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Hard-wiring 240T tail lights

bdimag said:
i've looked all over for the larger than 1/4" quick disconnects... they'd need to be 5/16".

i can't even find them w/ an electronic component distributer (Mouser)... they seem pretty non existent...

though, a trick is, using the .250 connectors, just roll the sides out; they'll fit on without any further modification.
Click to expand...

Even easier solution: Use tin snips to trim the contacts down to 1/4 inch. Worked perfect for me.
 
any clue what wires are what?

I imagine I can get a test light and probe the wires ...but I don't want to LOL
EDIT:
Oh you said it's possible to check the board so Ill have to look at that.
 
Last edited:
Krisverde said:
any clue what wires are what?

I imagine I can get a test light and probe the wires ...but I don't want to LOL
EDIT:
Oh you said it's possible to check the board so Ill have to look at that.
Click to expand...


I just did this over the weekend. I just cut the wires off @ the connector and left a little bit to ID them.

Finally don't have to deal sporadic tail lights.
 
Chuck W said:
I just did this over the weekend. I just cut the wires off @ the connector and left a little bit to ID them.

Finally don't have to deal sporadic tail lights.
Click to expand...
I dunno why but I find this confusing, but then again I'm real tired right now hahaha. Ill probably figure it out.


Posted via Mobile Device
 
Krisverde said:
I dunno why but I find this confusing, but then again I'm real tired right now hahaha. Ill probably figure it out.


Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...

You've got to cut the big factory connectors off to use the new connectors. Just leave enough wire hanging out of the factory connector when you cut it off. That way you can ID what color wires go to what on the PCB.

I soldered mine at the bulb holders, but if I ever have to do it again, I may just use the spade connectors.
 
Just did this on the DD. Went well and took about 2.5 hours or so.

I used a tin snips to trim the contacts down to 1/4" for the spade connectors and crimped everything. No bulb failure light! Just need to replace the tail lights now as they are crappy and leak quite a bit.
 
Yes, the white wire is the rear fog lamp wire. On 1984 and older cars here in North America, the wire isn't used, but is in the connectors on the sedans.

-J
 
When wiring these things, does it matter if I substitute the Dual filament holder with a single filament holder? Those photos don't show me where the dual filament would go if I used it.
 
Bump for relevance:

111121_0006.jpg


Mine didn't turn out pretty, but I did them without this thread's input. :e-shrug:

Red LED stop and running lights. Tried to use white LED reverse to no avail... incandescents in reverse and turn signals.

111121_0008.jpg


When my headlights are on, bulb failure light is ALWAYS on.
 
arnoroth661 said:
When my headlights are on, bulb failure light is ALWAYS on.
Click to expand...

Its because they dont draw enough power to show they're on. You need a "load resistor" across the tail lamps. About $3-5 each.

Most dont think its a big deal but with some cars - on brake lamps especially - it can FUBAR the cruise control.
 
15A said:
Its because they dont draw enough power to show they're on. You need a "load resistor" across the tail lamps. About $3-5 each.

Most dont think its a big deal but with some cars - on brake lamps especially - it can FUBAR the cruise control.
Click to expand...

I am aware of the need for resistors with a turn-signal application, and I guess I should've figured any other LED application would require the same to have %100 functionality of incandescents.

So it looks like I need a ****-ton of resistors; brake lamps, running lamps, reverse lamps, why not, turn signals and foglamps, too! :lol:
 
arnoroth661 said:
So it looks like I need a ****-ton of resistors; brake lamps, running lamps, reverse lamps, why not, turn signals and foglamps, too! :lol:
Click to expand...

What you did looks really good.

There was a place - I think it was something like "Design 42" (VW place) that sold a box unit that did several at a time. I've also seen some LED bulbs now with them built in to avoid the bulb-out scenario.

I haven't approached this issue yet (but intend to someday that I'm really bored or in too good of a mood :) ) - I did find that the 240 wagon lamps will accept a late 90's GM socket - which you can get at autoparts stores and come with a pigtail.
 
SuperbrightLED's has the resistors on their website. They do mention that most LED apps will need them.
 
15A said:
What you did looks really good.

There was a place - I think it was something like "Design 42" (VW place) that sold a box unit that did several at a time. I've also seen some LED bulbs now with them built in to avoid the bulb-out scenario.

I haven't approached this issue yet (but intend to someday that I'm really bored or in too good of a mood :) ) - I did find that the 240 wagon lamps will accept a late 90's GM socket - which you can get at autoparts stores and come with a pigtail.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I've just been drilling holes in my bulb terminals and soldering leads to 'em. :lol:

ZVOLVO240 said:
SuperbrightLED's has the resistors on their website. They do mention that most LED apps will need them.
Click to expand...

Hmm.

Anyway, hi-quality pics of the results:

NoFlashbrakeoff.jpg


NoFlashbrakeon.jpg
 
Also, discovered my white LED reverse bulbs have opposite polarity to what's stock in a 244. So... Since I've got it hard-wired, I'll switch the wires and try the LED bulbs. :e-shrug:

Will report back.
 
Bump to say this mod worked perfectly, better than I expected actually.

I am having absolutely no problems with my bulb failure light, The circuit boards made it go crazy and this fixed it all.

Also forgot to sand the coating off the contacts so that the solder would stick. An important step I overlooked.

Other thing is that (for the 244) you have to join both the reverse and fog lights on the drivers side and the running lights on both panels. This required me using a blue bullet connector for one side and the red on the other.


As a side note, I wired my taillights to be the early 80s style, where the fogs and brake lights are switched.
 
So I was planning on not using a solder for this and I got the supplies I thought was necessary.

I got an 18 gauge wire set, 3 boxes of female spade connectors (specifically 12-10 to fit the metal sticking out of the bulb mounts), also I got butt connectors.

Anything else I need to start the hard wiring process without soldering? I can solder but like some comments suggest, I want to be able to disconnect them later on and such.
 
Donedelacruz said:
So I was planning on not using a solder for this and I got the supplies I thought was necessary.

I got an 18 gauge wire set, 3 boxes of female spade connectors (specifically 12-10 to fit the metal sticking out of the bulb mounts), also I got butt connectors.

Anything else I need to start the hard wiring process without soldering? I can solder but like some comments suggest, I want to be able to disconnect them later on and such.
Click to expand...

the vibration from the la streets will knock the micky mouse loose, just solder them and forget about fixatickets
 
Having some confusing with my dad...

Can anyone provide a color code and what the colored wire has as a function? (brown-parking, etc).

We are having trouble having the parking lights and reverse lights go on.

Also is there even a fog light? Can't seem to find it
 
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