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Can you check for oil pressure with the head off or does it need to go back on? I have an oil pressure gauge that I put the stock hole with an adapter but can switch it back to the stock sensor.
 
Can you check for oil pressure with the head off or does it need to go back on? I have an oil pressure gauge that I put the stock hole with an adapter but can switch it back to the stock sensor.

Oil pressure has to do with resistance. IOW, no, you can't check for oil pressure with the head off. Not without blocking off the passages that supply the camshaft and followers with oil.
 
Update. Thank you for the suggestion on checking the hoses. I took a look at the relocation hoses and they were set to in-in and out-out so the oil would go into the filter but not back out again. With the lines set up as OUT of block and In into relocation and OUT of relocation and IN into the block when spinning the AUX shaft the oil comes out of the block at the teardrop on the front left or stud #8. Going to put the head back on and see if the oil comes out of the cam journals next.

Head is back on and torqued down to spec. Oil comes up and into the cam journals. Going to begin to put it back together. Anything I should look out for?
 
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You got it! Glad we could help.

I would double check your oil pressure switch wiring as I mentioned. I blew an engine having mine disconnected and running low on oil. The switch simply closes the circuit to ground when the oil pressure is below (7-10?) psi. The wiring commonly shorts to ground and sometimes a previous owner takes the bulb out of the cluster. I would confirm that the lamp is operating normally.

I would put a new headgasket, new bolts, and new hushers. Get a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer to setup the valve lash.
 
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Great, glad the oil is flowing again.

After looking at more pictures, I now think that the crank/rod bearings are lubricated from the oil galley after the filter (which makes better sense). Unfortunately, this means that you were probably running with low pressure to all the bearings when the cam seized. Before putting the timing belt back on, I'd pull the plugs and rotate the crank by hand to see if it still turns smoothly. If so, button it back up, cross your fingers, and be glad it's a redblock.
 
I followed the book instructions when putting the head back on and installed the crank. I needed to rotate it to get the #1 to TDC and it was smooth. When it ran before my oil guage worked great. I will switch it back and put the stock sender back into the block so the dash light is done. I am going to reuse the head gasket and bolts as they have maybe 40 minutes on them ans look brand new. The hushers are also new when I swapped the head over. I have a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer to check valve lash. I measured the shim thickness already and will check and see if it needs to be adjusted. Will keep you guys posted on the changes.
 
Take a look at your remote cooler setup - there may be a plug in it which could be removed to add a pressure gauge or switch on the return side. You'll need to check the thread size.
 
If you use the 5 bar VDO gauge (whether Volvo branded or not) you can get a sender with both a warning light output (on/off) and gauge output.
 
You got it! Glad we could help.

I would double check your oil pressure switch wiring as I mentioned. I blew an engine having mine disconnected and running low on oil. The switch simply closes the circuit to ground when the oil pressure is below (7-10?) psi. The wiring commonly shorts to ground and sometimes a previous owner takes the bulb out of the cluster. I would confirm that the lamp is operating normally.

I would put a new headgasket, new bolts, and new hushers. Get a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer to setup the valve lash.

Definitely a new gasket but everything else can be reused.
 
Take a look at your remote cooler setup - there may be a plug in it which could be removed to add a pressure gauge or switch on the return side. You'll need to check the thread size.

Most aftermarket setups do have plugs. Most commonly 1/8 npt. Depends if its like a derale setup or something similar, those might not have plugs.
 
I originally had the gauge sender plug into the remote setup and it worked. I wanted to set it up on in the stock location so I moved it. I am going to put it back. So that I have both the dummy light and the gauge.

How long should the head gasket last? I just changed it when I swapped the head over and maybe had the engine running for 30 minutes total while checking things over.
 
bolts torqued down and never got hot you'd probably be ok re-using, I have done this and it's held for 4-5 years now, but not a turbo
bolts torqued down and engine hot forget it, you need a new one
 
Yea the engine never got hot and bolts didn't get the retorque per book. For the most part the engine idled as I was trying to see why my tach doesn't function.
 
I originally had the gauge sender plug into the remote setup and it worked. I wanted to set it up on in the stock location so I moved it. I am going to put it back. So that I have both the dummy light and the gauge.

How long should the head gasket last? I just changed it when I swapped the head over and maybe had the engine running for 30 minutes total while checking things over.

A head gasket is $17. What is your time to replace one worth? IOW, I would put in a new gasket. Especially since the B230 heads are seldom straight unless they have just been surfaced.
 
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