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Installing Ecodes on your 940 with foglights, step by step

TheJeffers

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2009
Location
Muncie, IN
Use this guide to install Ecodes on your 940 with foglights.

1. Who this guide is for

You will find this guide useful if you've got a set of Ecodes with fog lights that you just want to put into your car and get going. If you are going to run high-power bulbs with relays or some other non-standard setup, this guide is not for you.

2. What you will need
  • A 940 with fog lights integrated into the headlight assembly
  • A pair of Ecode assemblies with corner lights
  • Appropriate connectors (keep reading)
  • Basic soldering supplies (soldering iron/gun, heat-shrink tubing, electrical tape, rosin-core solder)
  • Wire strippers
  • 2x H4 bulbs (I used 55/60W ones from Susquehanna Motorsports)
  • 4x H3 bulbs for fog lights/driving lights
  • 1-2 hours of time

I found it very helpful to have an alldatadiy.com subscription for my car. It's only $20 and may prove worth it if you need to look at wiring diagrams, etc.

The proper connector for the Ecode housing is identical to the radio suppression/electric fan relay connector on 740s and 940s equipped with them. The easiest way to get them is to find a suitable car or two in the junkyard, remove the connector from the relay, and clip out the connector, leaving a generous pigtail.

3. Wiring

Before doing any work on your car, disconnect the negative battery terminal and place it in a Ziploc bag (or similar) so that it cannot ground out on anything in the engine bay.

Step 1: Remove the main headlight bulb and foglight bulb from their housings. Disconnect each bulb from its connector, and set them aside in case you need them again for whatever reason.

Step 2: The main 9003 bulb uses a large black plastic connector. To remove it, simply pull it away from the wire; it should snap off. Clip the foglight connector from the black-and-white and solid black wires leading to it. Remove the soft rubber boot from the headlight branch of the wiring harness.

Step 3: At the end of each wire for the headlight bulb, there will be connectors for the old 9003 style bulbs. Clip each one off its respective wire and discard.

Step 4: Remove the old headlights from the car. There should be five bolts/nuts: two in the fender, two inside the grille that hold an air guide on, and a nut connected to a stud on the core support. Be careful with the nut, as it may have rusted to the stud and will break it upon removal. To remove the corner light and gain access to the fender bolts, push in the white plastic retaining tab on the turn signal and pull the turn signal housing out. Remove the turn signal bulb socket from the housing if you haven't already.

Step 5: The wires for headlight power are as follows, relative to standing at the rear of the car and looking forward:

LEFT HIGH BEAMS: Blue/white
LEFT LOW BEAMS: Solid green
RIGHT HIGH BEAMS: Red/white
RIGHT LOW BEAMS: Green/white
GROUND (both sides): Solid black

Foglight power on both sides is black/white.

Pinout for the connector on the Ecode housing is as follows and is identical on both sides of the car. H = High beam power, L = Low beam, F = Fogs, G = Ground.

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Using a wire stripper, remove a length of insulation from both the headlight wire you're attempting to splice and the wire leading to the corresponding pin on the connector. Use the "Butt Solder" technique as demonstrated here: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm, with the stipulation that you should place a length of heat-shrink tubing on one of the wires before soldering them together.

Perform this step for each wire to be spliced, until each connector has been spliced into the wiring harness. You may want to wrap the wires in electrical tape at this point.

Step 6: Install the H4 and H3 bulbs into your Ecode housings. Replace any protective covers removed in this process.

Step 7: Install the new Ecode housings and connect them using your newly spliced connector.

Step 8: Test high beams/driving lamps, low beams, and foglights. If they all come on as they should, you are finished.

Step 9: Reinstall your turn signal bulb into the top of the Ecode corner lamp housing.

That's it!

Wiring diagram, for reference:

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Post if you have any suggestions/corrections.
 
Last edited:
Question...are the bulbs that you specify in your write-up the ones that actually come with used E-codes pulled from a typical junker in Europe?

Also, I've got some 960 relay connectors but a few of the wires look a little wimpy/skinny. Is there a way to release them from the square connector so I can use heavier gauge wire?
 
OH man its so nice somebody made this.
I'll refer to this for tb'er who get e-codes from me if you dont mind.
 
those pics look familiar ;-)

nice writeup

Yeah, they were really helpful in getting mine on the car, but I couldn't remember who provided them in the first place. Thanks!

Question...are the bulbs that you specify in your write-up the ones that actually come with used E-codes pulled from a typical junker in Europe?

Also, I've got some 960 relay connectors but a few of the wires look a little wimpy/skinny. Is there a way to release them from the square connector so I can use heavier gauge wire?

The wiring/plugs inside the Ecode housings is designed to use H4s and H3s, so yes, the lights I used are identical in form factor to what you would get from a Euro car. H4/H3 refers to a standard bulb type that is made by a number of manufacturers. You might be able to get H4s at your local AutoZone/Advance Auto Parts, but I don't recall them having H3s. I hope that answers your question.

I wouldn't worry about the wiring in the connectors-I just used what came with them. It's not like the headlight wiring is super-heavy in the first place. If you do want to try getting them open, there should be a hinged portion on the outside of each pair of wires that just pops open with a little force. Be careful that you don't break it, though.

OH man its so nice somebody made this.
I'll refer to this for tb'er who get e-codes from me if you dont mind.

Nope, that's why I made it. This info was never centralized before, now it is. :)
 
FCP says they only offer e-code corners that fit non fog cars, anyone know the difference? Or if it's just FCP being silly?
 
FCP says they only offer e-code corners that fit non fog cars, anyone know the difference? Or if it's just FCP being silly?

I believe they're talking about the newer 740's and 940's that don't have the fogs next to the headlights. I had such a 740 and converted it to e-codes by grabbing some 940 head and fog lights and all the hardware and brackets that held them in. Then the e-codes swapped right in...not sure about the older gen 740's like you have in your sig.
 
Oh I am buying a 940, it has ecodes (with fogs) but 1 of the corners is broken so I am trying to figure out what the difference is. Also I found they do offer both corners so I guess it's not an issue but I am still kinda curious
 
yeah the non fog cars have several different brackets and fasteners between the grill and lights. Easily swapped stuff that shouldn't prevent any 740 owner who wants e-codes from doing the conversion.
 
Id be interested in a source too....but I have read that non ecode fog markers can be made to work.
 
I missed the bit about the corners...yep they're different...mainly cause the e-codes have a housing that accounts for the corner lamp with two lamps. I've never tried to modify a stock 940 side marker.
 
Does anyone know the part # of those relay connectors or the name of them? Trying to find a source for the other than the JY.

Thanks - Tim
 
They're really part of the wiring harness, so the jy is the way to go. Easy to find and probably free from LKQ, with your $2 admission fee.
 
On this topic, I noticed that the headlamps on my 940 are connected through a factory relay block immediately forward of the battery.

I'm really curious about this.
 
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