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How to install Brown Tops on LH 2.2!

Anyone have any input regarding whether to use resistance on the amm line or not? Can I back the timing off somehow if I add the resistance?
Thanks
 
Don't put resistors in your AMM line. It causes timing issues and makes your engine ping.
I had to read a little further to discover my previous post was wrong.

Just install the browntops and adjust idle using a AFR-meter or use the 750 ohm led assembly.
 
>>WARNING<<
Several people, including myself, have found old browntops to occasionally leak right around where the brown plastic top meets the metal injector body. BE SURE to check this on the first startup. Don't panic, though. Just get as many as you can, and if you have leaks, find the ones that don't leak.

>If you have a question and need a quick response, please send me a PM!<

Alright, this is pretty easy, but I figured that our newer crowd would appreciate an easy to find write-up on how to do it.

357 injector vs. Brown Top injector.
medium.jpg
medium.jpg


Do you have a Radio Shack part number for those 10 ohm resistors?
This is what greets you when you open the hood:
29362173.jpg


1. Depressurize the fuel rail. This can be done by pulling the fuel pump relay and in-tank pump fuse while the engine is running. Or, you could just let the car sit for awhile (a few days), if you have the time, but you probably don't. Or at least you don't want to wait that long. ;-)

2. Disconnect the injectors. Mark each line with masking tape so you remember which one goes where.

3. Unbolt the fuel rail, and remove any vacuum hoses that may obstruct you when pulling the rail.

The fuel rail and its 3 bolts.
medium.jpg
medium.jpg

medium.jpg
medium.jpg


4. Pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached. Spraying a penetrating oil (ie PB blaster, rost off, or similar) at the base of the injectors and wiggling them a bit will make life a lot easier...but whatever you do, DO NOT let the injectors come out of the rail first - fuel will spill everywhere.

5. With an old dirty rag handy, remove the injectors from the fuel rail. They'll require a good bit of wiggling to get them out. I recommend wrapping the rag around the injector and the fuel rail while doing this to prevent excess fuel spillage.

6. Install the browntop injectors; Make sure all the O-rings are new. Vasoline works wonders for popping them in - but make sure you feel them pop in. If not, they won't seal properly.

7. Reinstall the fuel rail. A nice firm push above each injector will pop them into the manifold nicely. Reconnect any vacuum hoses you had to disconnect, and reconnect the injectors.

Alright, take a deep breath, the "hard" part is over. Also, if you have LH2.4, you're done with the entire proccess. LH2.4 automatically does everything else for you.

==========================================

Now that the browntops are installed, your base idle is off, regardless of how it was before.

You need to either go buy the Volvo special tool part #9995280 for $35, or build it yourself using Radio Shack parts for about $5. I chose the latter. You'll need 7 10ohm resistors and an LED assembly (any color, it doesn't matter, choose what you like).

Build it as shown:
28833918.jpg

The resistors MUST be on the RED(+) lead. The light will not work if you put them on the black(-) lead.

Now you're ready to adjust your base idle.

First, you need to locate this connector, it's on your passenger side fender near the AMM:
medium.jpg


Ground the red/white wire. The idle should drop. Go to the Idle Air Screw on the underside of the throttle body and adjust it(lengthen = faster, shorten = slower) until the idle is ~725 RPM, then disconnect the red/white wire you grounded before. The idle will surge, then settle, which is normal.

Adjusting the Idle Air Screw.
medium.jpg


Now, hook up your test light we built above to the green/white wire. For a lean mixture, the light will be OFF. For a rich mixture, the light will be ON. The light will blink on and off at equal intervals when you're dead on. Adjust the screw on the AMM until the light blinks; counter-clockwise is rich, clockwise is lean.

The screw on the AMM.
medium.jpg


Disconnect the test light and you're done! Enjoy your new found fuel (and more than likely increased boost ;-)).

Do you have a Radio Shack part number for those 10 ohm resistors?
 
So I have a set of T5 blues I want to put in my 745t LH2.2. The resistors or no longer needed at the AMM? Just trying to find a straight answer. Just put them in and adjust the idle at the AMM?
 
