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How to install Brown Tops on LH 2.2!

I've got a 3" MAF for LH2.2, what benefit will that give me in addition to using brown tops? Just more airflow before maxing out the sensor?

That's my wondering too...I assumed the resistor trick on the AMM was because the AMM was too small for the injectors, assuming the 3" AMM would remedy that, and not require resistors.
 
i have the 006 amm also. Still no time to switch the turbo and injectors, but i'm also curious what will happen when i dont swap the 3 006 amm when i've done the switch. Will post the results when i've done in though
 
1 year, 1 week and 1 day later, I have news (still not sure if anyone cares, but I DO!)

After installing a wideband, I continued the quest using the 007 (015) AMM and the fiddly screw inside. Turns out this potentiometer DOES work exactly as it does on the 007 (816) AMM that actually has the external screw. I've been able to dial my idle in to around 14.5 - 15:1 (it's adjusted ALL THE WAY lean, but hey, what do I care?), the idle seems stable with only a hint of surging at random times.

A/F ratios under boost, even moderate, are still outrageously rich (1-5psi = 12:1, 5-7psi = 11:1, >7psi = 10:1), but I'd rather be erring on the side of caution. Without any more means of adjusting the AMM, I'm effectively stuck with these A/F ratios, but I am at least temporarily satisfied with a relatively stoich idle.
 
Great write-up & useful information guys - I'm gonna have to bump this back alive so that I can find it next weekend when I put in the brown tops.. - did anyone find the benefits of a 3"AMM from a 960 on 2.2?
 
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What is the max size of injectors you can control with LH2.2 and 007 AMM?
Will it work with 440 cc or bigger injectors?
 
Last edited:
1 year, 1 week and 1 day later, I have news (still not sure if anyone cares, but I DO!)

After installing a wideband, I continued the quest using the 007 (015) AMM and the fiddly screw inside. Turns out this potentiometer DOES work exactly as it does on the 007 (816) AMM that actually has the external screw. I've been able to dial my idle in to around 14.5 - 15:1 (it's adjusted ALL THE WAY lean, but hey, what do I care?), the idle seems stable with only a hint of surging at random times.

A/F ratios under boost, even moderate, are still outrageously rich (1-5psi = 12:1, 5-7psi = 11:1, >7psi = 10:1), but I'd rather be erring on the side of caution. Without any more means of adjusting the AMM, I'm effectively stuck with these A/F ratios, but I am at least temporarily satisfied with a relatively stoich idle.

I just installed brown tops today and have good idle and cruise AFR's but have the same super rich on boost afr's. Stock T3 turned up to about 15psi.

Anyone suggest any solutions?
 
LH2.2 running rich

not the resistor PACKS doug...you gotta add 3 100ohm resistors to the red/blue AMM line on LH2.2 for the browntops, otherwise it runs pig ass rich, or at least it SHOULD...and does for me and ovlov760...and wouldn't a bad FPR make it run pig ass rich? my 760 sure did when its FPR went bad...

Jordan, another thing we didn't think about...could the AMM be going bad? It's something to try at least...but man that whole thing is just f*cked up.

I haven't had the opportunity to actually drive the car yet (still have that one leaky injector) but I did move it around in my driveway as my parents needed yesterday...it runs 1000x better when dead cold. with the 357s, it felt like an ultra-low compression engine for the first couple minutes, especially in the winter...that's 90% gone now.

#19 in this thread.

Yes, it is possible to use bigger injectors...When I was using the 36# brown tops with stock Lh2.2, I added a 330 ohm resistor pack to the line... I then calculated how much fuel I need for my elusive three hundred horse and I went with a set of 55# low impedence injectors from 5-O motorsports. I experimented with a 50 pound fpr from the Dodge Daytona and eventually went back to the 42 pound fpr from Volvo.

I needed 980 ohms on the AMM line just to get the car to idle. It ran with 1010 ohms on the resistor pack ( with no power over 4500) and I let it alone like that for about 4 months...

In August 2005, I started playing with the resistor pack in increments of 3 to 7 ohms and I finally settled on 1027 ohms. Now I get full power with no pings or cut out up to the 6000 rpm red line.

From: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=57416

I'm looking to make 275-300 hp can lh 2.2 do this? If so what chip,amm,ect. Is needed to achieve this? Im not looking for records or anything I want a setup that has been done many times. Thank you I tried searching but didn't know what info was outdated or changed.

Yes! Any number of combos. I did a potentiometer and stock toyota supra injectors (440cc) back in the day, with a diode for fuel cut. Look up the article , its here somewhere. Back when no one did chips for us.
I had proof on a dyno that it works , as far as adjustability wih air fuel,but my net storage went down. I didnt make 300 but it couldve been done.
Now theres chips and many more combos.. Attack your cooling first , get a aluminum radiator, better aluminum intercooler, aftermarket trans cooler and better brakes. Then the power stuff. Thats my suggestion.
Kris Weldy.

From: http://www.turbobricks.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4383321

For browntops (36/37lb) add 300-330 Ohm of resistors to the red/blue AMM line, or use a potentiometer and AFR-meter to find the ideal resistance for your AMM/injector combo.

Mark.
 
Thanks, but I got the impression that the 300 ohm resistor in the amm line was out of favour due to issues with timing advance and detonation?
 
Anyone have any input regarding whether to use resistance on the amm line or not? Can I back the timing off somehow if I add the resistance?
Thanks
 
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