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240 Just failed CA smog, high NOx

Since I failed the visual inspection because the preheater hose was disconnected and instead used as a second air intake, I put it on and just plugged the heater side of the air box.
 
I know what stage 0 is, and I explained to them that the preheater setup is useless in California and they understood. But I just put it back on for the next check so it doesn't fail inspection again.

They understood before you "explained" it to them.

Put your car back together the not Mickey mouse **** way and it will pass.

Last month my car had high Nox, and high everything ...failed smog test, drove down the street, got a new cat. Came back the next day,...and passed. Done.

Don't make owning an old volvo harder than it needs to be.
 
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Passed;-)
 
Oil change, set timing to 10? from 2 different timing lights (they recorded 12? though), reinstalled the preheater hose, blocked off the hose from sucking in hot air, blocked off the nipple to the black ignition box, replaced 2 exhaust manifold gaskets that were pitted, made sure all exhaust bolts/nuts were tightened, drove for 25 minutes, and left the car running in the lot.

Kept the 850 yellow injectors, but I'm not sure if it would've affected the smog too much.
 
Well done. I used to pass in NJ without changing anything. Just a fresh tune up and oil change. The only visual check they do here is to see if the converter is there. They even accepted the 3" exhaust on the turbo because the converter is there and it passes emissions.

Now all cars older than 95 here have no inspection requirement.
 
96 and newer has the OBD II port so they can stand around and just check the computer. OBD I wasn't standardized enough. Might have to do different things to check each cars computer. So they made the cutoff OBD II.

Here they made the cutoff at model year 2000 for some reason. So even OBDII cars up through '99 have to get the full inspection with dyno testing and gas analysis. Same exact car in a 2000 model year only gets the visual inspection and connection to OBDII.
 

Congrats! Nice job. I have a few friends who always swear by the "get 'er nice and piping hot right before the test" method. It has worked for me too. Fixing the exhaust leaks and getting timing sorted out helped too I'm sure.

Don't forget to un-block that vacuum hose to the ignition control unit - you'll be down on power as it is now.
 
Looks like your exhaust manifold isn't quite sealed up.

Yeah I've taken it off and inspected it, no visual cracks. I got a flat block and sanded down the surface to be as flat as possible, replaced the manifold gaskets, checked other gaskets, and I can still hear the slight tick of an exhaust leak. The 2 rear manifold gaskets that I replaced were really pitted and had some type of liquid on them after removing, are they not torqued enough? I read it's between 15-22 ft-lb, and I always do it to 20 ft-lb with a couple ugga duggas after.
 
I know, I was surprised myself. I heard and partially viewed the entire thing. Car had the sniffer in just like before and was on the dyno. I don't know if the low numbers were from possibly still running lean? The car still drove perfectly fine, if not a little better after doing the ignition timing.

If anything, the car is secretly a Tesla, and the B230F and exhaust noise is just a disguise.
 
I know, I was surprised myself. I heard and partially viewed the entire thing. Car had the sniffer in just like before and was on the dyno. I don't know if the low numbers were from possibly still running lean? The car still drove perfectly fine, if not a little better after doing the ignition timing.

If anything, the car is secretly a Tesla, and the B230F and exhaust noise is just a disguise.

My experience is an over-lean running car will elevate NOx readings. So it looks like it's running fine and maybe you have a really good cat that's burning off everything.
 
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