E-Code install and wiring harness & relays

[wgusler]

E-Code install and wiring harness & relays
I have completed the front end / AC work on the 245 along with installing the new E Codes.

The car had residual front end damages for my daughter rear ending someone a couple years ago. The core support was twisted and nothing aligned correctly and the AC was dead. I decided to fix all this at one time, so after finding a pristine radiator support and condenser, off we go.

I ordered new OEM Volvo moldings and grille from SKANDIX, new compressor, expansion valve/ drier and a Spal 16" pusher fan/ brackets/ gasket and some Hella super tone horns. Relays and bulbs from Daniel Stern Lighting and decals / harness sleeve / connectors and a fixed 14.5 V voltage regulator from Dave Barton.

Painted the used radiator support and lower spoiler in base clear and tore down the front end. Found the paint was damaged under the battery but no rust. The battery tray was fiberglass (?) and in perfect shape. I can't believe after 27 years there is no rust or corrosion around the battery with the exception of the battery tray bolts. Cleaned, primed and repainted the inner fender area.



After building my new wiring harnesses for the headlights, A/C fan , horns and relays and doing a mock up on the new core support, needed somewhere to mount the relays, fuse panel and wiring. The inner fender was a good spot but the PS pump and coil were in the way .

I noticed that some of the older Volvos and the 90-93 used a PS pump with a reservoir on top of the pump. Priced out a rebuilt pump and pressure line.....Nope. My pump was perfect so I just moved the reservoir to the other side. No turbo , so we have plenty of room.


The return line on the pump was pointed to the right, so I drained the pump, heated the housing and re-clocked the return inlet towards the left side.


Didn't like the routing of the factor battery cables, so replaced them with 100% copper fine strand #2 welding cable and routed them both from the battery, thru the strut tower and down to the motor. Covered all non fuse protected cable with heavy duty fiberglass shielding.




Replaced the voltage regulator, fan clutch with a Tropical and new AC compressor. Mounted the new rad support, condenser, AC fan, horns and harnesses.


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Mounted the relays and fuse box and wired it all up.

Now for the good stuff. New bumper, moldings, grille and e-codes. All brand new Volvo parts!




The obligatory before and after pictures:
Before:

After:

New caution sticker from Dave Barton ...

 

[oldschoolvolvo]

wow, that is some serious wiring! good work.

 

[Steve Zissou]

The E-Codes look great, and I just looooove what you've done with the chassis electrical. Really lovely.

Could you take a moment and explain this pic a little? Are you using one relay per headlamp? What is that thing that everything appears to be grounded to, is that where the factory bolt just screwed into the fender? And what's the thing in the top that has 4 connections going to it? Thanks

Mounted the relays and fuse box and wired it all up.


And last (couple) questions: Where did you get the battery terminal connector and who made it, and do you work in 12 volt, like as an installer or anything?

Awesome car and that has to be one of the most satisfying photos for me on all of turbobricks.

 

[eurotrash940]

Watching - my 940 e-codes are wired in correctly, but not this neatly - interested in the answers to all of these questions being asked above!

GREAT install and great looking car.

 

[photoman327]

Good job

 

[philski o'flood]

lookin' good. You might want to get that protective clear film stuff or the plastic covers to keep them from getting dinged up

 

[Owsley]

Awesome install. You'll be happy with the light.

 

[wgusler]

Are you using one relay per headlamp?

No, one relay for High beam and one for low. Third relay is for the A/C electric fan on the condenser.


What is that thing that everything appears to be grounded to, is that where the factory bolt just screwed into the fender?

A ground lug from Fastronix mounted to the inner with stainless screws. I ran a #10 ground direct from the battery and used it as a ground for the relays, headlights fan and horns. Sold on amazon here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015EJR20C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And what's the thing in the top that has 4 connections going to it? Thanks

4 lug fuse panel for marine applications. Fuses for all the above. Again, Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1MS1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



And last (couple) questions: Where did you get the battery terminal connector and who made it,

Rockford Fosgate battery terminal, will terminate two cables up to #0 gauge and two additional cables up to #4 gauge......Amazon, but they are very proud of it.......$28 each:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PK9MIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



and do you work in 12 volt, like as an installer or anything?

