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Is this a factory od seleniod?

Wilford Brimley

Wilford Brimley

Is posting from the grave
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Location
Marysville, wa
I pulled this aw71 from a jy and was wondering if this appears too be a replacement solenoid because I was turning about doing the bypass mod but if this is a newer one I'd assume it works...yes I know I spelled solenoid wrong.

image upload and host

It says K.A.E. on it
 
Pulled from jy...anyway to tell without it in? I may just bypass it anyway I guess the "od button" isn't that important. Also I'm doing the accum mod and have dumped lots of fluid(even after being drained at pnp....I don't even know what amount of tranny fluid I should be looking to use to refill it or what type. I've read threads about how flushing can be bad on higher mile trannys and newer dexrons harden seals and stuff
 
Wilford Brimley said:
Pulled from jy...anyway to tell without it in?
Click to expand...
Some small jumper wires, or just hold it next to the battery.
Base to (-)Neg, touch wire to (+) Pos.
If it clicks, the inner plunger piece is probably moving okay.

Next, test for actual flow.
You'll need some way to apply fluid or air pressure (or suction) to one of the holes on the base.
Mityvac with a pointy tip jammed in the big hole?
Empty Bic pen sealed to the outside of a hole with a wad of chewing gum, and the other end to your mouth with duct tape?
Or whatever you can come up with.
At rest, the passage should be closed and sealed (no flow).
With power, the passage should open, and there should be good flow (for the size).

If no click or no flow, the passage or plunger is likely plugged with metal "dust" from normal trans operation.

Since the default "enabled" mode of the solenoid is energized to keep the passage open, any tiny molecule of steel that wears off the clutch plates or gears will be attracted and trapped by the solenoid's magnetic field. Over time, the buildup of crap jams/plugs the solenoid, and no more OD.
 
MasterBlaster said:
Some small jumper wires, or just hold it next to the battery.
Base to (-)Neg, touch wire to (+) Pos.
If it clicks, the inner plunger piece is probably moving okay.

Next, test for actual flow.
You'll need some way to apply fluid or air pressure (or suction) to one of the holes on the base.
Mityvac with a pointy tip jammed in the big hole?
Empty Bic pen sealed to the outside of a hole with a wad of chewing gum, and the other end to your mouth with duct tape?
Or whatever you can come up with.
At rest, the passage should be closed and sealed (no flow).
With power, the passage should open, and there should be good flow (for the size).

If no click or no flow, the passage or plunger is likely plugged with metal "dust" from normal trans operation.

Since the default "enabled" mode of the solenoid is energized to keep the passage open, any tiny molecule of steel that wears off the clutch plates or gears will be attracted and trapped by the solenoid's magnetic field. Over time, the buildup of crap jams/plugs the solenoid, and no more OD.
Click to expand...

Good stuff thanks!!
 
The solenoid is easy to test. If you're not towing with car, just get the block off plate. Also the trans holds about 8 quarts if completely drained. The torque converter holds about 2 quarts. Check level after filling. Dex 3. I buy fluid from family dollar as they have the lowest price per quart. Walmart/autozone will be $8-10 a quart.
 
Don't use the block off plate. It is necessary to be able to lock overdrive out. Heavily loaded with long grades the lock out comes in handy. Also, you can't completely drain an AW-71. Even if you drain the pan and the converter by tipping it upside down you are only going to be able to put in 2.5-3 quarts of fluid before you run the engine. IOW, don't overfill it. Definitely flush the trans. That's a bunch of BS you are hearing.
 
Replaced aftermarket solenoid, but some KAE stuff is decent/not all of it is junk?

I lock out OD a lot towing or not?the shifts are so lazy on those things and the car gets better mileage locked out of OD in most city/traffic driving below 40-45mph anyway and heats the fluid less, just won?t pass NOX emissions quite as cleanly?

The OD isn?t that strong on these & should mostly be used for light cruise only with the converter unlocked.
Converter locked (if equipped) light boost to pull a gentle interstate grade with the cruise control on can be permissible.
 
If you have a Sam's membership the house brand ATF they sell is pretty decent and a case makes for at least 3 drain and fills on an AW71. I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and then filled it, ran it, drained and filled it for at least 3 times. At the end of this my fluid was coming out the same color it went in. If I did this again I wouldn't even replace the filter. It's just a piece of metal mesh like a screen door. You have to have big chunks of stuff to plug it up, and if you have big chunks, you need a rebuild anyway.

Started out with 4th gear not engaging. After doing this it engages fine. My lockout doesn't work though, but since it's my daughter's car I doubt I'll fix it. She'll never tow.


https://www.samsclub.com/p/prime-atf-12-1-qt/prod22051757
 
^Cleaning the screen off is important. Makes a big difference to get all the gray hosed off the pickup behind the screen snd screen itself clean.

Green book tells you to pump it down on the starter with the plugs out or similar or briefly idling it?

I?ve seen a couple early model AW-55s with a converter drain?would sure be nice like the MBZ & some ZF have not to go thru this ritual of trying to pump it dry as possible and flush the things, but they hold a lot and last a while?
Notwithstanding this, I?m usually able to pump the AWs down and get them to take ~6qt and get the screen & valvebody (or ?control unit? in Volvoshop manual speak?) clean to give the average beat AW another lease on life?
This said, I don?t want to waste fluid & want to get all the gunk out of little problem areas that can become larger problem areas and inspect for leaks anyway?


Up here if the control unit is clean and seals & clutches aren?t burnt on the trans itself they last a long long time.
The hot weather cars the AW failure rate is much higher or fluid bypassing snd not sealing well axrusting the clutches is much more common with shriveled seals and burnt/contaminated fluid & they?ll use more fuel when worn but still shift acceptably?
 
Last edited:
I should clarify.

I wouldn't buy a filter. I'd clean the fliter that's in it. A pan gasket is pretty cheap, or do RTV for the pan at 14.99/hr.
 
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