• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Engine With Mind Of Its Own

WAGONRACER

WAGONRACER

300+ Member
300+ Club
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Location
Norwich, Norfolk, England
Hey Guys ( And Girls???) Have A 940 Turbo Estate Bf200t Engine Running Cold Intake And Cone Filter, Adjustable Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator(set At 3 Bar), Performance Leads , Colder Plugs, No Cat And 12 Psi Boost (with Standard Snail Sized Turbo) Just Basic Stuff Really But After Using Heavy Throttle The Car Will Idle High ( 2000 Rpm) But Drop Back Down Ocasionally Only To Return To High Idle, If You Turn The Ignition Off And On Again It Normally Stops This Also There Is A Light On On The Dash Which According To The Handbook Means " Car Will Not Pass Emisions Requirements" Sounds A Bit Ecofriendly To Me! . Have Tried Disconecting Battery To Reset Ecu And The Problem Appeared To Go Away Only To Appear Again When The Light Lit Up Again. Anyway If Anyone Has Any Ideas As To What Is Wrong Or Can Even Tell Me What Might Be Causing The Light To Come On...
Nice One
 
ok so have you noticed that if you drive nice and calm and slow and never vent the BOV the check engine light will NOT come on and the idle will not be really high

check your TPS as it is prob out of adjustment .. otherwise it is just something you will always run into on these cars w/ stock chips or aftermarket ones.

myself w/ the stock chip i never had a problem, w/ the viking chip i never had a problem but with freds chips i do get this problem on my car when i vent the bov to often
 
air idle valve ? remove clean replace ?

you can use dump valves but they sometimes send a check engine light and the ecu into full rich , since it cant tell whats happening .

using a recirc will remove any of thos eissues - if its still doing it - its most likely the air idle valve

it may also be lambda sensor fault - if that is what is throwing the light regardless of your idling issues
 
WAGONRACER said:
Hmm Interisting Will Go Check Tps And Reconect Standard Rec' Valve/ Dissconect Dump Valve . Back In 10 Mins
Click to expand...

RIGHT LOOKS LIKE YOU WERE CORRECT THERE DISSCONECTED BOV ALL AS HAPPY AS LARRY . MAYBE YOU CAN HELP WITH ANOTHER PROB :

WHEN ACCELERATING HARD( FOOT FLAT DOWN FROM LAUNCH) IN FIRST AND SECOND CAR WILL "MISS" VIOLENTLY. IS THIS A TIMING PROBLEM ( HAVE SET TO STANDARD 12 DEGREES BTDC. AS PER HANDBOOK... BUT OBVIOUSLY RUNNING A BIT MORE BOOST NOW) . OR BLOCKED FUEL FILTER (HAVE LOOKED UNDER CAR AND IT IS ALL NICE AND SHINY NEW LOOKING ON THE... OUTSIDE) OR SOMTHING ELSE ?
 
yea try dropping the gap to .028 as that might help

tho check to make sure you have good wires .. and the coil cap and rotor are all in good shape
 
as long as you did not get bosch plug wires you should be fine as thier wires seem to be made out of paper and do not hold up to the heat in an engine bay
 
Poik said:
This thread angers me.
Click to expand...

why?

BB-Q said:
You need Fred's chips- trust me on this. Gets rid of the cut on the B200FT just fine.
Click to expand...

and freds chips will not fit the check engine light from running a bov ... hell his chips are what caused me to get it as i never got it with the stock or viking chip ... sad thing is i ran a better 1/4 mile time with less mods and the viking chip than i did with his fuel chip and a hell of a lot more mods/air flow
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top