No, but my father was an electrical engineer for Lockheed Martin and we did not have and sloppy wiring or "crimp crap" as he called it going on at our house. I haven't ever used a crimp connection other than large gauge cables in my life. I would strip and solder wires when he was working on stuff as a kid. Made me strip wires with side cutters, never owned any wire strippers. So I was brought up right to be anal about wiring.

I have done a lot of wiring on race cars / bikes in my younger years.

Awesome car and that has to be one of the most satisfying photos for me on all of turbobricks.[/QUOTE]

thanks, I appreciate that.

 

[57plymouth]

Where did you get the E-codes?

 

[cleanflametrap]

No, but my father was an electrical engineer for Lockheed Martin and we did not have and sloppy wiring or "crimp crap" as he called it going on at our house. I haven't ever used a crimp connection other than large gauge cables in my life. I would strip and solder wires when he was working on stuff as a kid. Made me strip wires with side cutters, never owned any wire strippers. So I was brought up right to be anal about wiring.

Beautiful work!!

 

[wgusler]

Where did you get the E-codes?

Skandix

Read this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322799

 

[oldschoolvolvo]

What gauge wire did you run out to each headlight? 12g?

 

[wgusler]

What gauge wire did you run out to each headlight? 12g?

Fine strand 12AWG pure silicone wire.

 

[57plymouth]

Skandix

Read this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322799

Thank you.

 

[XxJenoxX]

I'm gonna be that guy and bump an old thread here. Where did you get the 12awg silicone wire? We have a few iterations of silicone jacketed wire at work. Some is the sticky crap and some is this beautiful, smooth, flexible test lead wire that would be awesome if I could find it in 12awg. But I have NO CLUE where we got the good stuff.

 

[Ursan]

I've used this before with good success. ebay or Amazon may sell for less.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/p.php?pageNum_FindKeywordrst=2&totalRows_FindKeywordrst=116&s=12+awg+wire&sb=+

 

[57plymouth]

I'm gonna be that guy and bump an old thread here. Where did you get the 12awg silicone wire? We have a few iterations of silicone jacketed wire at work. Some is the sticky crap and some is this beautiful, smooth, flexible test lead wire that would be awesome if I could find it in 12awg. But I have NO CLUE where we got the good stuff.

Have you looked at Monoprice?

 

[XxJenoxX]

Monoprice only appears to sell speaker wire and assembled cables. Painless is a no-go on amazon any cheaper. (Or more realistically, any shorter lengths. I don't need 150 total feet of wire.)

 

[DET17]

No, but my father was an electrical engineer for Lockheed Martin and we did not have and sloppy wiring or "crimp crap" as he called it going on at our house. I haven't ever used a crimp connection other than large gauge cables in my life. I would strip and solder wires when he was working on stuff as a kid. Made me strip wires with side cutters, never owned any wire strippers. So I was brought up right to be anal about wiring.

I believe your old man's teacher and mine might have been the same guy! No STEENKING crimps..... everything is stripped, proper crimped into a PROPER copper connector, soldered and heat shrinked. Learned everything I know from a guy in SOCAL who is on the web as "MADELECTRICAL". If you read his free HOW TO manuals, he teaches the proper methods for making wiring connections that are bulletproof.

Nicely done sir! The only warning I'll add, is NEVER trust a bolted together connection for ground paths. I've heard of restoration nightmares, where none of the front clip lights would burn... everything pristinely powder coated.... because there was no ground path to the battery!

Carry on

 

[culberro]

Not silicone, but cross-linked txl and gxl is my go-to for fancy wiring. https://www.delcity.net/store/Cross!Link-Wire/p_804928

You can also get Tefzel for cheap-ish on ebay.