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Down the Dark & Gloomy XC90 Rabbit Hole

For the ABS code on P2 cars, take the center caps off the front wheels and make sure the axle bolt is tight. They have loctite from the factory but love to back out anyway. There's not enough slop to let the axle come out of the hub when that happens, but it puts the ABS tone ring out of alignment and throws a code.

Also take the plastic cover off the top of the 2.5T engine (you'll have to pull the charge pipe too) and inspect the wiring harness underneath. Tends to rot from age and heat damage in that specific area. Dave Barton sells pigtails.
 
For the ABS code on P2 cars, take the center caps off the front wheels and make sure the axle bolt is tight. They have loctite from the factory but love to back out anyway. There's not enough slop to let the axle come out of the hub when that happens, but it puts the ABS tone ring out of alignment and throws a code.
Yup. I've also had a bad wheel bearing cause that
 
I’ve been getting some excellent feedback from this thread, thanks everyone!

Also, I have no idea how I missed it when I bought the car, but this is only front-wheel-drive, not all-wheel-drive. I guess I assumed all XC90s were AWD? Oh well, not a big deal. Maybe I’ll get slightly better MPG as a result.
 
Interesting thread. OP, seems like you got a deal.

Is there an IPD tune for the 2.5T ? I've been on the lookout for a V8. Ideally the 2009 R Sport. Just because.


I've seen a few FWD 90's, but they are pretty rare. Down here they are all soccer mom vehicles and awd isn't needed.
Here's one on our local CL. The ad doesn't say it now but was listed as FWD.

2014 Volvo XC-90 R Design 3.2l ... $6,900​

https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/d/clearwater-2014-volvo-xc-90-design-32l/7839208636.html

00F0F_k4JplP7v7BW_0CI0t2_600x450.jpg


"RARE R-DESIGN MODEL! CLEAN CARFAX! MOONROOF! VLIND SPOT MONITOR! REAR DVD PLAYER! 3 ROW SEATING! BACKUP SENSORS! POWER FOLDING MIRRORS! NICE UPGRADED ALLOY WHEELS WITH GOOD TIRES! CLEAN TITLE! ICE 🧊 COLD AC! 🥶 3 ROWS with LEATHER! POWER WINDOWS AND LOCKS! LOTS OF STORAGE SPACE!

I have for sale a very nice and rare 2014 Volvo XC-90 R Design 3.2L. It has Blind Spot Monitor, parking sensors, moonroof, Power folding mirrors, flip down TV dvd player, Heated Leather Seats, ice 🧊 cold ac, power windows and locks! 3 Row Leather Seating with Cloth power Seats Cd player with steering wheel audio controls. It runs and drives perfect with a newer battery! Plenty of cargo storage space when seats are down! 3.2L FWD v6 with plenty of power! Bluetooth phone, auxiliary audio! With 182k highway miles ready to roll! Priced to sell at only $6,900 cash!
 
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I’ve been getting some excellent feedback from this thread, thanks everyone!

Also, I have no idea how I missed it when I bought the car, but this is only front-wheel-drive, not all-wheel-drive. I guess I assumed all XC90s were AWD? Oh well, not a big deal. Maybe I’ll get slightly better MPG as a result.

All good news for you if you don't need the rear wheels turning. Less weight, less fuel, less to maintain. No bevel gear or center support bearing or any of the things that fail in the AWD system on Volvos. (Admittedly I don't know much about the newer models like this but certainly the first few years of AWD that I have experienced were not known for long lasting reliability)

A relative a few years ago had a somewhat similar unexpected discovery experience but in a much worse way. He works as a videographer in remote locations and has for years been haling his filming equipment around in a series of AWD Chevy Astro vans that he buys, drives into the ground for a few years, then replaces with the next van. Seems they are perfect size and capability for the stuff he hauls and the places he needs to get to, and cheap to own, without using quite as much fuel as a Suburban.

