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240 Help, car ran fine then a second later runs like ISH

BoostIt

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2009
Location
Little Rock, AR
Driving through my neighborhood to go pick up dinner, car is running fine, then all of a sudden it goes BOG BOG BOG, missing while driving, park it, idling like ****, engine shaking like it did when i mixed up the plug wires once. lots of misses coming from downpipe (open dp, rest of it broke off). oil level and coolant level are fine despite my major oil leaks. turn the car off, oil pressure gauge pegged at 5 bar, tap it and it goes back to 0 bar. start it again, idles like ****. pull away to limp home and it barely kept itself running. jerking back and forth all the way home, kept it in 2nd at 2 grand. The kicker is that after barely making it up a hill, all of a sudden it starts to run fine for a couple seconds, then goes back to ****.

Details:
'82 244tic
replaced wiring harness with ipd one a year ago
replaced fuel filter in engine bay last july
bosch platinum plugs
no loose plug wires, cap and rotor look fine

I've been told it could be a spark plug gone bad since I was pushing it on the highway today and Bosch platinums are too hot of a spark to be run like that for extended periods of time. My family doesn't have a spare car and I have class and work tomorrow. I'm going to replace plugs first with NGK coppers. Any other insight or suggestions are more than welcome. I do not have correct tools to check in-tank fuel pump (told that might be it).

Here's a vid of it running, it's much worse in person. Engine shaking/ish sounding does not come through in video, note exhaust misses near end of vid.
thanks in advance for any tips or things to check.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid797.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy254%2FB20_122S%2FMVI_2968.mp4">
 
All you have to do to check if the in-tank pump is running is pop the gas cap off with the car running and listen for it. You should be able to hear it. I dunno though...when my in-tank went out, the car idled fine, just wouldn't get up and go.

Very difficult to diagnose without seeing it in person though. What do you have going on Thursday afternoon? I could ride up there and help you take a look at it.

Edit//embedded vid seems to be borked.

http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy254/B20_122S/?action=view&current=MVI_2968.mp4

Edit2//do you have access to a fuel pressure tester?
 
bosch platinum plugs

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just saying.
 
spounds like t belt jumped a tooth but it would never run rigjht at all, id say check plugs and wires, if its the intank pump limp to the gas station and fill her up to see if it makes a difference
 
All you have to do to check if the in-tank pump is running is pop the gas cap off with the car running and listen for it. You should be able to hear it. I dunno though...when my in-tank went out, the car idled fine, just wouldn't get up and go.

Very difficult to diagnose without seeing it in person though. What do you have going on Thursday afternoon? I could ride up there and help you take a look at it.

Edit//embedded vid seems to be borked.

http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy254/B20_122S/?action=view&current=MVI_2968.mp4

Edit2//do you have access to a fuel pressure tester?

Don't have a fuel pressure tester. Thursday I have class til 5pm.

spounds like t belt jumped a tooth but it would never run rigjht at all, id say check plugs and wires, if its the intank pump limp to the gas station and fill her up to see if it makes a difference

I could see the t belt from the back side of the timing cover and the whole gear looked a little bouncy, maybe only a couple mm though. the t belt didn't look like it was loose or skipping at all. good thing I ordered a replacement a few days ago anyways.



And I'm on my way to Autozone to pick up some NGK Copper Plus plugs. I'll report back if that helps and I'll pop the gas cap and listen with it running. Car has about half a tank, maybe less in it now.
 
Fix the wiring and get your oil pressure gauge working. When it pegs that means it's got no signal (wire usually broken/disconnected).
Check the dwell while driving to see what it's doing. If it was fine, then suddenly running like crap, it's *probably* also a wiring/electrical problem.

Thats assuming plugs don't fix it, fingers crossed.
 
I assume yours is a factory turbo by the year, I had that exact problem on my k-jet car and found out it was a bad vacuum line. Hook up a vacuum gauge and play around with all the vacuum lines till you see it drop, fix leak, or just replace them all. (tip, use the old lines to pull in the new ones and check the plastic brake booster fittings too)
The other thing it could be, which happened to me in another car was the spring on the middle pin of my distributor cap was sticky, and once in a while it would stick up a little robbing most of my spark. It was a new cap too. I had looked at the inside a few times, seen anything bad and closed it up and chased a fueling. Then once i pushed the pin a little for the hell of it and it stuck in........another new cap fixed 3 months of intermittent headaches.
I read somewhere that 75 percent of the time bad running cars are ignition or vacuum related.
 
edit: ^^yes, factory turbo with IC added afterwards.

Replaced Bosch Platinum Plus plugs with NGK Resistor coppers, car still runs like ****. I had a couple backfires after revving a little followed by a little smoke. **when revving, boost pressure barely rises, then falls while still revving** so that along with the backfires tells me i'm not getting full combustion which therefore doesn't create exhaust pressure to make boost. i'll be replacing spark plug wires, cap, and rotor Friday as well as testing my coil. If that doesn't fix the problem, then I'm moving from spark to fuel.

:pee:K-jet
 
Compression test? I had the same symptoms with my 940, except mine turned out to be a bad headgasket between 1 and 2. I hope yours isn't the same problem. Could it
 
I just listened to the video. When my timing was off by quite a number of degrees my car had similar symptoms and it sounded similar. I second the timing belt jumping a tooth or two. Check how TDC lines up on the crank and cam.
 
I just listened to the video. When my timing was off by quite a number of degrees my car had similar symptoms and it sounded similar. I second the timing belt jumping a tooth or two. Check how TDC lines up on the crank and cam.

TDC? timing cover is off and belt looks fine. I'm not seeing the mark on the belt/gear the manual mentions to check timing. The belt is tight, not loose.

Eliminated spark from possible issues. Coil is good and I'm getting blue spark out of each plug. Started it, ran ****ty as usual. Turned it off, pulled timing cover and 2 alternator belts. Pulled fuel injectors to check spray pattern and I'm getting NO FUEL out of 3 injectors and only a little squirt out of the other one. This doesn't make sense since the car was running a minute ago. WTF

edit:: PCV hose was disconnected from block but I reconnected it. NO other vacuum or IC hose leaks, all hoses good.
 
What were you doing to check spray pattern? Cranking the car? Obviously it won't run, even crappy, on only one injector. What you're describing sounds like one injector is actually leaking.

PVC hose disconnected at block (you mean to the oil separator box?) is a HUGE vacuum leak, so that helps.
 
yeah i pulled one injector at a time and checked the spray pattern by cranking the car. only one gave a little spurt. PCV hose when connected didn't make a difference when the car was started. It still wants to die at idle, I have to hold the throttle wheel open and even then the motor shakes and the exhaust makes a weird fa-fa-fa-fa-fa-fa-fa noise.
 
2 teeth on the trigger wheel inside my distributor were bent upwards, so I guess I have shaft play/wobble in the distributor. I'll replace it and see if that fixes it
IMG_2970.jpg


IMG_2969.jpg
 
But you said you had good spark at all plugs...so obviously that wasn't affecting spark, but the hall sensor signal?

well i had spark, but it was weak blue spark. All I know now is that was definitely robbing some spark which would obviously cause it to run like crap. I'm sourcing a replacement distributor now. Did an '82 k-jet 240 have a hall sensor? sorry, I'm not on the up and up with the electrical system yet, but I'm getting there since this is my first car.
 
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