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help...cleaned up air idle control now car wont start

tried again, car wont fire, i look everywhere if something disconnected, didnt expect this to happen on this maintenance ..ill keep trying
 
if that gunk inside the iac connector was electrical grease, and i removed it, could a bad connection make the car not fire?
 
car doesnt fire, could there be carb cleaner in the plugs, or needs electric grease, im starting to think it was dirt but grease
 
it used to idle at around 1400 coming back from highway, now its at 17-18... probably faulty ioc at this point...
 
JTF said:
if that gunk inside the iac connector was electrical grease, and i removed it, could a bad connection make the car not fire?
Click to expand...
The name "Dielectric grease" is a little deceptive. It's actually an insulator and doesn't conduct electricity.

A clean, dry connection with no grease will function just fine. However, applying a dab of dielectric grease to a cleaned connection helps the connection quality in two ways:

1. It lubricates the pins or contacts, allowing them to slide against each other and connect more easily. While the grease is an insulator, as long as the connector isn't completely packed with grease, the pressure of a normal connector design will displace it and allow good metal-to-metal connection between the contacts.

2. The layer of grease remaining on the outside of the pins/contacts/etc protects them from water, air and/or dirt. Contamination or debris in the connector can cause corrosion or short circuits, so this is a huge plus.

Tl;dr - if you cleaned out the grease, it shouldn't cause any problems. But you might want to add a little fresh grease afterwards.

JTF said:
it used to idle at around 1400 coming back from highway, now its at 17-18... probably faulty ioc at this point...
Click to expand...

Yes, I think IAC stuck open would tend to cause high idle, possibly lean operation too.

If you haven't yet, I would test the IAC like GrungeWagon suggested using 12V-14V (from car battery, etc) to the IAC pins to see whether it's operating as expected. The battery charger you asked about earlier in the thread should be fine since it should put out about 14V - less if it has a slow charge mode. Just don't apply power for more than a second or two at a time to avoid overheating the coils in there.
 
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totally makes sense filling up space preventing debris in there, i checked with a charge but didnt notice any movement in the iac unfortunately...
lean operation?
thanks for the input, amazing
 
thanks again to everyone for your help cant thanks yall enough, its not the first and wont be the last, hopefully not too often about issues more fun upgrades, turbo stuff and horsepower but gotta start somewhere haha 🤣🤣
 
im surprised, it wont start again, scratching my head how anything couldve been moved while doing that AiC to have the car not fire up🤷 damn.
 
JTF said:
totally makes sense filling up space preventing debris in there, i checked with a charge but didnt notice any movement in the iac unfortunately...
Click to expand...

if you applied 12V and ground as directed and didn't see anything - I'd say it's probably dead

JTF said:
lean operation?
Click to expand...

Too much air for the fuel. Now that I think about it though, it's all after the MAF sensor, so the air/fuel ratio should still be OK.
 
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Khrrck said:
if you applied 12V and ground as directed and didn't see anything - I'd say it's probably dead



Too much air for the fuel. Now that I think about it though, it's all after the MAF sensor, so the air/fuel ratio should still be OK.
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sweet noted!
did as many steps i could myself, thats the point with those volvos love/hate it when its time to buy new etc. Now one thing i noticed today for the first time through all this is a bolt missing from the exhaust manifold! wonder that can cause a pressure leak at high temperatures...
 
Excellent for having it fire up. Happy to help and thank you for being cool and genuinely appreciative.

Brickboard faq link below if you don't know about it.
*note: the faq is for 7/9 series but helpful for things like lh and other overlapping systems on 240s *


But I would very much consider really going through the electrical connectors on the drivers side of engine and making sure they are all secure and not corroded, vacuum system too. Starting, then no start after working in engine bay could mean an intermittent electrical problem. I'm guessing you have lh 2.2 or 2.1, what year is your car?

