Kyle's orphan 220 amazon wagon

[stick70]

Here's a little detail on the prep work as well that lead up to the trip.

When I had the trans out to repair the cracked tailshaft housing I installed the final hard piece that will enable me to have heat in this car. The 960 has a very specific water neck I've been hoarding for years now. The installation required trans removal so I was just waiting on the right time.

This a little idea of how tight it was to get it in there too...much cussing was required.

I also was determined to get a headliner in this thing too. I didn't have time to strip all of the awful old sound deadening off, but I knew putting this up I would redo it in the future anyways. I will have to at some point paint the window sills etc, and this can't be done with the headliner in.

Where I started:

Layout and ironing out package wrinkles:

Threaded through the bows and hanging:

Finished:

The way I did it was just to use a plastic putty knife, then you literally just start stuffing it up into the groove where the little retention teeth are. There are plastic strips front and back that fit into separate channels, then you just keep stuffing it up until tight.

(Mostly) prepped and ready to go:

 

[stick70]

I mean maybe. The T5 is a rattly box unless it's behind a 6 or an 8.

I fully agree with you. This time though I'm dealing with a progressive vibration that increases with engine speed, not a ~3k rpm vibration like the b230. It's strange. The clutch and flywheel were match balanced a long time ago so that's not it. I know it could use softer mounts anyways though, the dash buzzes, the floor buzzes, etc etc.

Aside from that though it does make all the normal t5 noises

 

[oldschoolvolvo]

bump for a cool build, how's this car running?

 

[propav8r]

Last I saw, he's using it as a farm truck.

 

[stick70]

No updates to this. I have put in a couple of door seals but that's about it. The trans is cracked again in the tailshaft behind 5th gear so I haven't been driving it until I can figure that out.

The real activity though is in planning. What next?

Well...honestly there are two options that I see to fix the issues I have with the car.

Issue #1
The front geometry sucks, and I really never liked having to resort to flipping the lower ball joint for ride height. It handles fine, but not as well as I'd really like it to. The reason for this was ultimately time/skill/fab equipment, but what's in the car now is just kinda meh.

Issue #2
After having this thing built and driving for what, 4 years? I'm just not happy with the NVH in the cabin from the engine, trans, mounts, etc.

So how do these things get fixed?

Option #1
Cut the car up again and make it lay rocker aired out.
This would happen at the same time as the front end rebuild, and I can make the geometry whatever I want starting from scratch. However, a lot has to happen for it to actually sit on the ground. Minor things of course, like new exhaust, notch the cargo floor, etc. But also the engine has to move up an inch or two, and let's not gloss over making a subframe and front suspension from nothing. Which I've never done before.

Option #2
Take the air ride off and go back to traditional suspension.
I have a parts car I can steal the front end out of to rebuild either with a lowering spring or a coilover setup. The rear a coilover will actually bolt in with no issue, so that's not even a concern.

Bonus to this is that I could take all of the expensive air ride management stuff and throw it at my '60 Cadillac, which makes it extremely tempting honestly. This option is a ton less work.

Both of these options would involve some sort of steering rack swap, and both of these options would involve me changing the engine mounts, maybe seeing about hydraulic 960 mounts. Doubt they fit though. I'd also update the wheel package, because of course I would.

Anyway, that's where I am with the thing. As it sits, I can go out there any day and hit the key and fire it up. The issue is though, I rarely do.

Oh yeah, it needs a back seat bad, I gotta get on that.

 

[MikeJr.]

I think a mustang II front suspension would be the way to go. I've been eye balling this kit https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Overs-p51209593 for years and think its the best option overall. He also has very detailed instructions on how to measure and set one up. Sh!t tons of off the shelf options for bolt ons for it too.

I think the hardest/not hard part would be putting a piece of frame rail section in the front rails eliminating the arch, that way you have something strong to weld too. To bad you don't live closer otherwise Id help you

 

[stick70]

I've been brainstorming something like this, and it's probably the smartest thing honestly.

 

[Texas240]

I think a mustang II front suspension would be the way to go. I've been eye balling this kit https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Overs-p51209593 for years and think its the best option overall. He also has very detailed instructions on how to measure and set one up. Sh!t tons of off the shelf options for bolt ons for it too.

I think the hardest/not hard part would be putting a piece of frame rail section in the front rails eliminating the arch, that way you have something strong to weld too. To bad you don't live closer otherwise Id help you

I have the welder series in my 79' 242GT right now.

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[stick70]

I really think this may be the move. Making the cross member smaller will also make engine removal a whole bunch easier. Plus rack and pinion, plus I can locate the height where I want with correct control arm angles. Plus the rear end is already redrilled 5x4.5, it would then be 5x4.5 all around.

 

[Harlard]

You could also make the 242 run.

Here's an idea: make my 242 run, then drive it for motivation.

 

[stick70]

LMAO. I'm working on that in my mind, and actually I'm scheming to update the wheels on it.

Because that's a bigger priority over running of course.

 

[Stiggy Pop]

LMAO. I'm working on that in my mind, and actually I'm scheming to update the wheels on it.

Because that's a bigger priority over running of course.

hey it's me!

 

[Texas240]

I really think this may be the move. Making the cross member smaller will also make engine removal a whole bunch easier. Plus rack and pinion, plus I can locate the height where I want with correct control arm angles. Plus the rear end is already redrilled 5x4.5, it would then be 5x4.5 all around.

It was super easy to figure out. I bought the shortest cross member and had them weld it up. The conversion from CA to US was amazing. I narrowed the cross member and welded the sucker in. The mounting for the A-arms are some what welded in but need some tweaking.

Its a great setup and the mustang II steering rack has a better ratio than the stock 240 one.

 

[stick70]

Super good to hear, just the reassurance makes me feel better about it.

 

[stick70]

Many of you already know, but I have started a youtube channel, and to kick it off I decided to feature this car.

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[Stiggy Pop]

have to watch this later when I'm done with work... but I think you're supposed to make the thumbnail with you making a surprised face pointing at the car to please the algorithm

 

[stick70]

LMAO

 

[dl242gt]

Thanks for the video. That is a great job on that build and that looks like a hoot to drive. That's a great power level. Lots of fun without the car being unbalanced when using big power all the time.