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Dropping in the block mounted Yoshi CAS

stove

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
There are no marks, what position is the slot supposed to be in, with engine @ TDC?

And once this is correct, how do you confirm the CAS itself is not 180? out, it seems sealed?
My guess is it don't matter.

I have no interest in actually learning anything about how this works yet, I am simply installing
parts for an enthusiast from here, who does not have time currently for wrenching.

Please do not point me to the 8 page CAS "article". I skimmed it, lost interest and hope for an answer.

Thanks!
 
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apachechef

Burnt Sierra Madre
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Location
An obscure body in the SK system
There are no marks, what position is the slot supposed to be in, with engine @ TDC?

And once this is correct, how do you confirm the CAS itself is not 180? out, it seems sealed?
My guess is it don't matter.

I have no interest in actually learning anything about how this works yet, I am simply installing
parts for an enthusiast from here, who does not have time currently for wrenching.

Please do not point me to the 8 page CAS thread. I skimmed it, lost interest and hope for an answer.

Thanks!
At least you honestly disclose your laziness and expectations that others will donate their time instead of you spending a little time and effort.
 

stove

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
It's not about laziness. It's about needlessly having to charge someone for my time installing something that should have simple instructions with it. It's not like it's a cheap product, or that it doesn't take forever to receive. I just thought a simple answer could be had this way. Guess I forgot the TB way.
 

stove

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
How about this. IS there an answer to my question in the 8 pages of information, (which has the first 5 posts deleted??) that is otherwise completely irrelevant to my OP? If so I'll gladly muck through the mind numbing subject to save the TB the time.
 
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JohnMc

PV Abuser
300+ Club
Joined
May 10, 2004
Location
St. Louis
I don't know if there's an answer in that 8 page thread. I just saw a pic of what position the high res shutter wheel should be in at #1 TDC, and then fussed with it until that happened.

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=6058707&postcount=208

The cap on the CAS is easily removed, a couple of screws and it has a little gasket to keep dust out.

You'll still obviously need to do fine tuning from there with a timing light, and possible futz around with the trigger angle setting in MS. To a certain extent, youi could probably slam that CAS in at almost any position and get it to work by futzing with the trigger angle.
 

stove

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
I don't know if there's an answer in that 8 page thread. I just saw a pic of what position the high res shutter wheel should be in at #1 TDC, and then fussed with it until that happened.

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=6058707&postcount=208

The cap on the CAS is easily removed, a couple of screws and it has a little gasket to keep dust out.

You'll still obviously need to do fine tuning from there with a timing light, and possible futz around with the trigger angle setting in MS. To a certain extent, youi could probably slam that CAS in at almost any position and get it to work by futzing with the trigger angle.

Excellent, thank you so much!

Cheers,

~ Steve
 

JohnMc

PV Abuser
300+ Club
Joined
May 10, 2004
Location
St. Louis
I think that thread was a bit more useful (at least on the early pages) before gross polluter got pissed of at something and edited all his posts to a '.'
 

Alan29

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Location
Hell, FL
It's been a bit but you could wayback the thread and get all the relevant info before the cleansing.
 

linuxman51

Railspeeder Enthusiast #1
300+ Club
Joined
Dec 25, 2002
Location
mont, AL
you drop it in. how you wish to approach that with respect to how the software gets set up with ______________ standalone is, for lack of a better term, dealer's choice.

If you're gonna be lazy, we're gonna be lazy.
 

linuxman51

Railspeeder Enthusiast #1
300+ Club
Joined
Dec 25, 2002
Location
mont, AL
Did grass grow? A bird chirp? Or the wind blow? It doesn?t take much :lol:

never had that particular issue with him, but folks want to argue about stuff they know nothing about, and if one is on some level inclined to be a helpful person and gets bull**** pushed back some of us respond in kind.
 

142 guy

Member
Joined
May 31, 2014
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
You will need to install the Yoshifab high resolution trigger disc in the sensor because I am not aware of any of the OEM discs that can be made to work - at least with MSExtra. When swapping discs do not separate the actual optical detector from the body of the sensor. Loosen the retaining nut, slide the OEM disc out of the optical detector, slide the new disc in place and tighten the nut. Mount the sensor on the Yoshifab adapter. The sensor will have 4 pins, cam out, tach out, ground and +12v. I believe the pin assignment varies depending on the OEM that 'donates' the sensor so you will need to figure that out depending on what sensor you are using. If you temporarily power up the sensor and connect temporary pull ups to the cam and tach lines you can detect the cam and tach signals with a test light. You will want to install the sensor / adapter in the block with the cam signal occurring at some defined offset angle before #1 TDC firing.

The offset angle before #1 TDC will depend on the ECU that you are using which will influence whether you trigger on cam pulse going high or going low which then defines the next tach 'tooth' as #1. You can fine tune the rotation of the Yoshifab adapter to get the offset angle you want; but, the adapter needs to be relatively close when it goes in. I don't know about the OHC blocks; but, on the B20 you are restricted in the ability to rotate the sensor because the hardware bangs into the block.

The selection of the offset angle, the going high and low stuff and the ignition outputs will depend on the controller / firmware that you are using and the hardware configuration of the coils and drivers. Getting the sensor and adapter into the block and the sensor wiring done is the trivial part. Getting the firmware configuration set up so that it works is the hard part and that depends on the system that you are installing.
 
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