KwikBrik245's Twin Turbo LS1 '88 744 REbuild: Damaged Goods

[lookforjoe]

Wow, it's been 6 months since my last post. I've done a few things to the car since my last update.

I made up a brace for my rear subframe since I don't want to bend up another BNE unit.


Anyways, that is about all I have for now. Happy holidays!

Good read through your thread.

Any pics of how the BNE frame was bent? I'm assuming the body twisted between the heim joint mount points, based on your bracing?

You are still running a stock diff, just welded?

Happy Holidays to you, also!

 

[KwikBrik245]

I find it kind of amazing that you haven't grenaded the stock diff in that thing yet!

You and I both! haha. The Dana is my "fusible link" in the drivetrain and I'm guessing as soon as I throw at least drag radials on it, it'll blow. I am leaning 8.8 as a upgrade but I am also toying with the idea of a 9". For ease of maintenance and all.

 

[KwikBrik245]

Good read through your thread.

Any pics of how the BNE frame was bent? I'm assuming the body twisted between the heim joint mount points, based on your bracing?

You are still running a stock diff, just welded?

Happy Holidays to you, also!

I'll have to look for the pics. And yes it bent between the joint mount points. the lower torque arm moved inboard and the bolt was hitting the driveshaft as soon as I'd give it the beans. Ben was awesome and helped me out a bit with reinforcing it. The subframes definitely weren't engineered with drag racing in mind, but they are definitely a great platform to modify for my purposes. I have 1"x2" rectangle tubes on each side inline with the heim joint bolt holes, as well as that flat stock brace that runs under the exhaust. That one is just for added insurance. The torque rods are holding up very well but I have been thinking about getting a set of BNE's upgrade units.

The axle housing, ring & pinion are factory but I run a Yukon Grizzly locker. Their housing is pretty beefy compared to the one.


Happy holidays to you and yours.

 

[lookforjoe]

Hope all is well

Do you recall if you flared the PS pressure line & used 6AN tube sleeve for this junction?

 

[KwikBrik245]

Hope all is well

Do you recall if you flared the PS pressure line & used 6AN tube sleeve for this junction?

You nailed it. and a male to male 90* Happy New Year!

 

[KwikBrik245]

I thought I already posted a video of my best pass for the '22 season but I never even uploaded it to YT. Well here it is. Fingers crossed for low 11s or high 10s this year

 

[KwikBrik245]

Today begins the brake system upgrades. Its nice not having a brake booster taking up all that room

 

[lookforjoe]

Today begins the brake system upgrades. Its nice not having a brake booster taking up all that room

What's going in to act as a servo/booster?

 

[KwikBrik245]

What's going in to act as a servo/booster?

Right now I am planning on a manual Wilwood setup. To keep everything simple and all

 

[lookforjoe]

Right now I am planning on a manual Wilwood setup. To keep everything simple and all

How's that going to work out given your power/weight ratio? My X1/9 has no booster - I added dual tandem MC's on that - I'd prefer to have the booster than not.

 

[KwikBrik245]

How's that going to work out given your power/weight ratio? My X1/9 has no booster - I added dual tandem MC's on that - I'd prefer to have the booster than not.

I will be sizing the master appropriately as well as figuring out a way to adjust my ratio. If that doesn't work I'd like to find a 16v pancake booster to try out

 

[KwikBrik245]

Pulled the trans again in the hopes of figuring out my problems. I suspect the input shaft isn't slowing down due to runout in the bellhousing. I will be checking all of that as well as getting a far superior clutch setup than the amazon units I have been using . When I had the t56 upgraded I changed from a full face disk to a 6 puck. I just slapped it in to make a track day and the "break-in" was about 100mi. Clearly the clutch never had a chance to bed in properly but she never slipped lol. Anyways it is hard to shift into gear when the engine is running, and reverse is almost impossible to get to. The trans shifted fine before I pulled the engine for the build, but I didn't check for runout because none of those parts changed. And here we are.

I am looking at the Tilton twin disc or maybe the Mantic unit. Either way I will be getting the Tilton release bearing for adjustability. Oh and I shaved almost 2lbs off the trans by deleting the CAGS and Reverse lockout solenoids. $60 shipped for both and the reverse lockout plug came with a softer spring if you are equally as soft . The stiff spring is at least half as stiff as the solenoid so you don't have to two hand the shifter to force through it. Once the trans is back in I will finish the brake upgrade I will upgrade the rear suspension to poly bushings where I don't already have heim joints

 

[KwikBrik245]

Update!!!!

So I have been trying to pin down my shifting issue for a bit and I have finally figured it out. After lots of reading talking with colleagues I found a burr on the transmission mounting surface that measured high at 0.009" I filed it down and got that back into spec. Next I checked the engine block which was good. Then I read an article about aftermarket swap pans interfering with the bellhousing. Sure as hell my oil pan moved rearward when I installed it during the engine build. After seeing that Holley said the bellhousing bolting to the oil pan is only structural with an automatic, I called to confirm. They just filed down flange on the back of the oil pan so that they had at least 0.005" clearance.

Next step is to file that pan down as I wont be pulling the engine before the season starts and get me back into spec.
Max spec for parallelism for a t56 is 0.005".
The burr was +0.005"
Bellhousing was +0.016"
Total was +0.025"

5x more than max spec (if you can't math) is more than likely my culprit