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How to install Brown Tops on LH 2.2!

coz it aint a turbo? lol this E engine had 178 -180 stock the bore has taken it to like 230 or something, it need dyno running, but it upsets alot of drivers lol if you got that crap one well theresno wonder, the E is a beast!
 
okay, i made up the test light, and nada, can't get it to blink. i also added the 300 ohm resistance in the wire... so, any suggestions? and yes, i did get the anode/cathode thing right.... does anyone know what output voltage that port should give at "rich"?
 
when you ground the first wire, the red/white one near the AMM, do you need to have the resistors, or will a regular wire going right to ground work? I know that for the green/white wire I will need to use resistors and an LED, to set the mixture.
 
cool, this makes sense. You know what would be really good on TB, if people started making videos of what they were doing instead of articles, I am thinking of making a video about this.
 
So when adjusting your mixture with the test light does the o2 sensor need unplugged first? I've tried adjusting it with the screw and the test light just stays off no matter how much i turn the screw and i know its not running lean its running rich. In the haynes manual it says to adjust the mixture you need to unplug the o2 sensor first. As soon as i tried unplugging it the test light came on.
 
It was a great read and very informative but it would have been amazing if you included how to install brown tops on +t's
 
Do i need resistors to run brown tops on a +T? with 2.4

Not on 2.4. 960 3" AMM (012) is advisable, however.

240T man: The information you gave VolvoSporter is not correct. Brown tops are low impedance injectors. What that means is if the car doesn't already have resistors (resistor pack), then resistors need to be added. In the case of a +T, the car in question has high impedance injectors. Switching to low impedance means you need to add resistance inline, or in other words, add a resistor pack.

VolvoSporter: Another option for you is just to use high impedance injectors. In that way, you don't have to cut into the harness. Just plug in the new injectors and go. That's what I did with a set of Hi-z (high impedance) 42lb hour injectors. Best decision I ever made.

It was a great read and very informative but it would have been amazing if you included how to install brown tops on +t's

As long as we are talking about LH 2.2, it's the same procedure. If OTOH, it's 2.4, then just plug them in and go.
 
240T man: The information you gave VolvoSporter is not correct. Brown tops are low impedance injectors. What that means is if the car doesn't already have resistors (resistor pack), then resistors need to be added. In the case of a +T, the car in question has high impedance injectors. Switching to low impedance means you need to add resistance inline, or in other words, add a resistor pack.

Sorry, I presumed he was talking about the AMM signal line resistors mentioned in the article, not the ballast packs for low-Z injectors.
 
Sorry, I presumed he was talking about the AMM signal line resistors mentioned in the article, not the ballast packs for low-Z injectors.

That's cool mang! No need to apologize. :)

It's important here because people will keep coming back to this thread for information. We don't want people blowin' up their shiz you know? :lol:
 
I have a couple questions i'd like to ask regarding this. If i were to get a pair of chips for my B230FT with LH2.2 (its an '87 744ti) would that negate the need to do this? Would the chips be able to compensate for larger injectors such as the brown tops?

Also i was kinda confused by the pics but i think i've got it now, i think i'll just get the special volvo tool for the test light. Can i just solder in a 300ohm resistor? In the pic you have what i assume to be 3 100ohm resistors. I'd just like to keep the string of resistors to a minumum.

I find it amazing that most people havent invested in a wideband by now. Adjusting boost (safely) on a turbo car almost necessitates having one. I plan on getting one as soon as the exhaust is made on my car.

Im glad i was pointed to this thread, its great that you guys have come up with stuff like this to make things work, and cheaply, too, i might add.
 
another easy ten mintue swap here... no resistors yet, cause im overdrawn, but it runs cool... no idle, wot, or decel issues on a 86 740 turbo wag
 
question i have a 86 240 that i put a 93 b230ft rebuilt engine into and i am running a 740 turbo lh 2.2 in my 86 lh 2.2 harness.
now that being said do i need to run a resistor pack and what exactly is it and can i run brown tops at 15 psi with no resistors?
also do the resistors need to stay there in the engine harness or are they there to just get the air fuel right?

thanks guys
 
question i have a 86 240 that i put a 93 b230ft rebuilt engine into and i am running a 740 turbo lh 2.2 in my 86 lh 2.2 harness.
now that being said do i need to run a resistor pack and what exactly is it and can i run brown tops at 15 psi with no resistors?
also do the resistors need to stay there in the engine harness or are they there to just get the air fuel right?

thanks guys

You do not need a resistor pack if you use high-Z injectors. Try Bosch 0 280 150 756 (Red top, came in Ford Thunderbird 3.8 SuperCoupe, 300cc) or Bosch 0 280 150 785 (Orange top, came in 850 Turbo, 315cc). Additionally, the white-body newer style Bosch injectors, the slim ones, from either an S60 T5 or a Supercharged buick V6 are high-Z as well and are good browntop alternatives.

I no longer recommend running the resistors in the AMM signal line. Just install the injectors and set the base idle.
 
wait wait wait, are you saying that on an LH2.2 car, after installing the browntops, theres no need to run 3 100ohm resistors? Just adjust the idle? Do i also re-adjust the AMM and timing?
 
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