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I have a 95 940 turbo wagon

K

kitsune faux

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Apr 22, 2024
My required fuel was apparently shut off. Somehow, it is no longer correct.
And I'm trying to reset that. I have everything else that I need Besides the flow rate of my injectors, I do have a part number for my injectors, though No Brand seen on it, however, I do know that they are silver with a teal top.
And the part number being 370760150804
If anybody has seen these injectors and you know what I have be extremely helpful to know what flow rate they have
 
Bosch 0280150804 would be the original light green colored 330cc/min injectors. Maybe you have some sort of cheap knock-off?

If you list your main engine mods, we might be able to guess a typical flow rate.

You could also just experiment -- start with a req_fuel for much bigger injectors than expected, e.g. 750cc/min, and try starting briefly. If it doesn't start, change to 700cc/min, burn, and try starting again. Original NA injectors are ~200cc/min [I don't remember the exact flow], so that's a lower bound.
 
It's ipd turbo cam Gen 1 Ls coils per plug microsquirt ecu with innovative motorsports lambda o2 system it should be srock injectors I have the injector size set to 337 at the moment. With it set at 400, it would start it would run. It would just sit at like a 20 air fuel ratio. And any time you revved it, it would leave a black spot on the On the ground at the end of the exhaust pipe so bad in the area that I bought it from. It was nicknamed the tractor.
 
Can you unplug one injector and measure the resistance across the 2 injector pins? The original Bosch injectors are low impedance (~2.5 ohms) and need a resistor pack to convert them to high impedance so that they'll work with a microsquirt.
 
Reads exactly 2.5ohms I'm unsure if a resistor pack was installed as I am not the owner who did the modifications but I will reach out to the owner who did
 
OK, sounds like something other than the reqfuel setting is going on.

"black spot on the ground" is usually very rich
"just sit at like a 20 air fuel ratio" is either very lean, or a misfire/no-fire is leaving a lot of oxygen in the exhaust

When it idles, is it a good even idle or is it lumpy and irregular?

A few things to try are:
- using the testmodes, try pulsing the injectors and listen/feel to make sure each one is clicking. If no fuel is getting into a cyl, the O2 will go into the exhaust unburnt.
- if you can get it to idle, try a power balance test: unplug one injector at a time and see if they all behave about the same. If you find one that makes no difference, that's a good clue where to investigate further.
- you can also try a relative compression tests: unplug all the injectors and do a "Tooth Log" while cranking. From the log, you can compare the 4 cylinders and see if they all slow down cranking by about the same amount.
 
The car typically like about 14.7 afr with no load on engine it revs fine rich as car be idles smooth but as so as load is put on engine it gets lumpy enough to shake the entire car and lacks the power to move itself up a ~5% grade hill can't build rpm with load on engine exaust smells super rich
 
When was the last time that it ran correctly? What's changed since then?

If it's idling at 14.7 AFR, then it's unlikely that a cylinder is continuously misfiring. Can you post a .zip file of: your .msq configuration and an example .msl or .mlv log file, along with a description of what it's doing, and the problem areas?
 
It ran fine in March afterwards. I took it to a shop and that shop put a connector on the Turbo and it fried the 02 system. We've since replaced the 02 system It short-circuited that system, so bad. There will bear wires showing and the controller itself was fried. Some of the internal components were fried completely. It's still still causing issues. And it's not idling at 14 I'll fire it up and bout 5 or 10 seconds later. Ill show 22.3 air fuel ratio. And whenever there's load on the engine, it will bounce between a 20 and a 27. I am not exactly well versed in files and stuff. When it comes to tuning, this is the first car I've ever had that. I could tune, so I'm not exactly sure how to provide those files.
 
OK, that's much different than I was expecting. The MS setup is probably still good since it was running fine previously. What brand/model O2 sensor are you using now and what was the old one? If you changed brand/model, the calibration setting in microsquirt may need to be changed. The O2 sensor calibration is under: Tools->UnlockCalibrations, then Tools->CalibrateAFRtable
 
Innovative motorsports lambda. O2 sensor and controller system. It's the entire controller sensor in everything Both Before & After was using that, however, the calibrating AF. R table did not happen The controller was calibrated to the sensor and the sensor was set up for wide band which is what the sensor should be
 
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