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wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
I took the head off to check and see if the head gasket was on correctly. I have attached photos of the block and the underside of the head. When I spin the intermediate shaft the shaft at the oil pump also spins so I'm thinking that it might not be aligned correctly as no oil flows to the block threw any passages.

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Thoughts
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
When the engine was running last, did the oil pressure light in the dashboard go out? And does it turn on now before you crank the engine?

Getting oil out of the filter hole without filter, but not seeing oil puddle in the cam valleys with the filter on, might be due to a bad oil pump transfer pipe seal. (Note: you really need a power tool to spin the aux shaft fast enough to build pressure and pump oil to the cam, cranking it by hand won't work.)
 
Last edited:

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
The oil pressure light would go out on the dashboard. I was spinning the aux shaft with my impact quick enough to spit out oil. I put brand new seals on the oil pump transfer pipe. Probably need to check the oil pump next huh.
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
You could try putting your thumb over the oil filter hole and see if it builds pressure when spinning. From the filter, the oil passage runs up the side of the block and then (IIRC) joins one of the head bolt holes through the teardrop shaped relief.

If you do need to pull the engine (ugh), dry fit the oil pump transfer tube without the seals and use a sharpie to mark how far in it can go. I think that it's possible to be fooled and have the tube only partially seated, which allows the seals to pop out sooner or later.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
I think I may have clogged the threads by using anti-seize on the threads instead of oil. Could that be part of the issue? I will still drop the pan and take a look at the oil pump.
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
I haven't looked carefully, but I'd guess that the oil flow enters the bolt hole above the block threads (via the teardrop) and splits off into head passages before being blocked by the head washer and nut. I can't imagine that there would be any flow through the threaded region, meaning anti-seize wouldn't make any difference.

Did you had the engine out for the +T? If so, what did you do while it was out?

If there's low or no oil pressure, I'd guess a pump tube seal popped out. If there's good pressure, I'd guess that something was plugging the oil feed to the #2 cam journal in the replacement junkyard head. Either way, it looks like the #2 may have seized, causing the teeth on the timing belt to be sheared off, causing the no start.
 

ZVOLV

<Master Tech>
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Location
California
I'd repeat your oil flow test with your oil filter "relocation" setup and see if oil is coming out the top of the block
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
The engine was not removed for the +T. Since the head is off I'm gonna blow out the passages and see if anything comes out. Since the car is still NOP I can really dig into it and make it right from the beginning.
 

ZVOLV

<Master Tech>
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Location
California
When I spin the intermediate shaft the shaft at the oil pump also spins so I'm thinking that it might not be aligned correctly as no oil flows to the block threw any passages.

Thoughts

So with the head off, NOTHING comes out of the block when you spin the aux gear? That isn't right.

I think the oil comes out from that "teardrop" in the block as the pressurized oil feed. Behind the second headbolt on the exhaust side, but I don't see the corresponding port on the cylinder head. I gotta go look at my spare head to figure it out...
 

ZVOLV

<Master Tech>
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Location
California
What is your oil filter "relocation" setup? I can't see in the pics.

I believe the oil passage just goes straight up from the oil filter thru ONE passage to the head. You could also pull the oil pressure switch and see if oil comes out there. Or has that also been modfied?

I am confused. Your oil pump is working if oil sprayed on your fender with the oil filter off. You just gotta figure out what is preventing it from coming out the top the block.
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
That oil filter relocation kit might be giving problems if it has a stuck anti-drainback valve, or is plumbed backwards (in-in out-out vs in-out in-out). If it still fits, I'd try installing the filter in the original location and give it a spin.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
I will check the lines to see if I may have put them on backwards, before I drain the pan. If they are on backwards I will correct the lines and refill. Can I put oil down the dipstick hole since the head is off or which hole in the block can I refill the oil with?
 

ZVOLV

<Master Tech>
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Location
California
You can dump oil in your removed head and see where is comes out the bottom. I see several return holes in the block where you could add more oil to repeat your tests.

I would also be concerned about rod and main crankshaft bearing damage if you have been running the engine with no oil pressure.
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
I think the 3 outermost holes between the cylinders on the intake side all drain to the sump, but I'm not certain. If you haven't already dumped all 4 qts of oil on the ground, I'd just spin the aux shaft with whatever oil is left.

Here's some pics of a B21FT block, which should be similar to a B230:



I haven't seen any diagrams showing the oil paths, so I'm guessing a bit here but it looks like:
- the pump transfer tube goes up to the main filter-side oil galley between cyls 3&4
- the main galley goes to the block/rod bearings [???] and
- to the oil filter outer hole
- the oil filter return (center pipe) goes up the block to the head (teardrop relief) and
- to the pressure gauge
- the block-to-head passage goes to the cam bearings and
- drips down on the intake side to the sump

If this is correct and the oil filter relocation kit was somehow blocking oil flow, I'd expect good pressure to the block/rod bearings, but bad pressure at the gauge and at the cam bearings.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
I remember the engine having oil pressure before and the oil pressure light never came on. I still need to remove the oil pan and check to see if the oil pump seals are good and that it is engaging in the aux shaft. Also check the relocation lines to make sure I didn't swap them.
 

ZVOLV

<Master Tech>
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Location
California
I wouldn't remove the pan at this point.

However, I would make sure your oil pressure warning bulb is installed and working. Turn the key on and the light should be on. Ground out the wire to the sensor and the bulb should turn off. 240's are known for failed wiring for the oil pressure sensor and the alternator. The wiring rots where it goes under the front of the engine.

As mentioned, I would repeat the test with the oil pressure sensor removed. Quick and easy test.

I think the oil passage goes straight up from the oil filter to the head. I also see an oil passage for the block going horizonally along the block from the filter. I see another oil passage which contains the turbo oil feed and the oil pressure switch.
 
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