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How to install Brown Tops on LH 2.2!

nextproject said:
wait wait wait, are you saying that on an LH2.2 car, after installing the browntops, theres no need to run 3 100ohm resistors? Just adjust the idle? Do i also re-adjust the AMM and timing?
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Through continued research since the writing of this article, we've found that the 300ohm resistance in the AMM signal line causes crazy timing advance, which in turn causes ping, utterly defeating the purpose of installing the bigger injectors.

So yes, just throw 'em in and adjust the idle - which would involve re-adjusting the AMM.
 
I installed my brown tops in the 89T and I did not mess with anything else...
It runs fine, mayyyybe 1-2 mpg loss
The car actually sounds different with the injectors, The engine seems to have a different tone.
It helped with some ping at higher boost levels..
Should I install a 4bar FPR? I would have to adjust the AMM for sure and what else?
 
I've got a 3" MAF for LH2.2, what benefit will that give me in addition to using brown tops? Just more airflow before maxing out the sensor?
 
I'm just checking my so called browntops as were fitted when I got the other turbo. Missing pintle cap and not brown. Pn is 0280150402. Also 086 is on it. Hassles.

Got home just now and googled it, seems I have 36lb ford injectors, out of the 3.8 v6 and some V8's, but I still don't get why it doesn't have a pintle cap....
 
Last edited:
have a 007-816

also have a 006-015, from a v6 760

will this not be good for boost?

installed 3800 buick injectors today, tuned idle with LC-1, works great.

for alden, no mileage drop, runs at the same 14.7 on a stock 2.2 turbo setup. just tune the idle right with the AMM and you be aight'.
 
DNAsEqUeNcE said:
it'll work fine, the ECU controls open loop, not the AMM
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This makes sense to me, but I'm wondering why it was stated earlier in the thread that the 007 (015) AMM would not allow the ECU to enter open loop. Any more information on that?

I have been unsuccessful in locating an (816) AMM, but I did find a wiring diagram (http://niche.iinet.net.au/VL_Technical/Bosch_MAF_900Kg.pdf) for the AMMs, and it appears that the adjustment screw on the AMM body is just a pot between pin 6 and ground.

This sounds like something that would be pretty easy to do. I am wondering, however, if anyone can take their (816) AMM that they've used successfully and measure the resistance between pin 1 and pin 6, so I can get an idea of what size pot I'll need to use. The 0 280 212 007 (015) that I have sitting in front of me has a fixed resistance of 250Ohms between pin 1-6. I'm hoping that the post-brown-top-install resistance is HIGHER, not lower.
 
Okay, another discovery. I'm not really sure if anyone is interested, but I'm going to post it anyway. It's a forum, the more information the better, right?

I have a spare 0 280 212 007 (015) AMM; the one I just mentioned last post. These are the stock AMMs (to my knowledge) that are found in the LH2.2 motors, only with no adjustment screw for the idle.

Well, that's what I thought at least. I just pulled this one apart, and it turns out that there IS a potentiometer in there, it's just not accessible from outside. This is awesome news for those of us who can't actually find a (816) datecode AMM, as it means we can make adjustments without the external fiddly screw.

It looks as though Bosch wanted to remove the adjustability, but didn't want to actually change the body or the circuit board at all, so they just fitted a blank plug in the hole instead of a screw face plug that engages on the back side with the potentiometer.

I also snapped a couple of pictures with the lid off, but I haven't donated/am too lazy to get a photobucket account right now to upload the pictures. So if you're interested in what the guts of an AMM looks like, send me a PM with your email address and I'll fire them off to you.
 
Great thread. This is unrelated to lh2.2, but the question I have is this. For someone going from an '83 turbo K-Jet to MS soon, I'm assuming I'm going to disregard the resistor pack altogether and can just go with high-Z injectors as a PnP solution (probably orange tops). Is this correct?

Edit: I'm changing from the K-Jet head to a 530, so I'm not limited in my injector installation.
 
ok, so the resistors added in on the first thread, is that the "resistor pack" everyone refers to? and i do still need to add them if i have a turbo right? because they are high imp, and i need low imp? right? which do i need? AGH! this is wearing me out!!!!
 
randomdude said:
ok, so the resistors added in on the first thread, is that the "resistor pack" everyone refers to? and i do still need to add them if i have a turbo right? because they are high imp, and i need low imp? right? which do i need? AGH! this is wearing me out!!!!
Click to expand...

I believe brown tops, like your stock injectors, are low impedance. Straight drop in, no alteration to the resistor packs. If you want to add high impedance injectors you have to remove the resistor packs.

I believe the first thread on this puts a resistor on an AMM lead, but I don't think you need to do that. Just adjust the AMM as stated in this thread to set you base idle.
 
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