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Gilda, the 92 240 GL

Two small updates

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Fog lights rewired! Something I've been meaning to do for awhile but was continually thwarted by other things like valve spring failure. Did a much better job of it this time than I did when I wired them 2 years ago

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Second off, while giving the car a general look over up in the air I found the spring under the driveshaft center donut to have dislocated itself? Annoying, but it conveniently caught the little washer it sits on, so...

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Fixed!

More soon
 
It's been awhile, but back under the knife again.

She's needed a clutch for a good, long while. That's what happens when the previous owner, his girlfriend, you, and two of your friends all learn stick on the same clutch. After finally having enough of my college instructors stalling and coming up with shiny new excuses to why I couldn't possibly do a clutch, on a 240, on a lift, I decided to rip the band-aid off and drive to my friend's place and do it on stands

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Order of business no1, get that pesky clutch cable out of there, easy money once you (gently) clamp some vice grips on there so spinning the adjuster isn't spinning the sheath with it.

Past that point I got extremely invested and didn't take any pictures till I had the transmission out of the car, had to work fast to get this done in the friday-sunday period to be back for class.

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Got the trans out, turns out the rear main is totally fine, and it's actually the pan gasket that's leaking, so that's fun, I guess?

The 300K-Mile M47 exhibited remarkably low amounts of input shaft play, and seems to be pretty healthy, just had to scrub the oil out of the bellhousing.

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For my next act I had to extract the pilot bearing, of course I didn't have a puller, or even a loaf of bread on hand, but I did have some grease. To be completely honest I did not have high hopes the grease trick would even work, but after wrapping some tape around a 240 bumper shock bolt and getting to whacking, pops right out. Sick.

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Goodbye extraordinarily heavy flywheel

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Hello fancy shiny new flywheel!

Also a word of warning. The flat flywheel requires an 85- clutch kit, it's all the same EXCEPT the mounting system for the throwout bearing to clutch fork. I solved this issue by swapping the metal tabs that the old TOB used to the new one. But if you're going to do this yourself, save the trouble and get a later model throwout bearing (or an earlier fork, maybe?)

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Cue some classic rock song in the background

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This is NOT a clean job

Past that point I enlisted the help of two friends to do the shittiest part, getting the trans back into the car, Volvo really weren't kind with the size of the starter hump on the trans, oh how much easier this would've been with a trans jack, and a lift... eventually it did engage the splines and mate to the car, it does require convincing to get over the dowels though.

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Then it was just a matter of re-grease and install the shifter, bolt the crossmembers back up (this sucked on account of my wore out motor mounts) and generally put the car back together, unfortunately the old shifter insulating foam disintegrated, if anyone has one of those laying around I'd like to put SOMETHING back in that void.

Took the car for a run to break in the clutch afterwards, drives great, shifts great, doesn't rev hang so bad, doesn't chatter a ton like the old clutch and doesn't bite at the tip top of pedal travel, I'll say mission success.

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I also took the opportunity to grab a box of my parts, so I took the next day after class to beat the front end into some semblance of the right shape and put the front bumper trim back on.

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Cleans up good for a totaled car.

Until next time!
 
RAPTOR479 said:
It's been awhile, but back under the knife again.

She's needed a clutch for a good, long while. That's what happens when the previous owner, his girlfriend, you, and two of your friends all learn stick on the same clutch. After finally having enough of my college instructors stalling and coming up with shiny new excuses to why I couldn't possibly do a clutch, on a 240, on a lift, I decided to rip the band-aid off and drive to my friend's place and do it on stands
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sweet so now that u have the new clutch you can show me how to drive stick :D
 
Crustacean Wagon said:
Just caught up on the whole thread! Love the car and your dedication.

Im in western mass and might have a good gold front end for you up at a friends place.
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Extremely interested if they're not wrecked like the current ones, like seriously I think the current hood was cleared with a snow shovel every day of every winter for 3 decades
 
Some more updates on the car. About a month ago I pressed new U-Joints into the driveshaft because I felt play in them doing the clutch and installed an under-hood light for swag. Forgot to make a post for that.

This past weekend returned to my friend's place to do motor mounts and a bunch of work to their cars.

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Started off strong on night 1 with an absolutely mind-blowing aurora borealis. I picked the right night to drive up.

