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How to install Brown Tops on LH 2.2!

so how much boost could you run with just browntops, kandn filter and stock exhaust? Also for the 3 reistors you spliced into the amm wiring, do you leave those in there forever?
 
k, and the 3 resistors in the amm harness? permanant? also how much of a decrease could i expect in my mpg with browntops assuming i drove the same(punching it on corners!)? thankss for the right up btw
 
Boosted2003 said:
LOL

Ive never seen a volvo motor that dirty. Even my whored out 940 with 210k on it motor didnt look like that.
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i wonder about all this work.... mine installed with no issues sans resistors. altho i dont have a AF gauge, im inclinded to believe that im not running rich at idle or low RPM, because with the tcam i had no issues obliterating my tires from a dead stop. also i took a multimeter to my o2 sensor a week ago, and the fluctuations at idle were correct, and the voltage was correct as well.... perhaps its because im running Lucas browntop replacements? (black body, with blue stripe around the center)
 
I don't think the fact that they're Bosch or Lucas would have anything to do with that...

Since replacing the leaking injector, I've been driving around and noticed that when I get off the gas after romping it, the injectors cut out, then resume, then cut out, then resume again...sometimes just once, sometimes quite a few times. I've been told it could be a bad throttle swithc, though I may take the resistors out and see how it runs anyway...

other than that, it's great...I can run 17psi all day with no ping, doesn't ping even when it spikes to 18psi...and the boost hits stronger even when I don't go all the way up.
 
I found this writeup very helpfull, but I have one problem... My AMM dosn't have an adjustment screw on it... I know it was changed before i bought this engine, so I wonder if it could be from a jetronic 2,4 system? It looks just as the one in this write up, but without the hole for the screw...

Is there any other way of adjusting the signal from the AMM?
Is the screw just going to a pot meter? if thats the case, is it a posibility that I can insert one on the wires going out from the AMM?
 
Arnt, prehaps you have LH2.4? either that or maybe the wrong AMM...if you're in europe, you probably have motronic which is a totally different system and to my knowledge does not have any adjustment on the amm

pulled the resistors and went for a run tonight...car ran like complete and total ass, so i promptly put them back in.
 
fengler said:
k, and the 3 resistors in the amm harness? permanant? also how much of a decrease could i expect in my mpg with browntops assuming i drove the same(punching it on corners!)? thankss for the right up btw
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i found my mpg went UP 2-3mpg w/ these injectors on my LH 2.4 setup be it that my stockers were that bad( i passed smog w/ them so)

tho i got 17mpg city and 26+ highway driving like a total ass so
 
760T man said:
Since replacing the leaking injector, I've been driving around and noticed that when I get off the gas after romping it, the injectors cut out, then resume, then cut out, then resume again...sometimes just once, sometimes quite a few times. I've been told it could be a bad throttle swithc, though I may take the resistors out and see how it runs anyway...
Cullen - I ran my Browntops in LH2.4 without any mods (resisitors) and had the exact same problem. It seemed like the computer was having a hard time keeping up with the swing of the A/F ratio. It was especially bad went I took it out of drive and into neutral or park.
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945TurboTwins said:
Cullen - I ran my Browntops in LH2.4 without any mods (resisitors) and had the exact same problem. It seemed like the computer was having a hard time keeping up with the swing of the A/F ratio. It was especially bad went I took it out of drive and into neutral or park.
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well it's only between 1-1.5k rpm, only when decelerating for me. I've talked to several people who also have browntops, mike, etc, and from what I'm told nobody else is having the same problem as me...what exactly does it do for you when you take it out of gear?

it doesn't really affect drivability, because other than that one little thing, it's running great. Philip said he'd let me try a spare tps, and if that doesn't fix it, I guess I'll just get used to it.
 
I was having problems with off-load idle. The car seemed to do fine in drive, but once I shifted gears into park or neutral, the car seemed to be letting the A/F ratio get too low and then would over compensate with too much fuel. So the A/F would go up and then drop down too low again causing the engine to stumble.


