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(formerly) The $700 1988 245

What brake fluid are you currently running? Dot5.1 also helps a lot for keeping the brakes together and is a cheap upgrade. Nankang NS-2R's are also pretty reasonable on the street, and amazing on track, on my brothers car they lasted through a long eastern europe roadtrip without wearing down a lot. Just resist the right foot in the rain, the grip threshold is pretty instant when cold
 
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I can't believe I forgot to take a picture of the ///M240i badge
 
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Wasn't quite enough to fool them into letting me park with the e30s.

Harlard said:
Was that an Alfa passing you after the butt pucker corner?
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Nah, just a Miata. There was a Dodge Omni there tho.

Swedbrick said:
What brake fluid are you currently running? Dot5.1 also helps a lot for keeping the brakes together and is a cheap upgrade. Nankang NS-2R's are also pretty reasonable on the street, and amazing on track, on my brothers car they lasted through a long eastern europe roadtrip without wearing down a lot. Just resist the right foot in the rain, the grip threshold is pretty instant when cold
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Dot4 ATE typ 200 I think. I ordered some fancy brake pads that'll hopefully do the trick and I've been thinking about different wheels. I like the virgos but 16s would really open up tire choices.
 
The multi-x wheels that came on the bertone might also be a good option, they are 15x7j, so they should allow for the r15/205 or r15/215 the honda guys run on track, they are also relatively light at 7.7kg. Most of the oem volvo 16inch wheels are proper boat anchors at 10kg, which will worsen your braking situation, my stock brakes clearly had issues with my upgrade to 17inch from the light oem 15inch nova's.
 
The new brakes work nice, I went to Palmer again last week and ran a handful of 2:13s, and two 2:11s. That's at low boost, since the controller is still disconnected and my wastegate now works properly. I guess it fixed itself at some point. Still using the 740tw Yokohamas for now. They still have tread, but they were really starting to feel loosey goosey. And they got kinda melty.

But then this week I broke the ECU, somehow. Darn thing.

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It was doing some funky stuff, wouldn't start a few times, now it's dead, again. :roll:

(Last time it died because I gave it 12v straight into one of the inputs.. so I can't really blame it for that. I'm still miffed though.)
 
If you are running track alot try some Hankook RS4s. If unavailable try the Falken RT615k+. Both are 200TW tires and should last about 24-48 hours on the track.
 
I got a set of 225/50/16 Azenis last fall, and ordered some swanky (heavy) steelies hoping they would bolt straight on. With 5x108 and the correct center bore they do fit awesome in the rear, but the front is a sadder story. Needs 13mm stacks of washers to clear the calipers. I was expecting a cheeky poke (16x7 ET0) but now it's just taking the piss. I reckon with a little angle grinder work I'll be able to use a 10mm spacer and I'll just have to get over the poke. Scrub radius be damned.
(How much meat is on the calipers?)

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Other than that I've just been driving the car occasionally. I got a used TRW rack that I'll install when it's not freezing. It's really too bad about the whole salt and rust dealio cause I really like driving this thing in the snow.

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The General Altimaxes aren't as good as my old Nord Frosts but they're good enough.
 
Cwazywazy said:
The General Altimaxes aren't as good as my old Nord Frosts but they're good enough.
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that's exactly how I feel about my Altimaxes, they're cheap at least.

Buy my 15" Nord Frosts on the SAAB wheels, they have like one season on them. I can't get rid of the things, would sell soooper cheap at this point.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
that's exactly how I feel about my Altimaxes, they're cheap at least.

Buy my 15" Nord Frosts on the SAAB wheels, they have like one season on them. I can't get rid of the things, would sell soooper cheap at this point.
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I think I sent your fb ad to a friend, guess he didn't want em. My Saab is a 4 lugger.

I still have entirely too many tires/wheels despite giving away a few.

Might take you up on that offer to borrow your spacers, if that still stands.
 
Cwazywazy said:
I think I sent your fb ad to a friend, guess he didn't want em. My Saab is a 4 lugger.

I still have entirely too many tires/wheels despite giving away a few.

Might take you up on that offer to borrow your spacers, if that still stands.
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Yes! Actually would like to ask a favor in return; if you haven't installed that RSI cam yet I want to get a measurement of the base circle to compare it against the one I just got in from Sweeeeeden
 
Installed used rack and set the toe. It works I guess. It doesn't feel as tight as the old one in the center, not really like it has play in it, more like it just feels kinda soft. Not as sharp and responsive. I got a reman rack that I guess I'll install if/when this one starts leaking. I also need to figure out a way to measure camber on my wonky driveway or somewhere, on the passenger side it's way off the factory mark. (I had it aligned a few years back) Got me a 25mm swaybar now too.

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I revisited the exhaust for the umpteenth time. It rusted out and broke behind the resonator so I took the mid section out and replaced everything rusty, there were a good amount of small holes. Got rid of the flex pipe too. While I was under there I made a mental note that I was gonna have to replace the paper thin race weight downpipe at some point. Two days later I had to replace the downpipe after it broke. At least gave me the opportunity to elongate it a little so I can actually change my oil filter now.

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Nice to have it quiet ish again. Now at certain speeds pretty much all I hear is the rear end clattering away. Speaking of the rear end, I finally purged the car of all 40 year old suspension rubber with poly bushings in the panhard.

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I haven't noticed a difference after doing that but I don't think I could expect to with the roly poly snow tires.
 
Just for fun I put the stock black aluminum intercooler in. My idea was that if it wasn't too bad in terms of intake temps it might be good to use for trackdays since I imagine it lets a lot more air flow through the radiator vs the KLRacing intercooler. I don't think I'm gonna do that after seeing the intake temps on the street.

Peak boost:
21.5psi - stock IC
23.3psi - KLR IC

Intake temp before and after second gear pull:
38-64f - stock IC
40-43f - KLR IC

I saw as high as 120f in third gear. I kinda wanna get on the highway and see how high it'll go. For reference, in the summer on the track with the big shiny intercooler the intake temps would barely go over 100f.
 
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I like the wheels, I like the tires, I hate the poke. Half inch cheapie spacers in there to clear the calipers.

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Slight rust reduction

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Not entirely confident that I'll be able to fill that gap with weld, but I can try.

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It has a $320 Spartan helical now. It's kinda ehhh but way nicer than the locker as far as street manners go.

Also, running all efans as well as fuel pump and ECU stuff off a cheap fuse block from Summit may have been a mistake, that resulted in me getting towed off Lime Rock twice. Some re-wiring is gonna have to happen. (The description for the fuse block said 100 amps!)

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The used rack that I very much overpaid for off FMB lasted an entire-ass month before all the fluid went into the tie rod boots. Maval TRW rack was installed. I don't get how my super leaky shaky original cam 2 rack could feel so incredibly tight and connected going down the road compared to a new reman. Oh well, it's not leaking.
 
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