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Kyle's orphan 220 amazon wagon

I'm so happy my 220 is still alive! I really miss that thing. That B18 was daily driven in the '65 544 until just a month or so before you bought it. It's a very good running engine. Went on several 500+ miles trips with that B18. I'll definitely be keeping up with this thread. And if you're ever selling it, you know who's buying.
Haha yep! Still have big plans for this thing! I got the B18 running not long ago just off of spare carbs and a gas can. It seems solid and looks super clean inside.

Believe it or not I still have this thing. And (gasp) it does occasionally get worked on! Nothing huge though. I didn't start on it before because I really wanted a shop of my own before I took on a project of this magnitude, and while my dad is nice enough to let me work in his, blowing an entire apart in it was not an option.

The direction on this is still the same as before. I'm swapping in a N/A 5 cylinder with ITBs. I think I'm going with a TKO trans or similar, and a 1031 rear end that I have laying around. On top of that I'll throw in a MSPro or similar to get some EFI action going. It doesn't have to be super fast, but it does have to sound mega cool. That's the primary goal.

Time wise I'm hoping to have the drivetrain swapped in and reliable in a year. I really want to take this thing cross country and sleep in it along the way. So the media blast and paint will be put off, but I'm still going to go ahead and fix the big rust and the crash damage. Might as well really.

Anyways. Lately I've evaluated the quarter panel situation...and it isn't great. They both need replaced.


All the brown is filler. And it's DEEP. This thing was side swiped when it was rear ended apparently. So out comes the sawzall.


The green wagon I got a while back is horribly rusty, but its a really straight car above the rocker panels. This is the drivers quarter, and it looks really good. I'll just have to patch a small area under the tail light.

I'm waiting for a friend to help me out with the actual swap onto the car, but I did get a few things done today. I started with cutting out the crappy trailer hitch that was on this thing. It was torch cut and stick welded angle iron...welded straight to the bumper brackets. A few minutes with the angle grinder and it was free.


Here's an idea of the fab that was done previously on this thing...thats angle iron as a new shock mount.


While the car has lots of surface rust underneath, its incredibly solid. The front floors don't even have any pin holes, just the rears need replaced.


I ended the day by yanking out the B18 that was in it. Hopefully soon I can get a whiteblock to start fabbing mounts etc up on.


Stay tuned...or don't, this could take a while.
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I'm so glad you're still working on this. I have too many projects and I know how life goes. It's really easy to forget about cars lol
More small updates.

While there isn't much huge rust in the car, there are several small holes in the fenders etc. that I'm addressing.


I sanded down the green tailgate for a quick and dirty coat of white paint also. It doesn't have to be great, when the thing is painted I'm going to use the blue tailgate that I showed earlier in the thread. You never know what you're going to find though..this green one appeared to be free of filler, but after sanding I found where it used to have an overdrive badge.


Here it is all one color, I used Duplicolor universal white in a rattle can. I think it matches decent for what I'm going for here.


Next up is quarter work, I have to fill this nasty hole I found under the drivers rear window at the same time. I'll just section it out of the green car and weld it in.


I also found this in the car, I think its appropriate. Progress is being made I swear.

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Bump! I fixed most of the image links in this thread so it's actually worth looking at again.

I've been at work on the car doing a fair amount of sheet metal work when I have time. I fixed the hole in the drivers rear window, and I've got the drivers quarter panel cut out and tacked up. There was some crash damage in the substructure that I had to take care of first but it wasn't bad at all.




I've also pulled the fuel tank out and started fitting my baffles and fuel pump sending unit. I'm using a fuel pump hanger out of a 1992 Honda Civic. I got the idea from some old dudes on a Cadillac forum, apparently their fuel tanks are super shallow like mine is. Bonus, the Honda unit only costs like $80. I threw an Aeromotive stealth pump on there, and it'll be finished with a couple of bulkhead AN fittings and a fuel cell rollover valve for the vent.


That ring I cut out on a waterjet machine, I'll just use a simple gasket to seal it all up. Here's a couple of shots to show the baffling and the pump position.



The sock sits pretty much dead nuts center in the fuel tank. The ribbing in the bottom of the tank will allow the fuel to travel up and into the baffle.


I've since welded the mounting flange in the tank, and it has studs pressed into it to allow for easy mounting. After I get all of the dents out of the bottom of this thing I'll clean and seal it with a POR fuel tank sealer kit. That'll take care of any pin holes from rust or welding as well.

I've been putting my shop 2x4 to use as well. The front end of this thing was bashed in a solid 2 inches before. I actually managed to hammer on it enough to get the grilles and hood to line up half ass decent.