I have an Autometer 20 LED A/F gauge that lets me see the full swing of the A/F ratio (please no comments about narrow band vs wide band) and it was clear that the car was stumbling when the light swung to the lean side. Since I often sit at idle due to work, this was not going to work out for me. I put the 804s back in and everything was fine. And I know the injectors were good because I just paid to have them cleaned and tested.

Another interesting side note, with the Browntops, my car would start instantly. Normally, I engage the starter and it cranks the normal 2-3 times and then the car starts. With the Browntops, I would barely turn on the starter and it would jump to life.
 
I noticed the starting thing too...except mine starts in 2-3 now where it used to start in 5-6 or so...

as for the idle thing...check for vac leaks, make sure you reconnected EVERY hose you disconnected to pull the rail. I skipped one by mistake, and it did the exact thing you were talking about. it smoothed right out when I put it back on. it's possible you missed one hose when you put everything back together w/ the browntops, but didn't miss it when you put the 804s back in...

my idle is a tad on the high side (900-1000) but smooth as glass...its just that pulsing thing at 1-1.5k on decel. thats wrong...and that's more of an annoyance than a drivability problem IMO

I'd say try the browntops one more time and make sure everything is hooked up right...
 
Nah...I'm done with Browntops for now...I sold them to WeezilUSA.


Good suggestion about the vaccum leak. I am pretty sure I had everything hooked up though.
 
Great writeup! This encouraged me to give setting my base idle properly and setting my AMM/MAS another whack BUT NOTHING!


I grouned out the red/white wire to the bracket for the coolant resivior, did not make a damn difference in idle, nothing, car ran at the exact same idle speed. Should I ground it somewhere else, what could be wrong?


Hooked up my test LED that I had made exactly as described by MVP, figured out my mistake buy looking at the unit used in the photos here, I was using it backwards, so I tried it the reverse, still nothing either, no LED and I'm not gonna start turning the AMM/MAS adjustment screw again cause last time, no matter where I turned it, nothing!


I've replaced my ECU, this one works fine, new O2 sensor, new AMM/MAS too, connectors all look good, car runs fine just want to check and set these adjustments! What could be wrong, this is really frustrating me!!
 
740TurboPerformance said:
Great writeup! This encouraged me to give setting my base idle properly and setting my AMM/MAS another whack BUT NOTHING!


I grouned out the red/white wire to the bracket for the coolant resivior, did not make a damn difference in idle, nothing, car ran at the exact same idle speed. Should I ground it somewhere else, what could be wrong?


Hooked up my test LED that I had made exactly as described by MVP, figured out my mistake buy looking at the unit used in the photos here, I was using it backwards, so I tried it the reverse, still nothing either, no LED and I'm not gonna start turning the AMM/MAS adjustment screw again cause last time, no matter where I turned it, nothing!


I've replaced my ECU, this one works fine, new O2 sensor, new AMM/MAS too, connectors all look good, car runs fine just want to check and set these adjustments! What could be wrong, this is really frustrating me!!
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I'm afraid that one's got me stumped...I could probably be of more help if you'd ever sign on to AIM :-P
 
sorry don't sign on much anymore, if any of you think of anything I could try, let me know, I could see the LED probe not working for some reason but grounding out the red/white wire to metal like the coolant tank bracket should have some effect right, it is supposed to drop the idle, it does dittely squat for me, frustrating cause I'd like to start with getting my base idle set properly but I can't. If anyone can think of anything I may be doing wrong let me know . . . . Thanks late
 
Check my site out for the 1990+ 7 sries-9 series

I used a radioshack potentiometer that has a turn knob. When you find what resistance you need, you can then get a resistor/resistors. For my na b230f with the grand national turbo on it and supra turbo fuel pump, supra mk3 turbo injectors(430cc) it likes to be adjusted around 160-180 ohms. Im running 5psi right now. If i can figure out how to retard the igntiion timing then ill run 12 psi. Its plenty fast right now though. With the turbo motor in it(lower compression) , it liked to be around 230-300 ohms with the same setup@15psi. This is for my 1990 740 turbo.
Kris Weldy
for more details check out...

http://home.comcast.net/~volvo4life/Index.html
 
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