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Later on day 2 after working on another car I decided to put the aftermarket cam gear that was installed at 0deg of advance on an M cam when I bought the car to use, the A doesn't necessarily like to idle happily with LH (may also be related to my horrible downpipe exhaust leak) but more importantly it exhibits a relatively decent torque hole low in the powerband. So I decided to throw 4deg of advance at it and see what it did. (Seat of the pants dyno says it did something)

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I've had the top of this timing system off so many times it's almost second nature. Fun fact, gates doesn't make blue kevlar square tooth belts for redblocks anymore, only the round tooth 93+ belts, so that sucks.

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After more work on my friend's cars i decided to tackle the motor mounts I'd initially intended to do. Pulling my 240 in next to the NA M56 855 I'd replaced the blower motor on earlier that day and the timing belt on last time I was up there, home is where the cars are.

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I greatly overestimated the difficulty of this job. Even on jackstands with basic hand tools it only takes a couple hours, even lining up the brackets myself wasn't that bad. The key is to do one mount at a time and remove the oil filter for better access, use it as an excuse to do an oil change while the car is on stands like I did.

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That's all for now. If you've got a car to fix go fix it and if you've got a car to drive go drive it. Cold fall air = more horsepower or so I've heard
 
No reason to spend more money on the blue Gates belt, especially with an A cam which has such a slow ramp. People have been using pinto belts on 14-16mm lift 37mm bucket cams for awhile, though I can see the advantage of a round tooth belt in a manual if you're driving like you want to kill the car.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
No reason to spend more money on the blue Gates belt, especially with an A cam which has such a slow ramp. People have been using pinto belts on 14-16mm lift 37mm bucket cams for awhile, though I can see the advantage of a round tooth belt in a manual if you're driving like you want to kill the car.
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The blue gates belt has been helpful for me since I've had it on/off so many times from a strength standpoint. It still looks/feels good. Not sure how much worse a rubber belt would be or if it'd be worse at all but it's nice peace of mind
 
RAPTOR479 said:
I could convert the motor to round tooth pretty easily but I'd have to find a different adjustible cam gear. Would've been much easier if gates didn't just dump the majority of redblocks
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I gotta check mine, I've heard rumblings that some '92's had round tooths, probaby late ones. But I could be wrong, The date on my door jam says 10/91, which I guess would be sorta late into the '92, unless they actually made model yr 92's in 1992 as well. I doubt it does but I'm curious to see when I have a reason to take the timing cover off. I mainly care because supposedly round tooth ='s oil squirters which would be nice. But it's highly unlikely but...

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symbioticsamba said:
I gotta check mine, I've heard rumblings that some '92's had round tooths, probaby late ones. But I could be wrong, The date on my door jam says 10/91, which I guess would be sorta late into the '92, unless they actually made model yr 92's in 1992 as well. I doubt it does but I'm curious to see when I have a reason to take the timing cover off. I mainly care because supposedly round tooth ='s oil squirters which would be nice. But it's highly unlikely but...

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That'd be a really cool thing to find out! Fortunately it's plenty easy to pop the cover off
 
Its been awhile since the last update, not for lack of work just for lack of time, so here goes a bunch of stuff.

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I'd known that the water pump had a slight seep for awhile, but while I was doing the clutch, and again when I did the motor mounts, I noticed it was bad enough to be leaking coolant down the front of the engine. So I decided that the time had come to replace it.
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The cardboard over the alternator trick works great for draining coolant

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Whoever put the last pump in made the mistake of sliding it into place and deformed the top seal to the block, somehow this was not the point where it was leaking from.

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Hepu also appears to have changed their casting, the old pump has HEPU GERMANY stamped into it, the new one is just blank, hopefully the quality is the same between the two.

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It was a pretty painless install from there, transfered the studs from the old pump to new, bolted it up and filled it with coolant, it's worked great and hasn't leaked ever since.

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A couple weeks later I decided to tackle the relatively serious downpipe flange gasket leak, to my immense surprise the nuts actually came off and didn't shrear the studs. Don't mind that there's almost no threads left on the studs. I'll change those, eventually...

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In all the flange gasket wound up being a much easier time than I'd expected, primarily since all the hardware came off, and that part of the exhaust (at least) has been leak free since.

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And finally, with winter on the way, I decided to pick up some wheels for my snow tires that don't look like garbage. Three of them cleaned up really nice, except for one outlier that was a really beat to hell machined face wheel, so I went about fixing that. First by sanding the corrosion off.

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Then I masked it, hit it with some primer and random silver metallic toyota paint from autozone that matches pretty alright.

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And there you have it, a nice set of winter wheels that I'm not ashamed to look at on the car.

That's all for this installment, and remember, the season of snow drifts draws closer.
 
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