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Flame Trap Modernization and Other Stage 0 Questions

Souped

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
My big goal right now is to get my rallyx car into daily driver land, since all the events around me are a 1+ hour drive. I've been running into some knowledge roadblocks, since all the 85- cars have been crushed. I'm working with a 1983 B23F.

I. Flame Trap

All the oil bleeding from my oil fill cap is telling me the flame trap has never been serviced. I am planning to replace my PCV system with the 88/89+ version, since I know I will never service the flame trap if it is a pain in the ass. Since I read bad reviews of the IPD extension kit here, I thought I would go with OEM if possible.

I have these diagrams from IPD, which are less than handy since there is no key for the letters in the parts diagram. Breather box looks different, hose routing looks different, block looks different. The later breather box looks taller, so I'm not sure if the hose labeled E will get me above the intake manifold. I'm also seeing copper (looking) flame traps along with the white plastic ones I'm used to. Benefit to going with the copper? Every white one I've ever had in my hand crumbled, but I've never had a new one in the hand.
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II. Crank Pulley/Harmonic Balancer

Was talking to Lando recently about my detonation problem. He suggested seeing if my crank pulley had separated along the rubber isolating ring between the inside and outside pieces. I was (trying my best) to get a good look at my crank pulley and see that it is very different from the B230 ones. It looks like just a big ole hunka steel. Is the separation issue on the crank pulleys just a B230 issue, or does it apply to earlier models as well?

III. Long Flexible Brake Lines

As I go deeper, I think I'll be swapping front struts and springs a lot. Did my front struts a couple weeks ago, and noticed I was putting a lot of flex on the brake hard lines. Would I run into any issues replacing both the flexible line and the hard line with one long flexible line all the way to the block on/near the frame? Has this already been done and figured out?

IV. Head Bolts

Any issue with running the later hex headed head bolts in place of the allen head bolts? The torquing proceedure looks much simpler.

V. Reference Material

Can any of y'all point me toward a 240 parts catalog in English to reference OEM part numbers from?

Also looking for a greenbook that covers the evap system up to 83/84 with LH. The one I have covers those years, but only K-jet. Seems like my fuel tank is pressurizing. Got gas blowing past the cap and I can hear it hissing after I drive the car.
 
1 Everything from the 88-93 setup fits just get everything. I also add the oil filler cap with one from a B20 for easy additional crank ventilation. I T it into the large hose going to next to the throttle body.
2 Early crank pulleys don't have the damper rubber. It's solid just make sure the little bolts are all in good shape and you may want to upgrade the hardware rating on them to 10.9 or 12.9.
3 The lines are setup like that for clearance and they do that wrap around the strut to meet up to the caliper. Stay with what is there.
Maybe add some support bracketing?
4 Yes, the newer head bolts are good. Also can get higher grade from KL Racing.
5 I look at gcp.se a lot but only some of it is in English. I also bought the catalog of 88-93 parts back when it used to be printed. But no one seems to have any scans of the original catalogs they share other than gcp.se.
6 I would look on ebay for a printed Evap system greenbook. Also
OZVolvo has scans of this stuff.
Hope that helps some. I am happy to look stuff up for people. I am
thinking of setting up an old computer with the date back dated so I can run VADIS again. That was so very handy and I never did figure out if the hackers had a full date crack on that or not. The software
ran out in 2017 if I recall correctly. It just would not run unless the date was set back. lol.
 
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