I've almost got all the stuff I need to sit the engine in the bay and see what all I need to cut in the trans tunnel area. I've got a rusty p1800ES on standby that will serve as a donor for a new tunnel to accomidate the T5 trans.
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Nice progress man

Thanks! There's been more lately.

I got the other quarter on but I'm working on making a panel for it, so it hasn't been put back on yet. I had to cut quite a bit bigger of a section out of it to get all the crash damage.

I finally pulled my engine out of the barn and got started on the engine swap as well. It's dirty as all hell but it was all sealed and is awesome looking on the inside. The barn has a dirt floor :roll:.

Threw that in this weekend, and I've been working on getting the tunnel cut up and everything massaged to fit.

There's plenty of room on the exhaust side, but as with other's 122 whiteblock swaps, accessory room is limited. I doubt I'm going to be thinking about the possibility of air conditioning anymore. Intake room is great though, I'm still going to run ITBs. I'm moving the master cylinders inside the car to give me more room for runners and air filter.


Another reason I'm swapping in different pedals is that the bellhousing is going to occupy a lot of the space that the throttle used to...and it's damn close to the heater box as well.



I've got both a p1800es and a 244 I can cut the tunnels out of, so I'll see what works best there.

Tonight I got the trans in position so I could check out shifter position. I was really worried it would be horrible and I'd have to try and move the engine farther forward but it actually looks like it will work out nicely.


I'm motivated now and things are finally starting to move along.
Thanks guys!

Watching both 5 cyl swaps as I am considering this for my P1800

I actually just got done cutting a tunnel out of a P1800ES for this car. The bell housing doesn't fit in the tunnel but the trans fits no problem.

I'll try and get some more pictures up soon. I'm fitting pedals now and gauging where the tunnel is gonna sit. Also fitting the radiator, engine mounts, and pulling the rear out of the aforementioned ES. I've got a triangulated 4-link kit on the way for that.
In progress update but an update none the less.

I don't have any pictures of the actual rear end I used but you can use your imagination. Plus it's nasty still. It came out of this though:
Behold, the worlds nastiest 1800ES.




I got the tunnel out of it too. Part of me felt bad, but this thing is seriously rusty. Plus there isn't much left on it, it's been a parts car for a long ass time. Low miles though at 87k.

Here's the 4-link kit I bought for it:


It wasn't cheap, but this was one of the only ones I found that had rubber bushings instead of heim joints. Ridetech makes it. I really like the triangulated ones so I can run really tight fender clearance. The shocks will mount behind the rear end where the springs were on the factory trailing arms.

I ordered a set of these as well:


They're made by U.S. Wheel, 16x7 et12, 4x4.5. I'll end up with spacers in the front and adapters in the rear but whatever, it'll be fine. Plus they are only like $130 each. I'm planning on a 205-45-16 tire. The only downside is the damn things are back ordered from the manufacturer, so the 4-link install will have to wait.

The radiator has also been in progress. I ended up with a Griffin radiator that I shamelessly stole from lloyddobler who shamelessly stole it from andrewnance. I really didn't want to make a radiator and this is the best size one you can find on summit.


And it don't fit bad. I am going to seal the front of it with some steel sheet. I made a first piece but my angles were wrong so I don't have much to show other than the template. :doh:


Worked on sorting out the pedal position also. I bought a Tilton forged aluminum pedal set. They will move the master cylinders inside the car, and also use a balance bar so I can adjust bias F->R. Still not sure on front brake direction, but the rears will be stock 1800 stuff. Nice doesn't even get close to the quality on these things. The pedals themselves are adjustable in X and Y axes plus the base is adjustable for stroke. I chose them over the wilwoods for that reason. Plus wilwood doesn't offer an accelerator pedal.


The frame will be triangulated from above, they're just chillin' for right now until the tunnel is welded. The firewall is re-enforced with 3/16" plate.


I've been brainstorming an alternator situation also. A lot of the hot rod guys on the interwebz talk of the small size of the Denso style alternators, and I wanted something around 100A since I plan to have this thing on air suspension. I ended up with a '98 Jeep Cherokee unit, and it fits awesome. The Volvo one would only wedge in place, this leaves room for belt adjustment. Just look at the difference in size. An added bonus is the pulley will take the same size belt as the harmonic balancer, there was some serious internet picture scrutiny involved there.



Tonight's work revolved around the driver's side engine mount. It will be incorporated into the alternator mount also, as lloyddubler did. I'm making it out of the same 3/16" plate I used on the firewall. It's a bit long in the front as I don't know the alternator's final spot, but I can cut that later. I'm using 240 passenger side mounts mounted level with the chassis. They'll sit just forward of the cross member similar to how the stock 122 ones are.


Hopefully tomorrow night I can tack it together and get it in it's final position. Right now mounting the engine, trans, and rear are the priorities. Everything else is just making room around them.
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