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240 Just failed CA smog, high NOx

Walker has a 5 year/50,000 warranty though. Since the new cat was put in, I don't think I even out 2k into it. It's just a daily driver to and from school.
 
Mr. Burrito: what model year is your 240? Automatic or manual?

I wrote up a whole treatise on getting an '83 DL to pass smog a few years ago. Also a history of how the limits have changed over time. Might help in this situation: http://www.dailyturismo.com/2013/09/dtpc-smog-test-making-it-legal.html

0_DTPC_Smog_Test_Lead.jpg
 
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Good luck getting warranty $. The exhaust shop that did mine blew me off when I asked for a warranty and blamed the car.

5 gas analysis is tricky. The 25mph test is actually HALF the load of 15 mph. I see you passed fine at 15mph. And your ignition timing was too far back,so it doesn't look like timing is the issue. You have almost no CO which could mean lean, which also increases nox. Air leaks or injectors could cause a lean condition. You do have the incorrect injectors.
 
It's a 1987 240 DL, manual.

I still have the old single hole injectors that I could slap back on. They may not be as clean as the 850 yellows, but they still work.
 
GeneralBurrito said:
It's a 1987 240 DL, manual.

I still have the old single hole injectors that I could slap back on. They may not be as clean as the 850 yellows, but they still work.
Click to expand...

Ok, I suppose that explains the 724ppm limit for NOx at 25mph then. My reference is early '80s cars which have slightly higher limits. There's no way of looking this up at all, other than comparing notes with other people's test reports.

For an 1983 240 DL w/ manual, here's an illustration of how NOx changed over time (well, up until late 2014 anyway when I made the graph).

DTPC_Smog_Test_Results_Page_3.png
 
Duder said:
Ok, I suppose that explains the 724ppm limit for NOx at 25mph then. My reference is early '80s cars which have slightly higher limits. There's no way of looking this up at all, other than comparing notes with other people's test reports.

For an 1983 240 DL w/ manual, here's an illustration of how NOx changed over time (well, up until late 2014 anyway when I made the graph).

DTPC_Smog_Test_Results_Page_3.png
Click to expand...

I looked over your great write up. So far on the to do list is oil change, set the timing to 10 or 11, plug the diaphragm vacuum line to the ignition box, and drive around town for 20 minutes before getting to the shop and leave the car running in the lot.
 
Duder said:
Ok, I suppose that explains the 724ppm limit for NOx at 25mph then. My reference is early '80s cars which have slightly higher limits. There's no way of looking this up at all, other than comparing notes with other people's test reports.

For an 1983 240 DL w/ manual, here's an illustration of how NOx changed over time (well, up until late 2014 anyway when I made the graph).

DTPC_Smog_Test_Results_Page_3.png
Click to expand...

They lowered the numbers twice. Supposedly they cant anymore but in commifornia they do whatever they want here crazy bastards.

The cut points are visible in an old smog book or books they have, forget the names of them but they are in there. Also the cut points or limits are on the BAR site or they were a few years ago. FYI stick cars have higher cut points than auto cars though iirc.

here are your cut points
https://www.autorepair.ca.gov/pubwebquery/cutpoints/ShowResult.aspx?VLTROWID=19734

Cutpoints main page
https://www.autorepair.ca.gov/pubwebquery/cutpoints/showmake.aspx

Like I said plug the advance and what others here told you to do. You should have a black box over on your passenger federwell for the Chrysler ignition set up. That hose will go to your intake manifold.
 
So is plugging the diaphragm on the black box a temporary thing only for smog?
And should I retard timing to 10 or keep it safe at 11?
And plus, I thought I had advanced timing just a bit by turning my distributor to the left. How did I end up with 6 degrees according to the smog test?
 
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GeneralBurrito said:
It's 12 +/- 2
Click to expand...

Set the static timing at 10 degrees or as close as you can get using a timing light and rotating the distributor. Sometimes it's hard to tell. Verify idle speed too - there is a speed at which that acceptable timing range is defined by Volvo. Then prevent it from advancing by blocking off that vacuum hose to the ignition box with a BB in the end. Plug the hose back in so everything looks Kosher.
 
Duder said:
Set the static timing at 10 degrees or as close as you can get using a timing light and rotating the distributor. Sometimes it's hard to tell. Verify idle speed too - there is a speed at which that acceptable timing range is defined by Volvo. Then prevent it from advancing by blocking off that vacuum hose to the ignition box with a BB in the end. Plug the hose back in so everything looks Kosher.
Click to expand...

I think it's 750 rpm on the plaque if I remember correctly. And my idle is around there, about 700-800 by estimate. And can't I just tape the vacuum hose shut instead of risking getting a BB stuck?

The smog test before I bought the car says 12? but the one I failed at says 6?, which means the timing has been retarded even though back in November, I advanced it to 13?. So I turned the distributor back to it's original spot (easy to tell because it's a clean spot from where the bolt must have been for 32 years) and now the car feels different and pops/crackles a LOT more on deceleration. I'll be checking properly with a timing light that I go to 10-11?. I just plugged both the hose and the diaphragm nipple with electrical tape.
 
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