>>WARNING<<
Several people, including myself, have found old browntops to occasionally leak right around where the brown plastic top meets the metal injector body. BE SURE to check this on the first startup. Don't panic, though. Just get as many as you can, and if you have leaks, find the ones that don't leak.

>If you have a question and need a quick response, please send me a PM!<

Alright, this is pretty easy, but I figured that our newer crowd would appreciate an easy to find write-up on how to do it.

357 injector vs. Brown Top injector.
medium.jpg
medium.jpg



This is what greets you when you open the hood:
29362173.jpg


1. Depressurize the fuel rail. This can be done by pulling the fuel pump relay and in-tank pump fuse while the engine is running. Or, you could just let the car sit for awhile (a few days), if you have the time, but you probably don't. Or at least you don't want to wait that long. ;-)

2. Disconnect the injectors. Mark each line with masking tape so you remember which one goes where.

3. Unbolt the fuel rail, and remove any vacuum hoses that may obstruct you when pulling the rail.

The fuel rail and its 3 bolts.
medium.jpg
medium.jpg

medium.jpg
medium.jpg


4. Pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached. Spraying a penetrating oil (ie PB blaster, rost off, or similar) at the base of the injectors and wiggling them a bit will make life a lot easier...but whatever you do, DO NOT let the injectors come out of the rail first - fuel will spill everywhere.

5. With an old dirty rag handy, remove the injectors from the fuel rail. They'll require a good bit of wiggling to get them out. I recommend wrapping the rag around the injector and the fuel rail while doing this to prevent excess fuel spillage.

6. Install the browntop injectors; Make sure all the O-rings are new. Vasoline works wonders for popping them in - but make sure you feel them pop in. If not, they won't seal properly.

7. Reinstall the fuel rail. A nice firm push above each injector will pop them into the manifold nicely. Reconnect any vacuum hoses you had to disconnect, and reconnect the injectors.

Alright, take a deep breath, the "hard" part is over. Also, if you have LH2.4, you're done with the entire proccess. LH2.4 automatically does everything else for you.

==========================================

Now that the browntops are installed, your base idle is off, regardless of how it was before.

You need to either go buy the Volvo special tool part #9995280 for $35, or build it yourself using Radio Shack parts for about $5. I chose the latter. You'll need 7 10ohm resistors and an LED assembly (any color, it doesn't matter, choose what you like).

Build it as shown:
28833918.jpg

The resistors MUST be on the RED(+) lead. The light will not work if you put them on the black(-) lead.

Now you're ready to adjust your base idle.

First, you need to locate this connector, it's on your passenger side fender near the AMM:
medium.jpg


Ground the red/white wire. The idle should drop. Go to the Idle Air Screw on the underside of the throttle body and adjust it(lengthen = faster, shorten = slower) until the idle is ~725 RPM, then disconnect the red/white wire you grounded before. The idle will surge, then settle, which is normal.

Adjusting the Idle Air Screw.
medium.jpg


Now, hook up your test light we built above to the green/white wire. For a lean mixture, the light will be OFF. For a rich mixture, the light will be ON. The light will blink on and off at equal intervals when you're dead on. Adjust the screw on the AMM until the light blinks; counter-clockwise is rich, clockwise is lean.

The screw on the AMM.
medium.jpg


Disconnect the test light and you're done! Enjoy your new found fuel (and more than likely increased boost ;-)).

I'm scratching my head here. This states that for a lean mixture the LED will be off, and for a rich mixture the LED will be on. But it then goes on to state that counter-clockwise is rich, and clockwise is lean. If I'm not mistaken turning the POT screw too far counter-clockwise causes the LED to be off, and too far clockwise causes the LED to be on. Which is correct? Counter-clockwise = lean, clockwise = rich?
 
I'm having some issues with this on my 87 740 turbo.

2 things:

- When I try to set idle mixture without any resistance in the amm line I still idle around 14.2 on my wideband with the amm screw turned full lean, does this mean i have a bad amm?

- when i ground the red and white wire on the connector to set base idle, nothing happens
 
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