassingly hacky and over complicated, which is why I haven't talked about it. In short, I wrote a chunk of 8051 assembly that runs at the end of the RPM input line interrupt which dumps out a bunch of data from specified iram addresses out the 8051 serial interface, but in mode 0. I had to both nop out all the code I could find that uses the serial port in the entire LH program and snip the traces to the blinking lights/OBD feature so that no longer works. Also the box sometimes crashes. Sometimes it locks up and idk why.

Those cut lines now enter a rasperry pi pico "PIO" state machine program, also written in assembler :roll: that deserializes the data into bytes, verifies the checksum, then sends the good data down it's uart to normal ftdi usb interface. I also had to modify the ftdi driver on linux to be able to run the custom modes/baud rates that it needs due to the dumb 6mhz crystal choice of the lh box. So it will not work as-is at all on windows or probably any new version of linux.

I have about 80 different "calculated fields" in megalogviewer which interprets the raw data into almost human interpretable data.