How Long Will my Battery Last?

[smokeyfan1000]

Just replaced a factory 99 tacoma battery today. Still was pushing 350CCA out of 710. I tested the battery and had to sell the battery, he didn't come in asking for it.

If it only had 335 CCA amps out of a posted 710 CCA, it was a bad battery. And had been one for some time.

So the usable/safe life of that battery *at it's posted/required CCA rating* is much less than the *13 years* life you're claiming. So it *did not really last* 13 years. It had been subpar for quite some time

Few if any batteries hold their full CCA rating for more than 5-6 years, some make it to 7. After it does not have it's required CCA it is considerd to be failed IMO.

Some owners, myself included, use a battery with much more CCA than is needed for the engine.

Mine is rated at 700 CCA @ 0F*. And 875 CA warm. with a reserve of 120A. For a 140 ici engine it's a big battery.....

 

[badvlvo]

http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en/technology/agm-batteries/

They may have gone back to virgin lead after the recycled **** they used, but there are still far better AGM options.

 

[apachechef]

You're trippin' IMO. Never saw *any car battery* last more than 6 to 7 years MAX, though I 've never owned an Interstate battery.

Most of the less expensive batteries only last me 4-6 years. And this in NC USA.

Unless you consider a battery you have to jump start "good"

Example - 2001 Lincoln LS. Had OEM battery, replaced with another OEM battery. Never any alternator poblems. Stock radio/cassette player. Power everything accessories.

2012
-2001
_____
11 years

11 diviided by 2 = 5.5 years average of life for each battery

The Advance Auto battery in my 240 as of now is 4 years old. I suspect it'll die this winter or 1st of srring. We'll see.......

Don't confuse OEM with what comes in the car from a factory.
Original equipment manufcturer doesn't ensure that it is the same exact battery, just the same maker. Despite being a "car brand" battery, purchased and installed at an authorized dealer, the same quality is unlikely.
in other words, "assembly line" batteries are not the same as dealer replaced "OEM" batteries.

and seriously, your math is questionable. If I'm married to one woman for 9.9999 years, divorce and marry a hooker in Vegas, the next day I could say "my marriages have lasted 5y on average. Technically true, but a worthless, deceptive fact.

Also, you say you have never owned an interstate battery, and you say cheap batteries last you 4-6 years, so the range of all batteries you know intimately is only 6-7 years, pushing the range up a year. Somewhere in your numbers lies hidden that you have experience with cheap batteries, and perhaps your opinion is less than unbiased.

 

[Lando]

Don't confuse OEM with what comes in the car from a factory.
Original equipment manufcturer doesn't ensure that it is the same exact battery, just the same maker. Despite being a "car brand" battery, purchased and installed at an authorized dealer, the same quality is unlikely.
in other words, "assembly line" batteries are not the same as dealer replaced "OEM" batteries.

True True.

Toyota factory batteries are made by panasonic. The replacements are made by interstate. Both have toyota on em though.

 

[apachechef]

If it only had 335 CCA amps out of a posted 710 CCA, it was a bad battery. And had been one for some time.

So the usable/safe life of that battery *at it's posted/required CCA rating* is much less than the *13 years* life you're claiming. So it *did not really last* 13 years. It had been subpar for quite some time

Few if any batteries hold their full CCA rating for more than 5-6 years, some make it to 7. After it does not have it's required CCA it is considerd to be failed IMO.

Some owners, myself included, use a battery with much more CCA than is needed for the engine.

Mine is rated at 700 CCA @ 0F*. And 875 CCAwarm. with a reserve of 120A. For a 140 ici engine it's a big battery.....

Uh, I think "useful life" life would be the time until it strands you or needs a jump in normal usage.
to base "useful" on numbers instead of real life performance is not good.
"useful life" is based on the individual circumstances, and not only measurements.

 

[Lando]

If it only had 335 CCA amps out of a posted 710 CCA, it was a bad battery. And had been one for some time.