When he wore out the most recent previous Astro and started looking for a replacement (which are getting harder to find in good shape many years after end of production now) he eventually found a really nice one in Seattle. Apparently the test for determining if there are any issues with the AWD viscous center differential is to make a tight turn with the wheel hard over to one side and make sure there is no driveline bind. He went and checked out this van, all looked good, clean, drove great, and passed the AWD driveline bind test beautifully. Butter smooth. He bought it and drove it home.

A few months later he is out on a filming site and gets into some mud or wet grass or something. Van gets stuck bad. Spinning the rear wheels with no drive to the fronts at all. He gets underneath...... And there is no front driveshaft, no front axle shafts, no front diff.... No transfer case! It's a RWD model. The guy selling it had represented it as an AWD and had even glued the correct factory AWD badges in the right places on the front doors. My relative had never bothered to look underneath. His fault. The reason it was so smooth on the tight turn test was of course because there was no center diff to bind up.

It was a bad deal for him because there was deceit involved plus the AWD feature was the reason he had bought that van, he needed it. Plus resale on the RWD models is less than half what a good AWD brings so when he was forced to (honestly) unload it on the market and start over again, he lost money. Lesson on being smart and careful when you buy. Anyway, at least in your case the situation is different.
 
For the ABS code on P2 cars, take the center caps off the front wheels and make sure the axle bolt is tight. They have loctite from the factory but love to back out anyway. There's not enough slop to let the axle come out of the hub when that happens, but it puts the ABS tone ring out of alignment and throws a code.

Also take the plastic cover off the top of the 2.5T engine (you'll have to pull the charge pipe too) and inspect the wiring harness underneath. Tends to rot from age and heat damage in that specific area. Dave Barton sells pigtails.
Also throw the plastic cover away. It traps heat in and bakes the coil harness.
 
The weather's been great here in Boise, so we've been enjoying the XC90 with the sunroof open and windows down. However, I began noticing a slight hissing sound coming from the engine bay. After getting home, I found a collapsed vacuum line. I'm assuming the rest of the lines are degrading too, so I'll be redoing vacuum lines as a to-do list item.

After boiling some spare rubber hose from the garage, they stretched to fit and made a nice seal. The car's idle is better (not perfect), and the hiss is gone.
 
Where I am they all are. I don't know that the local dealer even brought in FWD ones.

We didn't get FWD in Canada. BUT, let me tell you how many people went to Florida and got a really cheap XC90! Only to find out it was FWD..... There was some big disappointment (this was back when they were new).


Now- Replace that Banjo bolt NOW.

Jordan
 
Man, I forgot about the AWD astro vans. Those were a good deal
I had a Safari AWD that I lifted, put a Blazer tcase in and 31 inch tires. It was fun taking it on trails and stuff and getting the weirdest looks from guys who spent 10x as much on kitted out Toyotas and Jeeps to get to the same place I went in my $500 van with cranked torsion bars and lift blocks. It also helped that it was $500 and I could drive it like it was a $500 van.
 
I’ve been seeing the banjo bolt comments, that’ll be included in my next parts order. :grin:

While replacing the vacuum line in my last update helped the idle a little, the car was still have stumbles and RPM drops at stoplights - it even stalled on our way home from dinner last night, yuck!!

I used my borescope to take a peek at my throttle body without fully taking it off (because sometimes I’m lazy like that), and found a considerable amount of grime and buildup.

I left the throttle body in-place and slowly cleaned it with carb cleaner and a cloth until the borescope showed it looking shiny and nice again. After getting it cleaned, the car idles GREAT! No more dips or stumbles.

Yeah I’m using a broom stick to hold my hood like the cool kids do.

Dumpster Rule Enforcers watched me the whole time.
 
Updated banjo bolt PN is 31325709.

Clean the small orfice/pipe that goes to the box. I use mechanics wire and brake clean or the like. Make sure it is clear. If you break it, it is not technically available as a separate replacement on the 5 cylinder. But you can use the T6 version PN 30731007.

Don't forget the two copper washers for the banjo bolt.
 
I envy how clean your engine is. My exhaust system and chassis is similarly nice but the engine bay is a disaster due to a slow power steering seep.
 
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