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fitting an alternator on a 66 122s

The B18 doesn't have the mounting point for that.

Ad if you're going to adapt something other than what you already have on hand, might as well not use the old Volvo stuff, but the common, cheap, easy to find Delco stuff.

Hmmm. For the 140 conversion I just used the B20 mount point (and you're right, only the late B18's have the hole drilled) and for the 240 mount I used the standard generator mounts that are still on every B20 I've ever seen. I was just trying to give a few options.

Here's the bracket for the 90 amp alternator.


The Denso unit is as common as ditch water and as reliable as the rising Sun. I kind of like my "Old Volvo Stuff".
If you need an alternator for that bracket I can get Delco's fairly cheap in 105a, and some even higher.
You can run it as a one-wire, or with a turn on lead and have the ability to adjust your output voltage.

I realize this is an ancient thread, but I ran across it again while doing some research and wanted to chime in with a couple of stupid comments. First, a big THANKS all who recommended the engineered Sw-Em alt kit!

Advice often seen: "simply install a "One-Wire" Alternator..." that's oversimplified advice (it comes from people working on tractors, who apparently have trouble when working with more than ONE wire!), given by those who want to make it sound as easy as possible...what they don't mention is that when doing that, you also loose AMP Indicator function! If you can handle following specific detailed instructions, and connecting up all of THREE whole wires without screwing it up, that's the preferred way...and you'll retain the function of the AMP Indicator...just like before!

A couple of words about installing a 100A Alternator: First, a question: What would you possibly need that much power for in your car? Add up all the Loads (including the intermittent/occasional ones like Window lifts and Rear Window Defroggers) and you'd probably have trouble exceeding 1200W. And if you have a 1000W stereo installed, know that it draws less than 1/10 of that when turned up to make your ears bleed!...the only times it truly draws 1000W is on bass peaks, and they don't last very long (unless your showing off, in which case I probably can't help you!). If you want to supply bass peaks for a killer stereo, install some soup-can capacitors, and be done with it!

Also, those 100A don't come from nowhere!...they come from the engine...more specifically, the Crankshaft, by way of the Crankpulley, Fanbelt and (sheetmetal) Water Pump Pulley...if you install a 100A Alt, in order to transfer that much mechanical energy through one belt (without squealing like a pig, if it's possible at all), you'll have to tighten up the Belt like that of a high-wire act across Niagara Falls...then you may get this for free:
...so good luck!

...and I haven't even mentioned the wiring yet...remember...when strengthening one part, the next weakest link in the chain will be the one to break! If you simply want a reliable electrical system in your vintage Volvo, vigorous Wipers, WHITE Headlights, and a fully charged Battery with which to get started next time, I recommend and have engineered the kit to install a 60A Alt...then drive it like you hate it, knowing that it will likely be as reliable as before...as thousand of customer miles have shown!

See also: http://www.sw-em.com/altkit_additional.htm

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