[Double checked and yes the tps and iac connections can be installed on wrong part. with the iac plug having 3 pins and the tps having 2 pins (before lh2.4)]

A few bucks and you can install the stud and nut for the exhaust manifold. Suggest using geniune or high quality. Either way you'll need it so you might luck out and catch it before the exhaust gas blows through the gasket.
 
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GrungeWagon said:
Excellent for having it fire up. Happy to help and thank you for being cool and genuinely appreciative.

Brickboard faq link below if you don't know about it.
*note: the faq is for 7/9 series but helpful for things like lh and other overlapping systems on 240s *


But I would very much consider really going through the electrical connectors on the drivers side of engine and making sure they are all secure and not corroded, vacuum system too. Starting, then no start after working in engine bay could mean an intermittent electrical problem. I'm guessing you have lh 2.2 or 2.1, what year is your car?

[Double checked and yes the tps and iac connections can be installed on wrong part. with the iac plug having 3 pins and the tps having 2 pins (before lh2.4)]

A few bucks and you can install the stud and nut for the exhaust manifold. Suggest using geniune or high quality. Either way you'll need it so you might luck out and catch it before the exhaust gas blows through the gasket.
Click to expand...
Man all a bunch of big brothers in here helping out with our volvos, really precious when issues appear!
i will go through it, i know theres a lot of ressources and the same old problems or upgrades are asked over and over, lots of documented builds, but sometimes really technical (which is great) but its def a language to learn haha. The issue now is i probably drowned the engine, got the bit today to check the spark plugs, first time drowning an engine yay! learning!
i feel more and more confident working in the engine bay, took a while 🙏
Its a 1984 242glt, b21ft kjet!
Definetly want to get the wiring taken car of and electrical contacts. Bit by bit, but luckily then engine has had a good amount of love from previous owner all pipings ipd, blow off, upgraded electric fans. Tryna share more pictures but files too big, gonna figure that out.
 
Are you still having problems? Seeing your posts and your note about year and model, the first thing I'd ask is how does your engine wiring harness look? These are notorious for having wiring harness degradation problems. The wiring insulation just degrades(cracks) and falls apart, literally just falls off of the wires. You end up having bare wires touching other bare wires. Good luck!
 
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tbrcktch said:
Are you still having problems? Seeing your posts and your note about year and model, the first thing I'd ask is how does your engine wiring harness look? These are notorious for having wiring harness degradation problems. The wiring insulation just degrades(cracks) and falls apart, literally just falls off of the wires. You end up having bare wires touching other bare wires. Good luck!
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Yes getting there i appreciated you confirming the shitty state of wires, my gosh, many were changed but a bunch more are coming, like wooden wires haha
Dealing with a drowned engine now just gonna clean up sparks and should be good to go.
But YEA! Gonna be addressing all the electrical potential issues
 
JTF said:
Yes getting there i appreciated you confirming the shitty state of wires, my gosh, many were changed but a bunch more are coming, like wooden wires haha
Dealing with a drowned engine now just gonna clean up sparks and should be good to go.
But YEA! Gonna be addressing all the electrical potential issues
Click to expand...
If you have deteriorating insulation on your wiring harness, the only known fix for all the issues is a complete replacement harness. Dave Barton sells newly manufactured ones.

Dave's Volvo Page - Volvo Engine Wire Harnesses

www.prancingmoose.com www.prancingmoose.com
 
I agree with Khrrck, you may have some other issues going on, but if your harness looks like I think it looks, you're not going to get where you want, without a new harness. You just can't ever get to the end of the bad wires to do a repair, especially as old as these cars are now. There was a range of years back in early 80's, going through late in 80's (don't remember exactly the date range), where all the harnesses fell apart. Volvo had a recall (#37) on those vehicles affected (which , by the way, included all the 240 turbos/ they were particularly negatively affected. I think mostly because of the extra heat generated in the engine compartment from the turbo. I'm pretty sure that I got the last warranty recall on my 81/242T, back in 1994. It took Delores, our warranty administrator, months of fighting to get them to cover it. Got lucky!, lucky that I had Delores!
 
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