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It's alive, but not happy

Trans that will hold up to the slicks is in the works now, and from there, yes, slicks are on the list. :)

It also wouldn't hurt if the damn track got a little VHT every once in a while. Friggin redneck track isn't even flat, no prep unless it's a major event. Yes, I am blaming the track for not having a better time, but so do just about every person that runs during the week out there.
Another full night at the track last night, nothing worse than a 14.1 which was my own doing thanks to the guy running the tree. The darn thing performed awesome yet again, and consistent. Wish I'd had enough in me to go for a couple hot laps and see what it would do with short-term trims set, probably would have had a 13.4 or so in it.

Now I really wish I had the 531, slicks and 200-4r.....
Best of the night before I called it quits was 13.59 @ 102.5 but it was finally starting to wake up by the time I got kicked outa the brackets, as temps were dropping.

2 nights, similar times, previous night when I got the 13.55 it was a good 20* cooler as well.
Today's update...bad news, but it is hopefully resolved.

After the last run at the track the oil pressure was down slightly and I had a light knock at cold startup that I didn't have before. Been a month, been taking it very easy on it, until I finally got new bearings and the other misc. stuff.

Pulled the pan today and found these little gems...



Possibly caused by this...

Which is now fixed by this...

Gotta get a fresh drain plug and tap it for a new temp sender. Welded a bung in a spare pan, only to find with 4qts of water, the sensor was still above the level. Once the new drain is done, it'll be time to fire it up and see how the pressure is, and listen for the rod knock.

This was on #1 rod, the rest of them were all spotless. Didn't check the mains, figure they are most likely fine, thought about it after the pan was already back on. The crank journal for #1 looked good, mic'd out the same as #4, no metal transfer oddly enough. Rod end looked fine, didn't have something to measure it with though to confirm. Forged rods so chances are it'll be fine, but we'll see.
I'd say as low as in the *side* of the pan possible would be best location for OT Sender bung. Less affected by CS windage........BTW, oil pan trap door is nice......
That's one of the Ishihara crank scrapers. Very nicely built actually. Full pic's of the bottom of my motor are used on his webpage for advertising. Got those trap doors on both sides as room allows.

Not going with a bung this time around, put the original pan back on since I don't have a welder available to work on this pan. Plan is to put the new sender into a spare drain plug I dug up.

Fun fact...AZ, O'really, and Pep Boys don't stock a 3/4x16 drain plug. Period. 2-3 days out to get one. WTF!

Fired it up, oil temps up to 170ish, still had 2b at idle, 3b at 2k rpm. Granted that is without the oil t-stat open, but even so, prior to I was seeing 1b hot idle with similar oil temps, and 2-2.5b max by 3-4k. Definitely quieter as well, probably since there's no rod slapping around.
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After some miles, the noise at startup is still there, oil pressures haven't dropped at all, probably still pull the pan in a couple months and check on #1 rod bearing, make sure it's still intact. If not, time to check the rod and make sure it's not oval'd. I'm a little curious if the noise I'm hearing is from a scuffed piston with slightly larger clearances than it should have now. They were around .0045 after the last time the motor came apart, to deal with the cylinder wall damage after the piston ring ends butted and scored the walls.
Alas, the end is here.

For LH.

MS2V3 is up and running pretty darn well for a street tune. Power on 91* pump gas is about 80-90% of what it was on LH with E85, and so far none of the driveability issues. Couple of quirks to hammer out on the tune, otherwise....YAY, it's rocking like it should be now! :)
So, highway run to SLO and back, 25mpg cruising at 75mph, 100* heat, AC on. Had some engine temp issues on a couple hills after long pulls in boost but otherwise it did damn well. Starts and drives like a stock LH car, got a little more fine tuning done tonight, should be ready to set and forget pretty soon here. :)

Next up...flex fuel sensor and an E85 tune....
Timing that is too retarded can make it heat up under sustained load like on the big hills. Watch the timing when it's heating up and give it a little more if it will tolerate it and see what happens.
Can't really add more timing in in these spots as we had to pull it due to detonation. Pulled it to where it stopped, then pulled another 2* for safety, and that's only really an issue above about 8-10psi it seems. Timing up in that part of the map is in the 11-20* range depending on RPM.
That's one of the Ishihara crank scrapers. Very nicely built actually. Full pic's of the bottom of my motor are used on his webpage for advertising. Got those trap


I was not aware of their products for the Whiteblocks - I need to get one of their scraper/windage trays for my setup :)
Yeah, I hear ya. The 20* is around 8-10psi is all though. By the time it's at 240kpa it's sitting at around 11-13. Still may scale it back just a little, gotta see how the temps do. It just runs so damned nice with the timing in boost. :)
just found there is a dyno shop 5 minutes from the house, guy knows ms pretty well along with a few others. said on turbo cars he does a flat $450 for a full tune including street and full throttle. found him as I heard a car on a dyno when I pulled in to an empty lot to tweak the fuel map a little. got the tune pretty solid for now I think but its down to the little nuances now. still have some odd sync issues with the kia sensor as well, only when cold.
If he's actually really good at tuning and there's dyno results as backup to the tuning, 450 doesn't seem all that bad.

I'd get all the sensors and MS set up with regards to hardware plans first though.
Yup. MS is already fully setup. Only real quirks are a warmup enrichment issue, just need to add some fuel in, and the VR sensor when cold drops out once or twice, but only cold, and ONLY once or twice. Won't dyno it til the 531 goes back on with big valves.

Guy seemed legit, knew MS pretty well offhand, used to tune Motec, had a Civic hatch on the dyno running AEM, sounded good, didn't smoke during the entire pull (just the normal oil smoke on let-up), and was throwing down 250 to the ground on all motor, no boost from a 2.0. Not too shabby. He also wasn't all high and mighty like some I've talked to, which is a damned good start.

Add to that the fact I already have a decent, quirk-free street tune on it and his job should be a bit easier. :)