So the usable/safe life of that battery *at it's posted/required CCA rating* is much less than the *13 years* life you're claiming. So it *did not really last* 13 years. It had been subpar for quite some time

Few if any batteries hold their full CCA rating for more than 5-6 years, some make it to 7. After it does not have it's required CCA it is considerd to be failed IMO.

Some owners, myself included, use a battery with much more CCA than is needed for the engine.

Mine is rated at 700 CCA @ 0F*. And 875 CCAwarm. with a reserve of 120A. For a 140 ici engine it's a big battery.....

What difference does it make to a customer that it is lower on CCA's as long as it starts up everytime.

It wasn't even cranking slow. IME any battery with more than 100CCA will start a car.


Also, CCA stands for cold cranking amps, how can you have 875 cold cranking amps warm?

 

[apachechef]

Also, CCA stands for cold cranking amps, how can you have 875 cold cranking amps warm?

because RACECAR.

 

[CEHepp]

I also have the original battery in my 04 S60. Keep your water topped up and do a test every year to be safe. Mine is still testing at 575CCA (rated at 600CCA). I know this much, I will not be buying a Volvo battery when this one goes. It will be an Interstate heavy duty battery. I would rather pay 220 dollars once every ten years instead of 130 dollars every three years.

 

[smokeyfan1000]

Uh, I think "useful life" life would be the time until it strands you or needs a jump in normal usage.
to base "useful" on numbers instead of real life performance is not good.
"useful life" is based on the individual circumstances, and not only measurements.

If you consider being stranded by a dead battery as a *useful* battery...go for it.

But According to the 3 batteries classes I attended when the CCA rated is no longer read by testing the battery,IE tests determines dead cell/s , fails load test, and fails hydrometer reading, it's considered a failed battery. End of story.

Of course,if one chooses to use a less than adequate battery until it leaves them on the side of the road, that' their business.

Personally I don't like walking 1-15 miles in 20-30F* weather..........

But according to you, once the car is running, the battery can be removed.....LOL

 

[impulse922]

I also have the original battery in my 04 S60. Keep your water topped up and do a test every year to be safe. Mine is still testing at 575CCA (rated at 600CCA). I know this much, I will not be buying a Volvo battery when this one goes. It will be an Interstate heavy duty battery. I would rather pay 220 dollars once every ten years instead of 130 dollars every three years.

~5 years strong on a volvo battery here. replaced in 07-08 and no problems yet. I will check the fluid levels tomorrow, havent done it yet but sounds like a good idea.

 

[smokeyfan1000]

What difference does it make to a customer that it is lower on CCA's as long as it starts up everytime.

It wasn't even cranking slow. IME any battery with more than 100CCA will start a car.


Also, CCA stands for cold cranking amps, how can you have 875 cold cranking amps warm?

Sorry I was multi tasking at the time I was typing. I'll edit it.

 

[smokeyfan1000]

Don't confuse OEM with what comes in the car from a factory.
Original equipment manufcturer doesn't ensure that it is the same exact battery, just the same maker. Despite being a "car brand" battery, purchased and installed at an authorized dealer, the same quality is unlikely.
in other words, "assembly line" batteries are not the same as dealer replaced "OEM" batteries.

and seriously, your math is questionable. If I'm married to one woman for 9.9999 years, divorce and marry a hooker in Vegas, the next day I could say "my marriages have lasted 5y on average. Technically true, but a worthless, deceptive fact.

Also, you say you have never owned an interstate battery, and you say cheap batteries last you 4-6 years, so the range of all batteries you know intimately is only 6-7 years, pushing the range up a year. Somewhere in your numbers lies hidden that you have experience with cheap batteries, and perhaps your opinion is less than unbiased.

I've bought a lot of batteries. None were Interstate, which I find priced to high IMO

FWIW, Here in my area, I see very few people buying the high quality/high priced batteries.

Personally I buy the Advance Auto Titanium Batteries. Middle of the road quality I guess.
I might/would/probably buy an Interstate battery if my closet Interstate dealer accepted credit cards, but sadly, he does not.

Advance Auto does however............but FWIW, *no battery lasts forever*

 

[apachechef]

If you consider being stranded by a dead battery as a *useful* battery...go for it.

