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KwikBrik245's Twin Turbo LS1 '88 744 REbuild: Damaged Goods

KwikBrik245 said:
Wow, it's been 6 months since my last post. I've done a few things to the car since my last update.

I made up a brace for my rear subframe since I don't want to bend up another BNE unit.


Anyways, that is about all I have for now. Happy holidays!
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Good read through your thread.

Any pics of how the BNE frame was bent? I'm assuming the body twisted between the heim joint mount points, based on your bracing?

You are still running a stock diff, just welded?

Happy Holidays to you, also!
 
Harlard said:
I find it kind of amazing that you haven't grenaded the stock diff in that thing yet!
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You and I both! haha. The Dana is my "fusible link" in the drivetrain and I'm guessing as soon as I throw at least drag radials on it, it'll blow. I am leaning 8.8 as a upgrade but I am also toying with the idea of a 9". For ease of maintenance and all.
 
lookforjoe said:
Good read through your thread.

Any pics of how the BNE frame was bent? I'm assuming the body twisted between the heim joint mount points, based on your bracing?

You are still running a stock diff, just welded?

Happy Holidays to you, also!
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I'll have to look for the pics. And yes it bent between the joint mount points. the lower torque arm moved inboard and the bolt was hitting the driveshaft as soon as I'd give it the beans. Ben was awesome and helped me out a bit with reinforcing it. The subframes definitely weren't engineered with drag racing in mind, but they are definitely a great platform to modify for my purposes. I have 1"x2" rectangle tubes on each side inline with the heim joint bolt holes, as well as that flat stock brace that runs under the exhaust. That one is just for added insurance. The torque rods are holding up very well but I have been thinking about getting a set of BNE's upgrade units.

The axle housing, ring & pinion are factory but I run a Yukon Grizzly locker. Their housing is pretty beefy compared to the one.


Happy holidays to you and yours.
 
Hope all is well

Do you recall if you flared the PS pressure line & used 6AN tube sleeve for this junction?

index.php
 
lookforjoe said:
How's that going to work out given your power/weight ratio? My X1/9 has no booster - I added dual tandem MC's on that - I'd prefer to have the booster than not.
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I will be sizing the master appropriately as well as figuring out a way to adjust my ratio. If that doesn't work I'd like to find a 16v pancake booster to try out
 
Pulled the trans again in the hopes of figuring out my problems. I suspect the input shaft isn't slowing down due to runout in the bellhousing. I will be checking all of that as well as getting a far superior clutch setup than the amazon units I have been using :LOL:. When I had the t56 upgraded I changed from a full face disk to a 6 puck. I just slapped it in to make a track day and the "break-in" was about 100mi. Clearly the clutch never had a chance to bed in properly but she never slipped lol. Anyways it is hard to shift into gear when the engine is running, and reverse is almost impossible to get to. The trans shifted fine before I pulled the engine for the build, but I didn't check for runout because none of those parts changed. And here we are.

I am looking at the Tilton twin disc or maybe the Mantic unit. Either way I will be getting the Tilton release bearing for adjustability. Oh and I shaved almost 2lbs off the trans by deleting the CAGS and Reverse lockout solenoids. $60 shipped for both and the reverse lockout plug came with a softer spring if you are equally as soft ;). The stiff spring is at least half as stiff as the solenoid so you don't have to two hand the shifter to force through it. Once the trans is back in I will finish the brake upgrade I will upgrade the rear suspension to poly bushings where I don't already have heim joints
 

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Update!!!!

So I have been trying to pin down my shifting issue for a bit and I have finally figured it out. After lots of reading talking with colleagues I found a burr on the transmission mounting surface that measured high at 0.009" I filed it down and got that back into spec. Next I checked the engine block which was good. Then I read an article about aftermarket swap pans interfering with the bellhousing. Sure as hell my oil pan moved rearward when I installed it during the engine build. After seeing that Holley said the bellhousing bolting to the oil pan is only structural with an automatic, I called to confirm. They just filed down flange on the back of the oil pan so that they had at least 0.005" clearance.

Next step is to file that pan down as I wont be pulling the engine before the season starts and get me back into spec.
Max spec for parallelism for a t56 is 0.005".
The burr was +0.005"
Bellhousing was +0.016"
Total was +0.025"

5x more than max spec (if you can't math) is more than likely my culprit :LOL:
 
I've been working on my manual brake conversion recently. I made an adapter plate out of 1/4" 6061 Aluminum and some splined carriage bolts. Pictured is v.2, I made the OD a little bigger to cover up the ring that the booster left in the paint. I may make a 3rd version with extra holes to change pedal ratio if needed. Front suspension is disassembled and ready for paint, bushings, and some Koni's from BNE.
 

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This week I stripped and painted the control and stay arms with SEM Trim Black, as well as installed some new bushings. Let me tell you, they were tired. As far as Shocks/Struts go... I may not end up running Konis if I can find something without a shorter travel but are still double adjustable.

I am also looking for a turn signal bulb socket so if you know where I can get a new one, lmk
 

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Sure has been awhile since I posted. A lot has happened since May. I got married, I finished the manual brake conversion, got to run the car a few times, and even spent some time in Florida (It was ok). Oh and I was able to get a shot at a burnout in front of the wedding venue. Would've been nice to get more smoke but I only had one shot. No brakes and tires spinning 150' out.

I've been babying the car with the new clutch as far as launches go and recently the factory trailing arm bushings and axle shell bushings have started to let go making the car a little squirrelly at the top end. I have some poly units on the way and I just bought some Nitto drag radials. I'm hoping to get deep into the 11's before the track closes for the season. Wish me luck.

Wedding Day Burnout

100mph Flyby
 

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KwikBrik245 said:
I have 1"x2" rectangle tubes on each side inline with the heim joint bolt holes, as well as that flat stock brace that runs under the exhaust. That one is just for added insurance. The torque rods are holding up very well but I have been thinking about getting a set of BNE's upgrade units.
Click to expand...

For reference, all the subframes come with the additional bracing standard now... I haven't seen any issues since that started.
 
blkaplan said:
For reference, all the subframes come with the additional bracing standard now... I haven't seen any issues since that started.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Saturday I will be going for personal bests at the track. I will punish the hell out of it for scientific purposes of course.
 
Well. The car and I finally made it into the 11s. I trapped a 11.81" @ 130.13mph Saturday at the charity race. I knew I ran a good pass, but I didn't expect a 11. I am still on 225/50r16 Yokohama all seasons too. I may take it to the track one or two more times this season, but I met my goal for the season so I wont be taking any chances, Plans for this winter include: Drag radials, Holley Dominator, Engine teardown/Inspection, and assorted cosmetic work. I am car #740 on the time slip.
 

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