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wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
Yea, I've found them just need to wait till I get paid. Since this is a project car and not my daily I have funds set aside each check for parts and such. Last check was gone with fluids and other replacement parts. Just need to wait till the next round and grab the gasket.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
Small update, I measured the valve clearance and needed to order a couple shims that I didn't have. When I get back from vacation I will have everything ready to finalize the build and check to see if it starts.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
Here is the latest. Everything is back together. I have replaced the needed shims. The motor is timed correctly and all the fluids have been filled. The engine attempted to crank but didn't fire up. I suspected the fuel injectors were clogged and replaced them with the factory ones. Now when I crank the engine over I can hear the fuel pumps and then the click of the fuel relay. When I move the key to get the engine to turn over it just clicks like the battery is dead. I have checked and the battery is at 12.9 volts. It sounds like there is a relay clicking inside the dash. I found the relay that was just clicking when I would turn the key. It was located behind the glove box towards the top of the dash. https://postimg.cc/NL1RxNQK The relay looks brand new, could it be faulty?
 
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dl242gt

Old and boxy but good.
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Location
S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
That's just the overdrive relay clicking on because you turned on the key.
No crank can be the ignition switch or wiring issues to the starter. You can use a jumper lead in the starter test lead to see if the starter works. The test lead is the single unused connection at the back by the firewall near
directly above the starter.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
I checked the faulty connector and went through the no start guide on the first page. The car STARTS and idles. it will idle when the MAF is disconnected but it i plug it back in the car will immediately die. Going to connect the down pipe so i can get some of the fumes going towards the outside.
 
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dl242gt

Old and boxy but good.
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Location
S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
If the car runs without the mass air sensor but when it's in circuit the car won't run. Then you need to replace that faulty mass air sensor. Even if it didn't set a code.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
I will look into getting another one. Because I did a +t will the N/A MAF work or would I need a completely different one? What is a good number for the A/F gauge to read? mine currently fluctuates between 10.2 and 10.5.
 

dl242gt

Old and boxy but good.
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Location
S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
You won't have a good air fuel ratio while the mass air sensor is bad. Running with the mass air sensor off the engine means the computer defaults to 'limp home' mode. So it's probably rich so it stays running.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
Cleaning the MAF didn't change anything. I will be on the lookout for either a new one or a used one that works. The next issue on the agenda is that when I move the transmission into reverse on the AW70 the car doesn't want to move. It will move roll forward in Drive, 2nd, and 1st. Could the reverse gear be broken inside the transmission? Should I be on the lookout for a replacement like an AW71? I don't have the funds for a full manual swap as that is the next big change to the car. Just need it driveable right now.
 

culberro

Ronald Culberbone III
Joined
Feb 10, 2010
Location
Redmond, OR
I checked the faulty connector and went through the no start guide on the first page. The car STARTS and idles. it will idle when the MAF is disconnected but it i plug it back in the car will immediately die. Going to connect the down pipe so i can get some of the fumes going towards the outside.

Uhhhh, do you have a oxygen sensor hooked up?
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
Yep, all the sensors are connected. Everything is back together. If I take a look inside the MAF there are cracks where the wire is connected. I will try and take a closeup photo.
 

wht_245wagoon

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Location
Escondido, CA
The newest update is the car idles and DRIVES!! it also doesn't want to rattle itself apart. I drove around the block and noticed a couple of things.

1. It needs an alignment bad, I can probably get it close in the garage. When I turn the steering wheel from lock to lock the tires rub on the frame rails. I have installed IPD Sport Springs and Bilstein HD shocks along with the BNE QRSC. The current wheels I have are Hydras. Would the alignment solve the rubbing or should I invest in some spacers?

2. When you put your foot on the gas in either Drive or Reverse you need to give it a good amount of pedal before it wants to move. It feels like the transmission is trying really hard to get the car to move under its own power. any thoughts? Do I need a new transmission?

Thank you everyone for your ideas and knowledge.
 
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