But According to the 3 batteries classes I attended when the CCA rated is no longer read by testing the battery,IE tests determines dead cell/s , fails load test, and fails hydrometer reading, it's considered a failed battery. End of story.

Of course,if one chooses to use a less than adequate battery until it leaves them on the side of the road, that' their business.

Personally I don't like walking 1-15 miles in 20-30F* weather..........

But according to you, once the car is running, the battery can be removed.....LOL

I am trying hard to not make fun of you.
You fail to grasp this concept.
And according to your last line, do you really think you have a better grasp on electricity than all the other times you have spouted misinformation?

SF1k, stop while you are ahead, are you really arguing definitions? how can you take three classes on batteries and still be this ignorant?

The point is not a textbook definition, my post was clear about this. you are not reading this clearly.
"until" is an important word.
I'm not talking about what is smart to do, or what is most cost effective, or what is good practice, understand?

Seriously dude, you need to know more about electricity than you do currently"heehee" to say anything meaningful.

go read trickmicks link before you embarass yourself with your lack of understanding of this.

 

[apachechef]

I've bought a lot of batteries. None were Interstate, which I find priced to high IMO

FWIW, Here in my area, I see very few people buying the high quality/high priced batteries.

Personally I buy the Advance Auto Titanium Batteries. Middle of the road quality I guess.
I might/would/probably buy an Interstate battery if my closet Interstate dealer accepted credit cards, but sadly, he does not.

Advance Auto does however............but FWIW, *no battery lasts forever*

I would say this just means you live around a lot of poor people.

if you think interstate batteries are too expensive, that could be linked to you having batteries die when they do.

And thanks for clearing up the everlasting battery myth, so many people here thought that was the case.

 

[TrickMick]

- SNIP -
Also, CCA stands for cold cranking amps, how can you have 875 cold cranking amps warm?

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_cca_cold_cranking_amp/

CCA is *usually* tested via carbon pile or "AC current injection"....you can measure the
Cold Cranking Amps at ANY TEMPERATURE - you just have to "do the maths" (or
for us technoweenies, apply an *ANALYZER* that does "predictive calculations" based
upon a "matrix of data"....)

as I stated in another post, the industry is moving toward COMPUTER CHARGE
CONTROL (based on LOAD / TEMP / and output - capacity) so that alternators
more closely follow the DEMAND CURVE(s)....it is even *bad Ju Ju* to test some
these systems *UNDER LOAD* as the "computer" will see FALSE DATA and try to
overcome the "current capacity LOSS" you create by "loading the battery / charging
system *artificially*".....

being the cheap bastard that I am, I'll continue using my carbon pile and other stuff
until such time as the "new tech whiz-bang gizmos" come down in price so that us
"ordinary types" can afford them.. (it's bad enough that we have to support the
"scan tool industry" w/a yearly "whack at the wallet" to keep current....now we have
several "sub systems" to worry about)...aaarrggghhhhh

http://www.buchmann.ca/article26-page1.asp

 

[audeo03]

Im surprised it lasted more than 2 years if its the original battery. All the starting, stopping, and waiting from the time the car was built until it was finally sold seemed to play hell on the original Volvo batteries.

While I have seen last 5, 6 and 7 years its been rare and IMHO I would replace it while the weather is nice, because nothing sucks more than trying to do it in a parking lot at work at 6pm or worse at 10pm when the Wif has the car at the mall and its dead.

^^^ YES. My wife's '09 v50 is beginning to not start after sitting for more than a few days...

 

[CEHepp]

^^^ YES. My wife's '09 v50 is beginning to not start after sitting for more than a few days...

On those cars, when the instrument cluster goes black when starting, your battery is bad. Replace it. It will start doing that long before the battery leaves you stranded.

 

[professor245]

This and don't look back

had it on 240 also (for years ) and cold cold winters never an issue

 

[John2x240]

Hey Prof. Someone screwed up and put your engine in sideways!

 

[Dan]

I decide by how much of a pain it is when it goes dead, I have multiple cars , so if it won't start, I just get another car, if I had only one car, I'd replace it sooner